Powdercoating Available
April-22nd-2004, 09:05 PM
#31
The man behind the mask
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 11,572
I hear ya! I would have my new cams in right now but my wife broke her ankle and I had some heinous ER bills to pay first...it emptied me out....not to mention my airplane tickets to Wagners and what-not.....I'm hoping to sell some jobs so I can start making back some bill money!
April-22nd-2004, 09:35 PM
#32
The man behind the mask
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 11,572
I think you better run 2bar boost if you're going to have a 9" tall intercooler. Too much intercooler is counter-productive. Also, a splitter would be a no-no also as it is an obstruction that lower the efficeincy of your intercooler. If the obsturction too bad it could cause back-up in the turbo and create fin damage.
I would recommend your end caps be centered in the middle on both sides. This will allow the pressurized air to spread out and cool better before being re-compressed through the intake tubing.
Find out what volume of air you're going to be pumping through into the motor and then design the intercooler to work best for it.
If you need the calculation charts for intercooler effieceincy, let me know and I'll get it for you.
I would recommend your end caps be centered in the middle on both sides. This will allow the pressurized air to spread out and cool better before being re-compressed through the intake tubing.
Find out what volume of air you're going to be pumping through into the motor and then design the intercooler to work best for it.
If you need the calculation charts for intercooler effieceincy, let me know and I'll get it for you.
April-24th-2004, 02:05 PM
#35
The man behind the mask
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 11,572
it would be rejected because the files are rather large...wait...I'll create a new thread....post the pictures....you save them then I'll delete the thread.
Look for it in the OT section.....then come back and delete all of your posts from this thread that are not powdercoating-related.
Look for it in the OT section.....then come back and delete all of your posts from this thread that are not powdercoating-related.
May-3rd-2004, 04:37 PM
#36
Registered User
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 153
Last post was about a week ago, Roddimus are you up and running yet? Need a cost ,if you have had time to figure out what it would be...new valve cover powdercoated yellow and possibily if you get cover or would you like it better if I got my own?
dav
dav
May-3rd-2004, 04:42 PM
#37
The man behind the mask
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 11,572
The shop is built. Electrical is about half done. I just have to get power to my new breaker box and then I'll start setting everything up.
If I get the cover for you there would be a $125 core charge (what it costs me to buy a new cover) which would be returned to you once we swap up.
If you are just wanting the Valve cover done in a solid MP3 yellow I will do it for $125 (+core if needed). I've got the powder instock now so once my new UV Lamp shows up we'd be able to get started. I'll be out of town for a few days to attend Wagner's new shop opening so your best bet is to either catch me in email (perrymuk@bellsouth.net) or on the phone 621-4517 (after 5)
If I get the cover for you there would be a $125 core charge (what it costs me to buy a new cover) which would be returned to you once we swap up.
If you are just wanting the Valve cover done in a solid MP3 yellow I will do it for $125 (+core if needed). I've got the powder instock now so once my new UV Lamp shows up we'd be able to get started. I'll be out of town for a few days to attend Wagner's new shop opening so your best bet is to either catch me in email (perrymuk@bellsouth.net) or on the phone 621-4517 (after 5)
May-6th-2004, 02:03 PM
#38
The man behind the mask
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 11,572
Dave, per our conversation the other day i can do the cover in yellow and polish the raised lettering for the same price. It'll just take a little longer. Once it's compleltely cured and cooled off I'll have to strat polishing but it wont take more than few hours.
I'd like to give all of my local "crew" a better deal on pricing so I can get some pieces out to show off. I should be doing my caliper brackets now since my car is sitting up.....that would've been a good project!!
I'd like to give all of my local "crew" a better deal on pricing so I can get some pieces out to show off. I should be doing my caliper brackets now since my car is sitting up.....that would've been a good project!!
May-20th-2004, 01:31 PM
#39
The man behind the mask
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 11,572
bump www.mullisbrothersracing.com starting to get some more content up guys, thought you'd want to look it over and pick out your favorite colors.
