91 Gt
December-1st-2001, 01:54 PM
#1
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91 Gt
I'm looking at buying a 91 Protege GT. I need something more reliable then my RX-7 
The guy says it needs a new head gasket, because a garage told him it needs one.
Now it doesn't appear to be burning coolant(from a quick sniff and look), so i'm guessing it may be a leak between cylinders? BTW its a 1.8L DOHC.. (I don't know if the GT model was sold in the US at all, or maybe under a diff name) How often do the head gaskets go on these motors, and whats usually the problem?
What else should I look for on this car that is a common problem on the 1st gen proteges?
My brother has a 94 with the 1.8L SOHC and hasn't had any problems, except when it was stored improperly for 4 months (issues with brakes). My mom also has a 97 1.8L DOHC .
Ohhhh one last question
Is the 1.8L DOHC in the 91 GT the same as the one in my moms car?
The guy says it needs a new head gasket, because a garage told him it needs one.
Now it doesn't appear to be burning coolant(from a quick sniff and look), so i'm guessing it may be a leak between cylinders? BTW its a 1.8L DOHC.. (I don't know if the GT model was sold in the US at all, or maybe under a diff name) How often do the head gaskets go on these motors, and whats usually the problem?
What else should I look for on this car that is a common problem on the 1st gen proteges?
My brother has a 94 with the 1.8L SOHC and hasn't had any problems, except when it was stored improperly for 4 months (issues with brakes). My mom also has a 97 1.8L DOHC .
Ohhhh one last question
Is the 1.8L DOHC in the 91 GT the same as the one in my moms car?
December-2nd-2001, 11:57 PM
#2
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That head gasket should'nt have blown. I know plenty of Honda guys that have blown gaskets because they over-revved it. They go all the way past redline looking for power cuz their engine's still giving it... I do it sometimes on my Civic
... On a Protege, there should be no reason to be over revving it since our engines stop giving us anything after 5500rpm. If he blew the gasket, it's because he drove like a dumbass or made a BIG mistake. My 2 cents...
... On a Protege, there should be no reason to be over revving it since our engines stop giving us anything after 5500rpm. If he blew the gasket, it's because he drove like a dumbass or made a BIG mistake. My 2 cents...
December-3rd-2001, 12:00 AM
#3
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Also, I think that in 90 & 91, the GT was equivalent to the LX, but that after that, the SE took over for the GT (even though there was a 90-91 SE that was SOHC) and still was equivalent to the US-Spec LX. That is my understanding. Don't know how accurate it is.
December-3rd-2001, 03:45 PM
#4
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Location: Goldsboro, North Carolina
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Coolant sensor
Another little problem on 1st gens is the coolant sensor. The whole deal is kind of a mystery, but for some reason I've heard of more than a few 1st gens just idling crappy and dying at low revs because of this. Mazda doesn't seem to know why it does this, but whenever the part is replaced the problems go away. It's only about $40 U.S. so it's not really a big deal. I'm having that problem right now, so I'm going in to have that and my timing belt replaced on Wednesday and I'll fill everyone in on it if it fixes my idle probs.
December-3rd-2001, 11:04 PM
#5
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Originally posted by 90&00 Protege
The engine is exactly the same as the 1991-95 Ford Escort GT, 1992?-93? Ford Escort LXE, and 1991-1994? Mercury Tracer LTS. The engines used in the 1995-98 Protege and 1999-2000 Protege, though related, are listed as having 3 less horsepower, and have some other minor changes...but are all the same block.
The engine is exactly the same as the 1991-95 Ford Escort GT, 1992?-93? Ford Escort LXE, and 1991-1994? Mercury Tracer LTS. The engines used in the 1995-98 Protege and 1999-2000 Protege, though related, are listed as having 3 less horsepower, and have some other minor changes...but are all the same block.
December-3rd-2001, 11:09 PM
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Re: Coolant sensor
Originally posted by AiR_SiK
Another little problem on 1st gens is the coolant sensor. The whole deal is kind of a mystery, but for some reason I've heard of more than a few 1st gens just idling crappy and dying at low revs because of this. Mazda doesn't seem to know why it does this, but whenever the part is replaced the problems go away. It's only about $40 U.S. so it's not really a big deal. I'm having that problem right now, so I'm going in to have that and my timing belt replaced on Wednesday and I'll fill everyone in on it if it fixes my idle probs.
Another little problem on 1st gens is the coolant sensor. The whole deal is kind of a mystery, but for some reason I've heard of more than a few 1st gens just idling crappy and dying at low revs because of this. Mazda doesn't seem to know why it does this, but whenever the part is replaced the problems go away. It's only about $40 U.S. so it's not really a big deal. I'm having that problem right now, so I'm going in to have that and my timing belt replaced on Wednesday and I'll fill everyone in on it if it fixes my idle probs.
...I guess it's prolly worth having checked, though, to be on the safe side...
December-3rd-2001, 11:14 PM
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Originally posted by PseudoRealityX
umm, if there is no power after 5500 rpm, how come mazda rates the engine at 125hp at 6500rpm? Most dyno plots put peak hp at 6000, or about 6400-6600 with the RX-7 VAF swap, a 60 dollar upgrade.
umm, if there is no power after 5500 rpm, how come mazda rates the engine at 125hp at 6500rpm? Most dyno plots put peak hp at 6000, or about 6400-6600 with the RX-7 VAF swap, a 60 dollar upgrade.
