Your Washing, Polishing, Waxing Process? Need Feedback!
June-19th-2002, 10:34 PM
#1
Protege Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 126
Your Washing, Polishing, Waxing Process? Need Feedback!
I get my new car this Saturday. I was thinking of using Meguiar's Deep Crystal System where you have 3 steps :
a) Wash
b) DCS Paint Cleaner
c) DCS Polish
d) DCS Wax
The problem with this is that Megiuar's DCS uses Caranuba wax which doesn't last long. I'm looking for maximum protection against bird droppings in particular. I had etching on my previous car as a result of bird droppings.
Also, I was planning on repeating the process above at least once every 2-3 Months. Would this system do the job for me? Or should I consider something else? I live in Canada and want to use something that is readily available in stores rather than online retailers.
Lastly, in between the times where you use the cleaner,polish and wax... do you guys just wash your car and dry and that's it? Pointers here would also be appreciative. I was thinking of doing a Wash, Dry, Quik Detailer in between...
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Hoping to get lots of feedback on this one guys/gals.
PJStyles
a) Wash
b) DCS Paint Cleaner
c) DCS Polish
d) DCS Wax
The problem with this is that Megiuar's DCS uses Caranuba wax which doesn't last long. I'm looking for maximum protection against bird droppings in particular. I had etching on my previous car as a result of bird droppings.
Also, I was planning on repeating the process above at least once every 2-3 Months. Would this system do the job for me? Or should I consider something else? I live in Canada and want to use something that is readily available in stores rather than online retailers.
Lastly, in between the times where you use the cleaner,polish and wax... do you guys just wash your car and dry and that's it? Pointers here would also be appreciative. I was thinking of doing a Wash, Dry, Quik Detailer in between...
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Hoping to get lots of feedback on this one guys/gals.
PJStyles
June-19th-2002, 11:31 PM
#4
Slowtegé
Join Date: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,425
Originally posted by leungwingkei
How long does a typical Clay BAr treatment take?
What are the results. I'm thinking of treating my mom's car to it soon.
How long does a typical Clay BAr treatment take?
What are the results. I'm thinking of treating my mom's car to it soon.
June-20th-2002, 12:45 AM
#5
Bruce Leroy
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Calgary, AB, Canada
Posts: 788
Long response
Ok, if you want something that'll last longer than Carnauba, then you're talking about an acrylic or polymer. Good acrylics/polymers will last 4-6 months (under good conditions) whereas the typical carnauba will only last 4 months at max, but in Canada (also depending on location), I'd say more like 1-2 months...3 is a stretch.
Mail order Zaino is supposed to be good. You can get others over the internet like Blackfire or Klasse...both are also supposed to be good.
But I hate waiting and paying thru mail or on the net. So a good store bought polymer is Meguiar's #20. Also, IIRC, Mother's has a polymer called Reflections. I've found it in a few stores. I think CanTire now stocks it.
Nu-finish is also a polymer, but in terms of shine, it licks. Also, nu-finish leaves a TON of white residue.
Clay time go here:
http://www.autopia-carport.com/forum...highlight=clay
Sounds like it takes them 20min to 2 hours to clay.
Ok, now in terms of the 3 step systems:
I use Mother's "Ultimate" system...basically the same as Meguiar's.
Take note here....the pre-wax cleaner should only be used about twice a year. It's meant to really clean your paint and could prove harmful after much use.
Here's what I would do if I wanted to start from scratch with a 3-step system:
1) Wash with Dawn liquid dish soap. This will strip ALL layers of wax. To make sure, wash twice. Dawn should ONLY be used when you want to remove all the wax...don't use it every time. It is really alkaline and could harm the clear if used frequently.
Also, I would wash and scrub the wheels/tires FIRST. There's probably lots of brake dust down there, and you don't want that spraying up onto your car after you've washed once.
I would also use 2 buckets here. One for the wheels/tires and the other for the rest of the car. I don't like the idea that there could be a bit of metallic brake dust in my bucket, so I play it safe and use 2.