May-20th-2004, 01:41 PM
#40
Protege Enthusiast
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 93
Yes the color page is up!
Here's a direct link to JUST the color page. Be sure to look around the site. More is added every week.
http://www.mullisbrothersracing.com/powdercolors.htm
Chris
Here's a direct link to JUST the color page. Be sure to look around the site. More is added every week.
http://www.mullisbrothersracing.com/powdercolors.htm
Chris
May-20th-2004, 02:53 PM
#43
The man behind the mask
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 11,572
that lady that told me she spoke with you said you already had one....she also pissed my wife off....which is NOT a good thing to do.
One time I was ice skating by myself and my wife was sitting in the bleachers watching. Some girls passed by and were making fun of me (to this day still don't know what was said). My wife got into a little word battle with them and then beat the **** out of both girls and stuffed them in a trash can. I love that girl.
One time I was ice skating by myself and my wife was sitting in the bleachers watching. Some girls passed by and were making fun of me (to this day still don't know what was said). My wife got into a little word battle with them and then beat the **** out of both girls and stuffed them in a trash can. I love that girl.
May-21st-2004, 11:51 AM
#45
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 165
OK - here's a process question. Is powder coating similar to electrostatic painting where a negative charge is applied to the item being painted, and the paint as a positive charge is then drawn to the item? I have specified this process many times as it draws paint to surfaces that may in a normal spray painting process not be coated with paint.
Here's the reason for my question. I just bought a '73 Honda CT70 mini trail bike for me and my 10 year old to strip down and rebuild (actually bought from a guy in B'ham; should have had him ship it to you first!). The frame is like a "uni-body" in that there is no tubular frame with sheet metal pieces. The frame is actually formed sheet metal welded together to form a "body" and frame (here's a link if you want to see what it looks like - http://www.hondatrail70.com/ ). A bunch of the bike's components are housed within the frame, i.e. gas tank, battery, tool kit, so the interior of the frame is pretty cavernous, but not all of the spaces are easily reachable inside (you can see it, but you can't really get your hand in there).
So the finish of the frame is kinda battered, and theres some rust forming on the outside. I'm going to assume that there is also some rust on the inside too. What I'm thinking of doing is chemically dipping the frame to strip all of the paint, and then dipping the frame again to neutralize the rust into black oxide.
I would like to have a powdercoat finish on the frame to make it as durable as possible (this bike's gotta make it down to my 5 and 3 year old boys). Does the powdercoating process get the powder to reach areas that are not easily accessible?
I've also been looking at Eastwood's site. I see that they offer a powdercoat primer that is used before the finish powder coat. Supposed to make the finish much more durable, and allows the finish to flow out smoother. What's your take on this?
Here's the reason for my question. I just bought a '73 Honda CT70 mini trail bike for me and my 10 year old to strip down and rebuild (actually bought from a guy in B'ham; should have had him ship it to you first!). The frame is like a "uni-body" in that there is no tubular frame with sheet metal pieces. The frame is actually formed sheet metal welded together to form a "body" and frame (here's a link if you want to see what it looks like - http://www.hondatrail70.com/ ). A bunch of the bike's components are housed within the frame, i.e. gas tank, battery, tool kit, so the interior of the frame is pretty cavernous, but not all of the spaces are easily reachable inside (you can see it, but you can't really get your hand in there).
So the finish of the frame is kinda battered, and theres some rust forming on the outside. I'm going to assume that there is also some rust on the inside too. What I'm thinking of doing is chemically dipping the frame to strip all of the paint, and then dipping the frame again to neutralize the rust into black oxide.
I would like to have a powdercoat finish on the frame to make it as durable as possible (this bike's gotta make it down to my 5 and 3 year old boys). Does the powdercoating process get the powder to reach areas that are not easily accessible?
I've also been looking at Eastwood's site. I see that they offer a powdercoat primer that is used before the finish powder coat. Supposed to make the finish much more durable, and allows the finish to flow out smoother. What's your take on this?