Anyone else with Mazda 3 blown engine?
 

I have a 2006 Mazda 3 (5 speed manual) that recently needed a new engine. The car had 81,000 miles on it and we have promptly done all oil changes on it. One day it was fine and the next the motor was blown (horrific sound when the motor started). We had no warning, no oil leaks, etc. We checked the oil and the oil level was fine. We had it towed to our mechanic and he also checked the oil, the level was fine, but he noticed metal chips in it indicating a major engine problem. He said it needed a new engine. We were skeptical, even though this mechanic has been wonderful to us, so we had the car towed to a Mazda dealer. The dealer immediately told us the car was down 3 quarts of oil (lie) and the engine was blown because we didn't have oil in it. After much research on my mechanics part and mine, I'm finding out that many Mazda 3 engines have blown for no reason. We were told that there are NO rebuilt engines for this. My mechanic told me that no one will rebuild them because of all the problems they have had with them. We ended up spending $6,000 at the dealer for a new engine.
Has anyone else had a blown engine for no reason? And no, we do not race this car.

I haven't seen many blown engine posts (though you can search the forum). There have been a few mentioning a sudden onset of rattling at certain RPM's which sounds like a valve problem.
I'm suprised that there would be no warning sounds before it died... I can only guess that a bearing must have seized, then shreaded itself when you restarted. Though this is not a normal occurance for any engine.
If there was sludge in the engine that could have resulted in poor oil flow to one / multiple bearings or other parts, or if the oil pump died, there's not a lot that would be a sudden onset of failure that I can think of.
I'd have a mechanic figure out exactly what failed before fixing it... since if you rebuild it and put a bad part back in it'll just kill the new engine.

Good luck.

I fear I'm seeing the beginning signs of my engine going also :(
I've been doing some research when I came across this link....

http://apa.ca/readarticle.asp?id=547

Scary that Mazda doesn't seem to be acknowledging there is potentially a major problem with their cars.

I just found out that my 2007 Mazda 3 engine is blown. No warning sounds or lights, just started making a horrible knocking noise. I keep up on all maintenance, and my car is under warrenty too, but from reading other forums and posts, I may still have to pay $5,000 out of pocket.

Not a warning, not even a creak
 

Car just up and died. I have it serviced regularly, in the last two years have driven it less than 3000km, I take care of the car...end november I checked the oil and changed to winter tires, oil was fine. then christmas day the car started making a knocking/grinding noise that got worse really fast.
I checked the oil by guess and oil was dryer than 100 year old beef jerky.
No warning, no warning light, nothing. Now i am the owner of a mazda 3, 2.3 l dead car.
Mazda dealership stated there were no leaks found in the engine at all. No leaks under the car, nothing, suggesting perhaps it was burning oil and I did not notice?
I am sensitive to smells, I would have noticed and gotten it looked at immediately.
I can understand better if I drove the car to the ground, didnt get it serviced, didnt take care of it but this, I don't understand this at all.

to get a 30 day warrantied, refurbished engine is 3500.00 plus installation plus taxes...for this to happen again.

my goodness, no warning at all not even a hint of a cold or sneeze...

you guys are scaring the me out.... I just traded my Honda Accord for a Mazda SP3 2.3 few weeks back. I drive a bit over 500 miles a week so the car regardless of how well I take care of it will get some major miles out on. I would just hate to see it die - specially without any warnings.

For those that have had this problem, there is an oil light for low pressure. That should come on if there is no oil, was that switch & light tested on the dead engines? I'm surprised that it wouldn't have come on if the oil went away.

2010 mazdaspeed3 dead
 

my speed has just over 42000 miles and i was sitting in stop and go traffic here at busch gardens and he motor just started knocking on the top end and it was loud. out of no where. i never got a light or any warnings. mazda is going to give me a new engine for free but they wont take it apart and tell me what failed.