2) Clay if you need to. One way to check is to grab a plastic sandwich bag, stick your hand in it and feel your paint's surface. If you feel any bumps, you'll probably want to clay. Be sure to use lots of QD (quick detailer) while claying...if you feel any resistance, spray more QD. I wouldn't clay too often...just if you're about to wax and feel that the paint is not perfectly smooth.
3) Wash again with regular car soap. This will ensure that there is no clay residue left. This step is optional, but I'd do it.
EDIT: I've been informed by Greater Powers that this step is pretty unnecessary because you should be ok with the QD....if there is any residue, QD it and wipe it off with a clean towel.
4) Use very low adhesive tape and tape any sort of plastic trim that you do not want wax on. This 5 minute job will save you hours of headaches later.
5) Pre-wax cleaner. Follow directions. Also, when touching your paint with ANYTHING (ie. car wash mitt, applicators, clay, etc) make sure you are NOT rubbing in circles as this can indue swirls. Only rub back to front. If you do happen to make a scratch, it will be less noticeable this way. This applies to ALL steps.
6) Polish/ Sealer&Glaze. Apply liberally, but note that the paint can only absorb so much product here. So any extra is just waste.
7) Wax. Again, make sure it's only front to back strokes. Don't apply too much wax or you will probably get streaks. Make sure you allow adequate time for the wax to haze.
*Note: Multiple layers of carnauba wax don't offer too much more protection. It's not like you can really pile layer on top of layer...well you can, but think about how thick that layer is...you're not adding too much more.
8) If you're fussy, you can QD the car now to add some extra shine, but the car should be looking pretty stellar already.
9) Apply tire dressing. I like Meguiar's Endurance Tire gel (not Hi-gloss), but whatever floats your boat.
10) If I have time, do the interior. I agree...Armor-all has to many stories I've heard of people's dash cracking and it also attracts dust like mad. I'm using 303 aerospace protectant in my interior. Smells kinda gross, but it leaves a nice factory matte finish.
A few days later, you may see white residue in cracks (ie. by gas cap). Grab a q-tip and get rid of it.
One thing I highly recommend is getting a ton of micro-fiber (MF)towels. OMG..these things are amazing. They absorb a ton of water and are less likely to scratch than even 100% pure cotton towels. I like Meguiar's Ultimate wipes, but it's not very plush. There's a store online called www.neatitems.com and I have 5 off their towels. Very, very nice towels.
The MF towels I like are 70/30 (70% polyester, 30% polyamide). These towels absorb water better than 80/20 towels.
Also, you may find MF towels that are 70/30 but have a suede feel to them. The Simoniz MF towels at CanTire are like this. They are not very good at absorbing water, but are great on glass.
My new drying technique is this:
1) spray the car down with the hose so that the majority of the water sheets off.
2) gently dab the remaining water with a big 100% cotton towel.
3) use the plush side of a MF towel to dry up the rest of the water.
I'm not a fan of dragging things across my paint (ie. a chamois or the absorber) just in case there happens to be a tiny bit of dirt still on the paint. The MF towels have a "nap" to them that will (hopefully) draw the dirt in, away from the surface.
I think you're fine washing, drying, and QD'ing in between waxes. If you notice the beads on your car getting larger, then it's getting close to time to re-wax. I recommend a good wash that will not strip your wax. I am personally using Mother's California Gold for that very reason. Also, it resists water spotting and gives a nice clean shine.
I really think the Meguiar's system will work fine for you. If you're interested, there are better Meguiar's products out there. The better products are in a beige bottle and all those products have a number. IE. #26 is the Hi-tech yellow wax. I would use those, but I've already bought the Mother's stuff and will use that up first.
One last thing...people unless you're one lazy ****, stay away from cleaner waxes. They're not great at cleaning or giving good depth to your paint like a good carnauba wax should. Also, cleaner waxes are abrasive.
So if you're still reading this, I think you'll probably enjoy reading the forums over at www.autopia-carport.com. They are THE GODS of car care. You will learn so much from that forum. I suggest starting off in this part of the forum:
http://www.autopia-carport.com/forum...?s=&forumid=51
Read all the articles. Very good reading.
Other good links:
www.meguiars.com
www.mothers.com
Hope this helps
BTW....I recommend cleaning your engine bay...but that's for another post!!
