I'm such a sellout, but at least my stereo sounds good
I'm such a sellout, but at least my stereo sounds good
Hey, folks - Don't mind me, I suck. I mean, I get into this forum all high and mighty about building a sleeper, with the only parts going into it intended to improve performance. But, you see, I sold out.
I now have an Audiobahn 10" self-amplified bass tube in the back, to provide a little extra kick to the music. Midrange and low-end was sorely lacking in the stock stereo system. It was good for news radio, but not for rock. Now, it ROCKS. The tube only added about 20 pounds, and came with high quality wiring. I used an RCA converter and took the signal from the right rear speaker, no noise. Haven't wired an amp in years... forgot what a pain in the **** it is. Anyhow, I might be a hypocrite for doing it, but at least I am going to enjoy my ride home that much more!!!
I now have an Audiobahn 10" self-amplified bass tube in the back, to provide a little extra kick to the music. Midrange and low-end was sorely lacking in the stock stereo system. It was good for news radio, but not for rock. Now, it ROCKS. The tube only added about 20 pounds, and came with high quality wiring. I used an RCA converter and took the signal from the right rear speaker, no noise. Haven't wired an amp in years... forgot what a pain in the **** it is. Anyhow, I might be a hypocrite for doing it, but at least I am going to enjoy my ride home that much more!!!
Hey,
A couple of tips for anyone wiring an amp/ bass tube in a Protege 5:
1) Splicing into the yellow wire behind the deck will work for the signal wire that turns the amp on and off with the stereo.
2) If you are using the stock deck, you'll need to get a converter to run RCA cables. These converters are around twenty bucks. I spliced into the harness in the B-pillar, for the right rear speaker. The converter fits nicely in a cutout in the B-pillar, and is covered by the stock plastic trim.
3) The wiring harness goes through the firewall in the passenger footwell. To pass the positive wire through, push a bic pen through the grommet. Unsrew the nose of the pen and remove the ink cartridge. The positive wire will easily slide through the pen and into the engine compartment. Then, pull the pen out. You'll have a nice tight seal on the wire, and you didn't need to drill any new holes! Attach a fuse holder and run it to the battery.
4) If using a bass tube, the rear seat anchors work great for fastening nylon straps around to hold it in place. Again, no need to drill into your car!
A couple of tips for anyone wiring an amp/ bass tube in a Protege 5:
1) Splicing into the yellow wire behind the deck will work for the signal wire that turns the amp on and off with the stereo.
2) If you are using the stock deck, you'll need to get a converter to run RCA cables. These converters are around twenty bucks. I spliced into the harness in the B-pillar, for the right rear speaker. The converter fits nicely in a cutout in the B-pillar, and is covered by the stock plastic trim.
3) The wiring harness goes through the firewall in the passenger footwell. To pass the positive wire through, push a bic pen through the grommet. Unsrew the nose of the pen and remove the ink cartridge. The positive wire will easily slide through the pen and into the engine compartment. Then, pull the pen out. You'll have a nice tight seal on the wire, and you didn't need to drill any new holes! Attach a fuse holder and run it to the battery.
4) If using a bass tube, the rear seat anchors work great for fastening nylon straps around to hold it in place. Again, no need to drill into your car!
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Glazedham42
1st Gen Protege/323/GLC
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Jun 12, 2002 07:57 AM
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