Total car audio newbie... install details
October-23rd-2002, 03:10 PM
#1
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 6
Total car audio newbie... install details
Hi all. Been lurking on the board for quite a while and now have a question for you guys.
I'm planning on getting an amp + speakers and keeping the stock HU. Not sure yet whether to get a 5 channel + sub or just a 4 channel.
Now my question is: what exactly is involved in installing something like this? I'm OK with working on my car but have never done anything audio-related. This is what I'm currently assuming. Please feel free to add to the list or make corrections as I really don't know what the hell I'm talking about.
- Take out stock HU and utilise wiring harness adapters to get speaker level outputs. (I believe there are two main companies that make both ends of this type of adapter????) I prefer not to cut any of the stock wiring. Replace stock HU.
- Run speaker level signal wires to the amp. This goes into the "speaker level" input on the amp.
- Run the output wires on the amp back to the other end of the wiring harness at the HU. Is this possible or would I have to run the individual output wires directly to each speaker?
- Connect power line from battery to amp. 8 gauge wire maybe? What kind of wire is typically used? And where to put the fuse? At the battery? (I told you I'm a newbie.
)
- Something to make the amp turn on and off. How do you accomplish this?
Thanks for any info. BTW this is literally all I know about car audio. I probably need to know about setting crossovers and other newbie stuff. I'll save that for another post.
I'm planning on getting an amp + speakers and keeping the stock HU. Not sure yet whether to get a 5 channel + sub or just a 4 channel.
Now my question is: what exactly is involved in installing something like this? I'm OK with working on my car but have never done anything audio-related. This is what I'm currently assuming. Please feel free to add to the list or make corrections as I really don't know what the hell I'm talking about.
- Take out stock HU and utilise wiring harness adapters to get speaker level outputs. (I believe there are two main companies that make both ends of this type of adapter????) I prefer not to cut any of the stock wiring. Replace stock HU.
- Run speaker level signal wires to the amp. This goes into the "speaker level" input on the amp.
- Run the output wires on the amp back to the other end of the wiring harness at the HU. Is this possible or would I have to run the individual output wires directly to each speaker?
- Connect power line from battery to amp. 8 gauge wire maybe? What kind of wire is typically used? And where to put the fuse? At the battery? (I told you I'm a newbie.
)- Something to make the amp turn on and off. How do you accomplish this?
Thanks for any info. BTW this is literally all I know about car audio. I probably need to know about setting crossovers and other newbie stuff. I'll save that for another post.
October-23rd-2002, 03:31 PM
#2
ZOOM ZOOM ZOOM!
Join Date: Jul 2002
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October-23rd-2002, 10:36 PM
#3
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: southeast texas, near houston
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Tickets....you are on the right track...by reading the posts here you probably know I did this very install....
the IDEAL setup would be to use the adapters you described...
yes you would run from the speaker output from the deck to the amp line INputs....then from the amp with the speaker outputs back to the harness you just installed
there is a AUXILIARY power wire going to your deck that is only how when the deck is ON...you would tap that for your AMP ON/OFF hot lead.....it too would be part of where you merge the two harnesses together...
as for the AMP power wire...for the typical 250-300 watt amp the 8 ga. power lead is standard...and with a 30 amp fuse....
put the fuse near the battery....if you get an AMP install kit, which typically run about $20, will have all you need, the power lead for the amp WITH a fuse, a nice beefy gound wire with connections, a ON/OFF wire.....and even something you WON'T need...the cable with the RCA jacks...just something extra to rat hole for later. :{D
Most of the amps that have adjustable gain and whatnot have instructions on how to set them up....
the IDEAL setup would be to use the adapters you described...
yes you would run from the speaker output from the deck to the amp line INputs....then from the amp with the speaker outputs back to the harness you just installed
there is a AUXILIARY power wire going to your deck that is only how when the deck is ON...you would tap that for your AMP ON/OFF hot lead.....it too would be part of where you merge the two harnesses together...
as for the AMP power wire...for the typical 250-300 watt amp the 8 ga. power lead is standard...and with a 30 amp fuse....
put the fuse near the battery....if you get an AMP install kit, which typically run about $20, will have all you need, the power lead for the amp WITH a fuse, a nice beefy gound wire with connections, a ON/OFF wire.....and even something you WON'T need...the cable with the RCA jacks...just something extra to rat hole for later. :{D
Most of the amps that have adjustable gain and whatnot have instructions on how to set them up....
October-24th-2002, 10:53 AM
#5
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 45
What I read somewhere is that placing the fuse 6 inches from the battery is preferable. Is that true?
What is the point of placing it that close?
Is it so that the fuse has a quicker reaction time? Or is it so that if you have a power surge go from the battery, that the fuse will stop it short instead of catching your wires on fire in the car?
Just was wondering.
What is the point of placing it that close?
Is it so that the fuse has a quicker reaction time? Or is it so that if you have a power surge go from the battery, that the fuse will stop it short instead of catching your wires on fire in the car?
Just was wondering.
October-24th-2002, 11:23 AM
#6
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Location: Palm Bay, FL
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I bought a Rockford Fosgate amp install kit and the fuse is part of the bracket that bolts right to the battery, so I am not sure that there is any required/recommended distance from the battery that the fuse should be....
October-24th-2002, 11:33 AM
#7
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: New Hampshire
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Fuse placement is recommended different by different source. MECP will say with in 12" an in the same book later say within 18". IASCA has always used the within 12" I believe.
Basicly you just want the fuse on the power wire before it goes through the fire wall. The shorter the distance to the battery the better. Mine are actualy built into my battery so they are with in 1". I'd say stay within 18" where ever the fuse is easiest to secure and you'll be fine.