Mail order Zaino is supposed to be good. You can get others over the internet like Blackfire or Klasse...both are also supposed to be good.
But I hate waiting and paying thru mail or on the net. So a good store bought polymer is Meguiar's #20. Also, IIRC, Mother's has a polymer called Reflections. I've found it in a few stores. I think CanTire now stocks it.
Nu-finish is also a polymer, but in terms of shine, it licks. Also, nu-finish leaves a TON of white residue.
Clay time go here:
http://www.autopia-carport.com/forum...highlight=clay
Sounds like it takes them 20min to 2 hours to clay.
Ok, now in terms of the 3 step systems:
I use Mother's "Ultimate" system...basically the same as Meguiar's.
Take note here....the pre-wax cleaner should only be used about twice a year. It's meant to really clean your paint and could prove harmful after much use.
Here's what I would do if I wanted to start from scratch with a 3-step system:
1) Wash with Dawn liquid dish soap. This will strip ALL layers of wax. To make sure, wash twice. Dawn should ONLY be used when you want to remove all the wax...don't use it every time. It is really alkaline and could harm the clear if used frequently.
Also, I would wash and scrub the wheels/tires FIRST. There's probably lots of brake dust down there, and you don't want that spraying up onto your car after you've washed once.
I would also use 2 buckets here. One for the wheels/tires and the other for the rest of the car. I don't like the idea that there could be a bit of metallic brake dust in my bucket, so I play it safe and use 2.
2) Clay if you need to. One way to check is to grab a plastic sandwich bag, stick your hand in it and feel your paint's surface. If you feel any bumps, you'll probably want to clay. Be sure to use lots of QD (quick detailer) while claying...if you feel any resistance, spray more QD. I wouldn't clay too often...just if you're about to wax and feel that the paint is not perfectly smooth.
3) Wash again with regular car soap. This will ensure that there is no clay residue left. This step is optional, but I'd do it.
EDIT: I've been informed by Greater Powers that this step is pretty unnecessary because you should be ok with the QD....if there is any residue, QD it and wipe it off with a clean towel.
4) Use very low adhesive tape and tape any sort of plastic trim that you do not want wax on. This 5 minute job will save you hours of headaches later.
5) Pre-wax cleaner. Follow directions. Also, when touching your paint with ANYTHING (ie. car wash mitt, applicators, clay, etc) make sure you are NOT rubbing in circles as this can indue swirls. Only rub back to front. If you do happen to make a scratch, it will be less noticeable this way. This applies to ALL steps.
6) Polish/ Sealer&Glaze. Apply liberally, but note that the paint can only absorb so much product here. So any extra is just waste.
7) Wax. Again, make sure it's only front to back strokes. Don't apply too much wax or you will probably get streaks. Make sure you allow adequate time for the wax to haze.
*Note: Multiple layers of carnauba wax don't offer too much more protection. It's not like you can really pile layer on top of layer...well you can, but think about how thick that layer is...you're not adding too much more.
8) If you're fussy, you can QD the car now to add some extra shine, but the car should be looking pretty stellar already.
9) Apply tire dressing. I like Meguiar's Endurance Tire gel (not Hi-gloss), but whatever floats your boat.
10) If I have time, do the interior. I agree...Armor-all has to many stories I've heard of people's dash cracking and it also attracts dust like mad. I'm using 303 aerospace protectant in my interior. Smells kinda gross, but it leaves a nice factory matte finish.
A few days later, you may see white residue in cracks (ie. by gas cap). Grab a q-tip and get rid of it.
One thing I highly recommend is getting a ton of micro-fiber (MF)towels. OMG..these things are amazing. They absorb a ton of water and are less likely to scratch than even 100% pure cotton towels. I like Meguiar's Ultimate wipes, but it's not very plush. There's a store online called www.neatitems.com and I have 5 off their towels. Very, very nice towels.
The MF towels I like are 70/30 (70% polyester, 30% polyamide). These towels absorb water better than 80/20 towels.
Also, you may find MF towels that are 70/30 but have a suede feel to them. The Simoniz MF towels at CanTire are like this. They are not very good at absorbing water, but are great on glass.
My new drying technique is this:
1) spray the car down with the hose so that the majority of the water sheets off.