Blown engine
 

I am slowly joining the blown engine club. 05 mazda3 2.3 manual with a whopping 108,000kms on it and always dealer serviced never driven hard. Motor runs great but get a good top end rattling noise aunder load at about 3000rpm.after sitting it puffs excess oil out the tailpipe but runs smooth just eats oil. Dealer quote was $6350 for new motorwhich i wont pay. Used is a crap shoot cause you'll end up with same problem and a well known rebuiler locally said they wont do it cause it will happen again. Very bad motor design. Mazda wont do anythinv to help but then again i am 2yrs past warranty. I am thinking of getting a wrecked 3 with the 2.0 as it is alot more hassle free and will bolt in. Just ned cpu and the dash guages then recode the keys to the donor set up. Few have done it n seems well worth and the used motors are substantialy cheaper to buy. Anyone else with same ideas or other alternatives id love to hear em. Btw new to this site but am veryfamiliar with the forums.

Mavis Tire Discount almost made me join the dead engine club. I took my car for a synthetic oil change and four days later I found myself in Cornwall , CT (AKA middle of nowhere) with a noisy engine and oil light lit up. The engine started making a rattling noise about 2,5k to 3k RPM. Since I don't push my car mush, I started noticing the noise every time I shifted. It also happened when trying to maintained speed on the highway. Mavis acknowledged the fault and had me drop off my car today for them to take it to a engine specialist they use in Tarrytown, NY. I was a bit hesitant at first and wanted them to take it to Mazda for repair, but after doing a bit of a search I found the shop they taking it to has a very good repudiation and do specialize in high end performance engines. I dropped off my car today and will be following up tomorrow with the shop to find out what went wrong.

blown engine
 

I had a 2005 Mazda 3 GT 2.3 manual. The exact same thing happened at 100,000 km. (62,000 miles)
I was the second owner and luckily I had the extended warranty transferred. It was always dealer serviced, but I had to fight to have the short block replaced. I'm a middle aged woman who drives to work and back. They told me that I must have been off roading (um, no) or that I didn't maintain it. ( I had every single receipt to prove otherwise).
It just started knocking, I pulled over , and then game over. I won though, and they replaced it thus saving me 6000.00.
I sold the car.
Currently on Vancouver Craigslist, there are 2 Mazda3's for sale (2004/2005) with a replaced engine for sale. Another 2005 is for sale 'with a blown engine' for 2000.00.
How is Mazda getting away with this?
How is a 30,000.00 dollar car worthless after 62,000 miles?! Google "Mazda blown engine" and see how common it is...
I'm sorry that this happened to you. I was lucky.

2004 Blown engine
 

I too have recently blown the engine on my three, no warning no light just a loud knock. I had the oil changed regularly and was coming up on the next change when it happened, apparently over 100k this engine starts to burn oil. I had always used synthetic oil so i believe that is the reason why it lasted as long as it did. There was not one drop of oil left in the engine. Someone had posted on a forum once that Mazda knows about the issue and has been helping in correcting the problem with engines that have blown. Does anyone know about this? I guess i am a gluten for punishment because i went out and bought a SP3 2013..... I love Mazda's

hi folks,
i got a 2005 mazda 2.3L 5-speed manual with 130k on it. Recently my engine light came on took it to auto zone and had them scan the CPU it read P2404 Evap hose detection leak. The gentleman there was helpful and suggested that it may be the EGR valve or the some fume canister that sits in trunk under the spare tire. I maintain this car well oil changes, etc. Please help anyone? anybody fix this issue any tips are appreciated.

thanks,
ATX2.3L

PLEASE HELP.....ANYONE

I have a 2010 Mazda 3 and got the oil change done by a private garage. Last week the platic seal around the oil filter broke and all the oil came out. As soon as the oil light came on i turned off the engine but i was apparently too late and the engine blew (according to Mazda). Now the dealership doesn't want to honor the warranty. I also have certain doubts about this dealership (Lehman Mazda in Miami) as i've read several bad reviews. My car was funtioning when it was towed but when they called me they said the engine didn't turn on. How do i know that they didn't turn the car on when it arrived at their lot and they blew the engine? Where does it say in the contract that i can't have my oil change done at a private garage?
If anyone has any suggestions, tips or can help PLEASE advise.