Basicly you just want the fuse on the power wire before it goes through the fire wall. The shorter the distance to the battery the better. Mine are actualy built into my battery so they are with in 1". I'd say stay within 18" where ever the fuse is easiest to secure and you'll be fine.
October-24th-2002, 02:41 PM
#8
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Location: Troy, Michigan
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1st, With your experience I thought you could look at this hypothetical situation and confirm whether or not my thoughts are correct.
Suppose you wired from the battery through the interior to your amp in the trunk. Your inline fuse is not mounted near the battery but close to the amp in the trunk. After a while the power wire gets chafed where it passes through the firewall and shorts out to the sheetmetal. Would the fuse further down the line blow? Considering that there is no fuse between the battery and the short could this portion of the harness overheat, burn up and become an underhood or interior fire? I've always thought so and reasoned that's why it's recommended to have the fuse close to the battery.
Suppose you wired from the battery through the interior to your amp in the trunk. Your inline fuse is not mounted near the battery but close to the amp in the trunk. After a while the power wire gets chafed where it passes through the firewall and shorts out to the sheetmetal. Would the fuse further down the line blow? Considering that there is no fuse between the battery and the short could this portion of the harness overheat, burn up and become an underhood or interior fire? I've always thought so and reasoned that's why it's recommended to have the fuse close to the battery.
October-24th-2002, 07:13 PM
#9
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Originally posted by blue LEDz
i don't see why the fuse would blow. the amp still won't let the power through to blow it. the section from the battery to where it grounded out will burn up, and possibly catch fire. but it shouldn't travel past the grounded point.
i don't see why the fuse would blow. the amp still won't let the power through to blow it. the section from the battery to where it grounded out will burn up, and possibly catch fire. but it shouldn't travel past the grounded point.
October-24th-2002, 07:49 PM
#10
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Originally posted by Orange Crush
Which is why he was saying you put the fuse next to the battery, so that if it does short out, you don't burn your car to the ground.
Which is why he was saying you put the fuse next to the battery, so that if it does short out, you don't burn your car to the ground.
October-24th-2002, 09:18 PM
#11
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Originally posted by silver_p5_owner
Yes, that's precisely what I thought. If you don't fuse the line near the source any area between a source and a short will overheat and become a fire hazard. A fuse too far away from the source creates a hazard for the whole length of the line until it hits the fuse (which you put in line to "burn" before the rest of the wiring does.
Yes, that's precisely what I thought. If you don't fuse the line near the source any area between a source and a short will overheat and become a fire hazard. A fuse too far away from the source creates a hazard for the whole length of the line until it hits the fuse (which you put in line to "burn" before the rest of the wiring does.
October-24th-2002, 10:33 PM
#12
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 45
Originally posted by 1st MP3 in NH
A fuse by the battery is to protect the power wire. The fuse wouldn't blow in the situation you described. The car will prabably catch fire though. I knew a few retards in HS that actualy lit there cars ablaze. Every time it was becuase they didn't have a fuse under the hood. If the wire were to get cut in the fire wall without an inline fuse the sparking and discharge, also heat, would either cause a fire or if your realy lucky just continue sparking like hell until the battery was drained.
A fuse by the battery is to protect the power wire. The fuse wouldn't blow in the situation you described. The car will prabably catch fire though. I knew a few retards in HS that actualy lit there cars ablaze. Every time it was becuase they didn't have a fuse under the hood. If the wire were to get cut in the fire wall without an inline fuse the sparking and discharge, also heat, would either cause a fire or if your realy lucky just continue sparking like hell until the battery was drained.
Good to know why instead of just knowing that you have to do it.
October-24th-2002, 11:02 PM
#13
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Originally posted by Monster8
Hehe! fun!
Good to know why instead of just knowing that you have to do it.
Hehe! fun!
Good to know why instead of just knowing that you have to do it.
BTW Thanks 1st, appreciate your reply.
Last edited by silver_p5_owner; October-25th-2002 at 12:08 AM.
October-25th-2002, 10:20 AM
#14
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Originally posted by silver_p5_owner
1st, With your experience I thought you could look at this hypothetical situation and confirm whether or not my thoughts are correct.
Suppose you wired from the battery through the interior to your amp in the trunk. Your inline fuse is not mounted near the battery but close to the amp in the trunk. After a while the power wire gets chafed where it passes through the firewall and shorts out to the sheetmetal. Would the fuse further down the line blow? Considering that there is no fuse between the battery and the short could this portion of the harness overheat, burn up and become an underhood or interior fire? I've always thought so and reasoned that's why it's recommended to have the fuse close to the battery.
1st, With your experience I thought you could look at this hypothetical situation and confirm whether or not my thoughts are correct.
Suppose you wired from the battery through the interior to your amp in the trunk. Your inline fuse is not mounted near the battery but close to the amp in the trunk. After a while the power wire gets chafed where it passes through the firewall and shorts out to the sheetmetal. Would the fuse further down the line blow? Considering that there is no fuse between the battery and the short could this portion of the harness overheat, burn up and become an underhood or interior fire? I've always thought so and reasoned that's why it's recommended to have the fuse close to the battery.
GROMMETS keep the wires from rubbing when you do a correct power wire install thur the firewall
October-25th-2002, 10:26 AM
#15
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On the same topic of the fuse being 12 inches from the batt you also need to make sure that the type of fuse you are using is sitting with the skinny narrow inner fuse on its thickest side so that the metal will break and fall not just droop down inside the fuse, so place it (--~-~--~-) looking sidways, not (=====) looking at from the side.
Hope you all know what I mean.
Hope you all know what I mean.