2) gently dab the remaining water with a big 100% cotton towel.
3) use the plush side of a MF towel to dry up the rest of the water.
I'm not a fan of dragging things across my paint (ie. a chamois or the absorber) just in case there happens to be a tiny bit of dirt still on the paint. The MF towels have a "nap" to them that will (hopefully) draw the dirt in, away from the surface.
I think you're fine washing, drying, and QD'ing in between waxes. If you notice the beads on your car getting larger, then it's getting close to time to re-wax. I recommend a good wash that will not strip your wax. I am personally using Mother's California Gold for that very reason. Also, it resists water spotting and gives a nice clean shine.
I really think the Meguiar's system will work fine for you. If you're interested, there are better Meguiar's products out there. The better products are in a beige bottle and all those products have a number. IE. #26 is the Hi-tech yellow wax. I would use those, but I've already bought the Mother's stuff and will use that up first.
One last thing...people unless you're one lazy ****, stay away from cleaner waxes. They're not great at cleaning or giving good depth to your paint like a good carnauba wax should. Also, cleaner waxes are abrasive.
So if you're still reading this, I think you'll probably enjoy reading the forums over at www.autopia-carport.com. They are THE GODS of car care. You will learn so much from that forum. I suggest starting off in this part of the forum:
http://www.autopia-carport.com/forum...?s=&forumid=51
Read all the articles. Very good reading.
Other good links:
www.meguiars.com
www.mothers.com
Hope this helps
BTW....I recommend cleaning your engine bay...but that's for another post!!
Last edited by Pro_fan; June-22nd-2002 at 12:59 AM.
June-20th-2002, 01:15 AM
#6
Passion for Zoom Zoom!
Join Date: May 2002
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 372
I use a collection of different Meguiar's products.
First, I start off by washing the car. I do this with a strong stream of water to get the majority of the dirt off the paint. I use Meguiar's Gold Class car wash soap, applied with a lamb's wool mit. I apply soap to one section at a time and then rinse and then start another section. I never give the soap a chance to dry. As I am giving the car a final rinse, I watch the path of the water to look for any debris I have missed. I dry with a good quality chamois. I always make sure to get all of the water off every surface, inside door sills and jambs, trunk, hood, etc. I use a wet/dry vacuum set to blow mode to get hard areas to dry, such as the grill. Water is not very good once you start applying the other products.
I follow this with Meguiar's Clear Coat Body Scrub. This non-abrasive cleaner chemically cleans the paint of oxidation, stains, etc. I apply with a buffer with a lamb's wool applicator. I remove by hand with cheese cloth or terry cloth towel. I apply this as many times as needed until the paint is smooth as glass.
Next, I use Meguiar's Deep Crystal polish. Polish restores precious oils and nutrients to the paint. Again I apply with a buffer with a foam polishing pad and remove with cheese cloth or terry cloth towel.
I finish with Meguiar's Gold Class wax. This wax, unlike the Deep Crystal wax, is polymer-based for extra protection and longevity. I apply this with a buffer with a foam applicator pad. I, once again, remove with cheese cloth or terry cloth towel. Once a single coat has been applied, I move the car into the sun to "bake" on the wax. After a couple of hours, I move the car back into the shade to cool off. Once cool, I apply another coat of wax.
I generally repeat this process every 3-4 months. My car is painted Classic Red, which does not have a clear coat. After three and half years of ownership, the paint still looks like it just rolled off the showroom.
Here's a pic of my car the last time I did this:
-Jerry
First, I start off by washing the car. I do this with a strong stream of water to get the majority of the dirt off the paint. I use Meguiar's Gold Class car wash soap, applied with a lamb's wool mit. I apply soap to one section at a time and then rinse and then start another section. I never give the soap a chance to dry. As I am giving the car a final rinse, I watch the path of the water to look for any debris I have missed. I dry with a good quality chamois. I always make sure to get all of the water off every surface, inside door sills and jambs, trunk, hood, etc. I use a wet/dry vacuum set to blow mode to get hard areas to dry, such as the grill. Water is not very good once you start applying the other products.