Thank you

mazda 3 blown engine
 

I cant believe why anyone should or would pay $6000 plus for a replacement engine, there are plenty of damaged cars that go to auctions every week, log onto the auction sites and look for a low mileage damage car that suits your needs, you should be able to pick up one you need for spares even if you take it home and strip the parts off you need and take the rest to the scrap metal dealers, you will not only have a good engine complete with gearbox ready to install as a complete unit, but have plenty of spare parts, wreckers buy their cars from these auctions, in all its up to you where you spend your hard earned cash but for me it the auctions where i pick up my cars from, thanks for reading my advice.

My 2007 did the same thing....no signs ....always on top of maintenance...pissed

My 2007 just calfed...135 thow...Choked

mazda blown engine, engineering problem
 

Hi, if there are so many mazda engines with engine problem one would have thought the engineers at mazda would have installed a low oil alert switch so it cuts out the engine with low oil in the sump, holden v6 motors have them and even briggs and stratton small engines have them, so if the motor is low on oil it can't be started, so by installing such a switch wouldnt it solve those customer complaints, also if the proper servicing is not done at the correct intervals plus not using the correct oil for the engine and changing the oil filter will in the end cause the bearings to spin, thus causing the ultimate rod throw out the block scenerio, thanks

My 05 SP23 also blew without warning...twice....in the past six months. I did regular services, oil changes every 3,000 miles all that. First time it seemed to be a problem with the oil not feeding into the engine. The second one was a failure in the oil pressure sensor, it failed and shot all the oil all over everywhere while on the freeway....The first time it went it made a clicking sound above about 3k rpm, that sounded very similar to the valve system going bad, but it definately wasn't, the second time was without warning about 500 miles after an oil change... So hopefully that helps anyone else figure it out before its too late?

Mine blew a couple days back. It's at Mazda of Frederick MD right now. I bought it second hand at ford dealership and got an extended warranty on it. Hopefully they honor it. Car has 96k on it. I did all the oil changes at 3k with synthetic oil. Supposed to know something tomorrow on it.

So Ford ESP is saying that the oil filter was installed incorrectly and they are not going to "participate" in the repair. So very pi$$ed.

Just got a mazda 3 2005 2.3L automatic. I had a mechanic inspect the car before getting it. Is there anything I can do to prevent this problem that has been listed here? I read somewhere that the problem is more common with 2.3 with manual transmission. I really did put alot of money into getting this car (my first car) and would be really sad if the engine where to blow due to the problem listed here? Is there hope for me? or is it best to sell the car (just got it never even registered it for us)

I would say there is hope. Just don't use a Fram oil filter and check it frequently. Fram told me that they dont have a product for my engine but in all the catalogs they do. The 3's seem burn oil faster than most prolly do to the Ford design. Buy Mazda filters if you can, they are more expensive but you'll have less risk with them

Thanks so much bro. I will pass this across to my mechanic. I am about to do a thorough service work on the car.

I heard the problem is more common with manual than auto and also that using a synthetic oil like mobile 1 does help. is this though?

There was talk awhile ago about not wanting to switch from Dino to Synthetic since the valve train and such was already hardened by conventional oils. I haven't found that one the case but have only used synthetic in my cars. I would say use something like Mobil 1 and just ensure your oil burn rate doesn't accelerate. For me the biggest thing was the Fram oil filter. I cannot stress enough how I will never use another one of their products. It's sad too because I had heard that years ago and just always believed they were a fine company. Good luck with yours.