December-4th-2001, 03:42 PM
#8
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Driving my brothers SOHC and my moms DOHC they seem quite different. The SOHC feels stronger in the lower RPMS then it does in the high(car doesn't have a tach so i can't give any numbers...). The DOHC doesn't have the same torque feel to me low down as the SOHC, but its got more pull all the way up to high revs.
I don't know if thats what a real dyno would show, but thats what my ***-dyno says
It may also have to do with gear ratio's and such... there both manual btw.
I think on thursday I'll be instpecting the car. I'm going to get it up on the hoist at school to get a good look at everything underneath, etc etc.
I havent driven it yet, but will the same day.
Thanks for all the tips and comments.
I don't know if thats what a real dyno would show, but thats what my ***-dyno says
It may also have to do with gear ratio's and such... there both manual btw.
I think on thursday I'll be instpecting the car. I'm going to get it up on the hoist at school to get a good look at everything underneath, etc etc.
I havent driven it yet, but will the same day.
Thanks for all the tips and comments.
December-4th-2001, 05:38 PM
#9
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Bizbob,
I know my last post had nothing to do with blown head gaskets because, honestly I've never heard of a Protegé having that problem. I put that up because of superdave's original post:
. The coolant sensor is about the only common prob on the pro I can think of. Here's a little worthless info, '88-92 626's and MX-6's have the same problem according to a friend of mine that owns a 1st gen MX-6, except they have something crazy like four different coolant sensors.
P.S. Now that I think of it, you're probably the guy from Protegétech that told me about the coolant sensors in the first place.
I know my last post had nothing to do with blown head gaskets because, honestly I've never heard of a Protegé having that problem. I put that up because of superdave's original post:
What else should I look for on this car that is a common problem on the 1st gen
P.S. Now that I think of it, you're probably the guy from Protegétech that told me about the coolant sensors in the first place.
December-4th-2001, 11:00 PM
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Originally posted by TheMAN
Back pressure is supposed to aid low end power, not high end.
Back pressure is supposed to aid low end power, not high end.
December-5th-2001, 01:02 PM
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Originally posted by 90&00 Protege
Well then, I'd say you went a tick too small.
My Miata (1.6L) with turbo was very constricted with a 2.25" exhaust...I'm now running 2.5" all the way from turbo to exhaust tip...much better.
As 1.8L engines go in the turbo-Miata crowd, 2.5" is the small end...some have gone to 3".
Well then, I'd say you went a tick too small.
My Miata (1.6L) with turbo was very constricted with a 2.25" exhaust...I'm now running 2.5" all the way from turbo to exhaust tip...much better.
As 1.8L engines go in the turbo-Miata crowd, 2.5" is the small end...some have gone to 3".
I don't have the money yet for anything bigger. If I do go with bigger turbo, I'll just get bigger exhaust piping if there's a problem. Money won't be the issue if I'm getting a big turbo anyways...
Isn't 2.25" big enough for the stock turbo?
December-8th-2001, 03:11 PM
#13
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I bought the GT. $900 canadian
It needs a fair bit of work... head gasket, cv joints, clunk in the right rear suspension (any ideas??), and some other minor things..
I'm supposed to get it monday... yayyyy
It needs a fair bit of work... head gasket, cv joints, clunk in the right rear suspension (any ideas??), and some other minor things..
I'm supposed to get it monday... yayyyy
December-17th-2001, 12:05 AM
#14
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Got the car and its parked in the garage. I did oil/plugs/filter in prep for emissions testing. After I do some more work on it, it will be going to be saftied and emissions tested so I can get it on the road and take the RX-7 off.
Fixed the clunk in the right rear suspension. It was the strut mount.. it had rusted out, so the strut wasn't attached at the top, and well neither was the spring...
The left front outer (by the wheel) CV joint boot has a nice big rip in it.. so i'm guessing thats the one thats clicking. I bought a new axle for $100 canadian after core return, that goes on next...
BTW is the hub bolt 31MM? I have a 32MM socket thats to big, and a 30MM thats to small? Gotta go buy a 31MM tomorrow.
Fixed the clunk in the right rear suspension. It was the strut mount.. it had rusted out, so the strut wasn't attached at the top, and well neither was the spring...
The left front outer (by the wheel) CV joint boot has a nice big rip in it.. so i'm guessing thats the one thats clicking. I bought a new axle for $100 canadian after core return, that goes on next...
BTW is the hub bolt 31MM? I have a 32MM socket thats to big, and a 30MM thats to small? Gotta go buy a 31MM tomorrow.
December-17th-2001, 05:32 PM
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Originally posted by 90&00 Protege
Congrats Superdave...
What colour...out of the three choices? White, Red, or Black?
Make sure to check the rear brakes aren't seized. With the level of rust that you report (rear suspension), I'd say that unless they were really well looked after (sounds as if the whole car wasn't), the rear caliper slider pin will be all locked up...resulting in rear brakes on only one pad out of the two.
Congrats Superdave...
What colour...out of the three choices? White, Red, or Black?
Make sure to check the rear brakes aren't seized. With the level of rust that you report (rear suspension), I'd say that unless they were really well looked after (sounds as if the whole car wasn't), the rear caliper slider pin will be all locked up...resulting in rear brakes on only one pad out of the two.
Its red... partly faded
I still have the rear end on jack stands so i'll pull off the wheels and check before I lower it down.
The overall rust on the car isn't to bad... it was undercoated when new , but i guess the strut mount area didn't get it...
I think its just the last owner that didn't take care of it... and he had it for 7-8 months. That would explain the CV, head, and a few of the other minor problems.