I follow this with Meguiar's Clear Coat Body Scrub. This non-abrasive cleaner chemically cleans the paint of oxidation, stains, etc. I apply with a buffer with a lamb's wool applicator. I remove by hand with cheese cloth or terry cloth towel. I apply this as many times as needed until the paint is smooth as glass.
Next, I use Meguiar's Deep Crystal polish. Polish restores precious oils and nutrients to the paint. Again I apply with a buffer with a foam polishing pad and remove with cheese cloth or terry cloth towel.
I finish with Meguiar's Gold Class wax. This wax, unlike the Deep Crystal wax, is polymer-based for extra protection and longevity. I apply this with a buffer with a foam applicator pad. I, once again, remove with cheese cloth or terry cloth towel. Once a single coat has been applied, I move the car into the sun to "bake" on the wax. After a couple of hours, I move the car back into the shade to cool off. Once cool, I apply another coat of wax.
I generally repeat this process every 3-4 months. My car is painted Classic Red, which does not have a clear coat. After three and half years of ownership, the paint still looks like it just rolled off the showroom.
Here's a pic of my car the last time I did this:
-Jerry
Last edited by jstand6; June-20th-2002 at 01:26 AM.
June-20th-2002, 01:54 AM
#7
Bruce Leroy
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Calgary, AB, Canada
Posts: 788
Jerry,
From what I've read, the Gold Class wax possibly has mild cleaners in it, making it unable to be layered. Kinda contradictory in this thread though...take a read and decide for yourself:
http://www.autopia-carport.com/forum...ght=gold+class
Also check out this one for some "official" responses from Meguiar's.
http://www.autopia-carport.com/forum...+class+polymer
Sounds like Gold class is a polymer blend and that is why it doesn't last so long.
Also, the body scrub IS abrasive...says so right on the Meguiars website:
http://www.meguiars.com/product_show...ne=CP&SrcCat=2
Did you mean the "Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner"? It says that is non-abrasive.
Anyway, just wanted to clairfy...Thanks.
From what I've read, the Gold Class wax possibly has mild cleaners in it, making it unable to be layered. Kinda contradictory in this thread though...take a read and decide for yourself:
http://www.autopia-carport.com/forum...ght=gold+class
Also check out this one for some "official" responses from Meguiar's.
http://www.autopia-carport.com/forum...+class+polymer
Sounds like Gold class is a polymer blend and that is why it doesn't last so long.
Also, the body scrub IS abrasive...says so right on the Meguiars website:
http://www.meguiars.com/product_show...ne=CP&SrcCat=2
Did you mean the "Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner"? It says that is non-abrasive.
Anyway, just wanted to clairfy...Thanks.
June-20th-2002, 06:06 AM
#8
**Punani Lover**
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Hawaii (duh!)
Posts: 1,861
onehawaiian's 6-step process:
1) wash (meguiars)
2) dri-wash 'n guard (enviro-tech); polish and glaze
3) wax (meguiars gc)
4) admire
5) tell someone so they can help me admire.
6) post results on protegeclub.com
1) wash (meguiars)
2) dri-wash 'n guard (enviro-tech); polish and glaze
3) wax (meguiars gc)
4) admire
5) tell someone so they can help me admire.
6) post results on protegeclub.com
June-21st-2002, 01:52 AM
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Maryland
Posts: 38
Re: Long response
Originally posted by Pro_fan
4) Use very low adhesive tape and tape any sort of plastic trim that you do not want wax on. This 5 minute job will save you hours of headaches later.
4) Use very low adhesive tape and tape any sort of plastic trim that you do not want wax on. This 5 minute job will save you hours of headaches later.
Wax on black plastic is a huge pain.
June-21st-2002, 09:58 AM
#10
Mazdago 1931
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Finland
Posts: 296
Re: Re: Long response
Originally posted by Fez
LISTEN TO THIS MAN!!!
Wax on black plastic is a huge pain.
LISTEN TO THIS MAN!!!
Wax on black plastic is a huge pain.
because so that wax doesn't stick into those.But I agree, wax on a bare plastic is a real Pain
June-21st-2002, 10:00 AM
#11
Bruce Leroy
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Calgary, AB, Canada
Posts: 788
Yeah, but when you do get wax on bare plastic, here's a little trick. I used a regular vinyl eraser (the white little blocks) and literally erased away the residue! It worked great!