Oh no. I just bought a 2004 Mazda 3GT 2.3 and i have to replace 3-4 litres every 2 days. The Kms are very high. Im from Vancouver BC Canada. Im gonna keep filling it with oil cause thats all i can afford to do at the moment. I Saved for a Year to afford this. Taking the bus everywhere and borrowing my moms car when i could. Im a sad sad camper that doesn't know what to do.

if it is using that much, you can also try some of the slick 50 / prolong / lucas / bardhal / polytron sort of additives that claim to protect the engine even with no oil.

Search Polytron vs. Other Brands + No Oil Driving Test - that seemed impressive for a video test.

At this point it can't hurt to add just about anything :)

Pistons Mazda 3
 

Hello,
I ran through a deep water puddle and broke two center pistons and connecting rods.

I have a 2006 Mazda 3 S 2.3L 2260CC l4 GAS DOHC Engine. The dealers don't sell pistons or rods, have to buy the long block.

I did my research seems like Wiseco pistons and Eagle rod might work but the cost is almost $1000 for just the parts. Has anyone used their parts and did your engine work again?

Wondering if anyone still have their old pistons that I can use for my car?

Thanks,
Alok
5104576878

2007 Mazda 3 blown engine
 

I am now a sad member of the blown engine club. Yesterday leaving for work a sudden bang followed by terrible engine noise, knocking, then smoke coming from under the hood. Oil had sprayed everywhere. So far a mechanic has said "the back of your engine has a hole in it". I'm towing it to a second place for another opinion and quote on a used engine. The dealer was no help other than trying desperately to get me into a NEW car. I have had zero problems with this car. No hints of any engine trouble whatsoever. I am still in shock! Only 63,000 miles on it. I've done pretty regular oil changes and maintenance. But this thing has needed nothing so far other than tires.

I bought my 2006 Mazda3 s 5-door (5-speed manual) new in December 2005. In May 2008, with 800 miles left on the 50k warranty, I started it one evening to head home from the office and that was it! The oil had been changed every 6000-7000 miles (once I went 7200 miles) but the manual only specified every 7500 miles, so I was in compliance. I checked the oil at least once every other fill-up (once ever 750 miles or so). It never used more than a half-quart between oil change intervals.

It took several days and a few very firm conversations with various members of dealership management as well a regional director from Mazda N.A. But they replaced the engine under warranty and put me in a loaner for the three weeks that it took order the new engine and install it!

I started using Royal Purple Synthetic Oil and changing the oil every 5000 miles after the engine replacement. I've only put 47k miles on the new engine (96k on the car) and it runs perfectly, but I also check the oil level every 200 miles or so. I still don't fully trust it...

is this problem only on the 2.3, or all m3 engines?

To my knowledge, it's just the 2.3L (2004-2009 's' models).

has anyone figured out what the problem is?

I own a 2007 2.0, and I had the same problem. First I bought an Actron CP9575 scanner; it translates codes to English, and, you can find them for about $100. I figured that if I'm going to drive nothing but computer controlled cars, I might as well be able to converse with them. Also, I bought the Haynes Mazda 3 Repair Manual (Amazon) about $13. Even if you don't do your own repairs, this manual is very helpful with routine care, and it gives you a second opinion reference when dealing with repair shops. The error you have is either excess or lack of flow through Evap recovery. The cause can be a gas cap leak, canister plugged, line leak or defective purge valve. The gas cap gasket can be inspected for cracks or deformities. The canister is probably OK. Hose leaks are also rare, but can be checked. In my case, the culprit was a stuck open purge valve. One big indication that the purge valve is stuck is that the car will be hard to start after filling with fuel. The purge valve is located under the hood, under a couple of other lines between the engine and the computer/battery boxes. The purge valve is connected to the intake manifold via a line that runs directly over the throttle body and has a red retainer ring at the manifold connection. With engine off, disconnect the electric plug at the other end and the small spring hose clamp. Pull the rubber hose off the valve, and slip the rubber mount off of the engine bracket. Maneuver the valve so that you can blow through it. If you can blow through it, it's stuck. If you want to replace it yourself, I bought the entire assembly from Auto Parts Warehouse. This is the link to the part I bought http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...3-1841751.html. This is a lot of verbiage, but now you know all that I know. Good luck.