Also, believe it or not, peanut butter will get rid of wax residue! From what I've read, you just have to spread it over the affected plastic, leave it on for a few minutes, and then wipe up! Strange, but true!
Also, believe it or not, peanut butter will get rid of wax residue! From what I've read, you just have to spread it over the affected plastic, leave it on for a few minutes, and then wipe up! Strange, but true!
June-23rd-2002, 03:00 AM
#13
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: IA
Posts: 250
just "zainoed" my black mica last weekend. i could'nt believe the shine. and it get's better the more coats you apply. i highly suggest you check this stuff out. it's more expensive than wax but it looks better and lasts longer from what i've read.
http:www.zainobros.com
http:www.zainobros.com
June-23rd-2002, 01:19 PM
#14
Protege Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Murfreesboro, TN
Posts: 40
I recently performed the whole shebang on my baby with Meguiar's products. There were some problems with oxidation on her hood, roof, and trunk due to me being able to only wax it about twice a year and wash it every three weeks or so because I was away at college.
1.) I first washed it with dishwashing detergent to get rid of the old wax and whatnot on it.
2.)I then started out with the Deep Crystal System Paint Cleaner. I took a cloth to get rid of the oxidation and scratches in the bad spots, then took an applicator pad and took it to the rest of the car.
3.)I then used the Deep Crystal System Polish to give it that great shine. I have her two coats of this and made sure it was smooth and shiny. This was done with another applicator pad.
4.)I then put on their Gold Class liquid wax. I like this. I know some say it doesn't last long, but I don't like carnuba waxes or pastes, and this works well. Gave it a nice shine because it also has polish in it as well.
5.)I then used their Gold Class Trim Detailer on all the black molding on my car. Makes it look brand new.
6.)As for inbetween waxes, I now wash it at the manual car wash, since I live in an apartment, and shamie it afterwards, then use Meguiar's Quick Spray. It works well to keep the shine going.
I find that this process works well and I am pleased with it. I don't have any pics of it right after the process, but Shriley looked brand new. Got to take care of her.
Good luck with your process as there are many products out there.
1.) I first washed it with dishwashing detergent to get rid of the old wax and whatnot on it.
2.)I then started out with the Deep Crystal System Paint Cleaner. I took a cloth to get rid of the oxidation and scratches in the bad spots, then took an applicator pad and took it to the rest of the car.
3.)I then used the Deep Crystal System Polish to give it that great shine. I have her two coats of this and made sure it was smooth and shiny. This was done with another applicator pad.
4.)I then put on their Gold Class liquid wax. I like this. I know some say it doesn't last long, but I don't like carnuba waxes or pastes, and this works well. Gave it a nice shine because it also has polish in it as well.
5.)I then used their Gold Class Trim Detailer on all the black molding on my car. Makes it look brand new.
6.)As for inbetween waxes, I now wash it at the manual car wash, since I live in an apartment, and shamie it afterwards, then use Meguiar's Quick Spray. It works well to keep the shine going.
I find that this process works well and I am pleased with it. I don't have any pics of it right after the process, but Shriley looked brand new.
Got to take care of her. Good luck with your process as there are many products out there.
June-23rd-2002, 01:22 PM
#15
Protege Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 126
ProtegePower,
That's exactly the kind of response I was looking for.. quick summary of each step and simple. I found a place in Mississauga, Canada that offers Meguiar's Professional line of products... so I'll be using the FineCut Paint Cleaner followed by #7 which is the Polish and then #26 which is the Yellow Wax... Similar steps as you provided will be followed...
I can't wait to get my car.. was supposed to have it by now but looks like I'll have it sometime this week...
PJStyles
That's exactly the kind of response I was looking for.. quick summary of each step and simple. I found a place in Mississauga, Canada that offers Meguiar's Professional line of products... so I'll be using the FineCut Paint Cleaner followed by #7 which is the Polish and then #26 which is the Yellow Wax... Similar steps as you provided will be followed...
I can't wait to get my car.. was supposed to have it by now but looks like I'll have it sometime this week...
PJStyles