Well I hate to say it but at 141,987 miles my mazda 2.3 sedan my oil is starting to just up and dissapear....I keep buying all the parts that this. Car came with mostly ngk and well my transmission mount is about to give out so I say at almost 150k miles and no engine swap yet I think im doing pretty good no engine knock no hose leaks everything is grade a when plugged into. Computer at auto zone and a mazda compiter. I just took off my aftermarket rims due to low gas mileage I prefer to just dip my factorys In black. I just had a small problem thought my key lost its programming but was quickly corrected it was a wrong removal of battery that causes the anti theft system to engage any one have that problem? For when you do dont think its your key half the time you just need to have an honest friend on your side that aint about making a living off your money rather just to give you the best deal possible.

I wish I had sold mine before my engine blew
 

[QUOTE=bigbrovar;421190]Just got a mazda 3 2005 2.3L automatic. I had a mechanic inspect the car before getting it. Is there anything I can do to prevent this problem that has been listed here? I read somewhere that the problem is more common with 2.3 with manual transmission. I really did put alot of money into getting this car (my first car) and would be really sad if the engine where to blow due to the problem listed here? Is there hope for me? or is it best to sell the car (just got it never even registered it for us)[ /Sell it!!
QUOTE]

I guess those expensive platinum warranties sometimes may be a good buy huh?

Well, I guess I'm not the only one. :(

Last night (February 12) I started driving home. The engine started making an odd noise, like someone was running a 3/8" electric drill under the hood. It was bitterly cold (-25 C or -13 F) here in the great white north, so I thought it was a belt slipping a bit until the car was warmed up.

After driving about 4 km. (2.5 miles) the CEL lit up. I had three choices: stop immediately on the side of the road, out by the side of a farmer's field where the wind was whipping up a blizzard of blowing snow, turn around and go back (4 km.) or continue on home and put my analyzer on the engine to check out the CEL (another 5 km.).

It's a CEL, right? We've all probably had CELs light up before. The last time I had one, it was a faulty thermostat that didn't close fully. The car ran fine. No big deal.

5 km. later the car just up and stopped. Wouldn't start again. Called a tow truck. Took it to the local Mazda dealer.

Local Mazda dealer says my oil pressure switch failed. The oil pressure switch has a plastic top. He didn't tell me this - I'm only guessing - but I suspect the plastic cracked and leaked oil

I told the Mazda guy that the oil pressure warning light didn't light up. He told me that it wouldn't because the oil pressure switch had failed. So the oil pressure switch can fail, spew oil out the engine, and you don't know because the low oil pressure warning light is controlled by the oil pressure switch, which is draining the oil out of your engine.

I checked my 2004 Mazda 3 FSM, and the only way that you can check if your oil pressure switch is operating correctly is to notice that the oil pressure warning light lights up when you turn on your ignition key and turns off when you start the engine. Of course, we always notice that, don't we. ;)

So I have a blown engine. Only 85,500 miles on the car and I follow the Mazda maintenance schedule religiously.

If the oil pressure switch can fail and drain your oil out of your engine without any warning lights lighting up - until it's too late, and your engine dies - then this is a real bad design flaw, don't you think? :Wconfused

jim-san - Sorry about your engine, but glad that there was a problem found. Hopefully that will help at least some vehicles from biting the dust prematurely.

Thanks, djs2571. I would encourage all MZ3 owners to check their oil pressure switch when doing an oil change, or ask the person doing their oil changes to check it. I would just give the green plastic piece a good hard pull to see if it is going to come apart!

Here's what the broken oil pressure sensor looks like. The green part fits into the metal part.

I don't see what was holding it together - except maybe Krazy Glue? :mad: