Sorry
Thread Starter
Protege Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 116
I will probably go with a type S, I don't no why they offered type R. And I like a good bass, but in a car I don't know. My experince is with home systems which are ported. I don't want the car to shake.
I read into these amp ratings at 14.4v compared to 12V. And you made sense. I should of known this since I am an Engineer. That is why I changed my amp. I will get 50 rms, and that is what I was looking for to begin with. With the other one I would probably get 35rms like you said.
I read into these amp ratings at 14.4v compared to 12V. And you made sense. I should of known this since I am an Engineer. That is why I changed my amp. I will get 50 rms, and that is what I was looking for to begin with. With the other one I would probably get 35rms like you said.
Show Layne some respect
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,458
From: Long Island,NY
Good of you to come around, gg. And kudos to Blue to still be willing to help yo' azz 
. All kidding aside, hopefully there will be some better communication and more respect from everyone involved.
That said, it is important to realize that the car audio environment is drastically different from home or pro audio. Often, a small ported subwoofer with relatively low power is excellent for the home. But in a car, it may not even be audible.
One of the things to remember is that an automobile has a tremendous noise floor compared to a home, and much of the noise is low-to-middle frequency. A great example of the effect this has is with many stock audio systems. Plenty of the higher-end car audio systems from the factory sound excellent - many even have some super bass reproduction. That is, of course, until you start driving. And then open a window. And then open the moonroof (or drop the top, should you be lucky). Nearly all factory audio systems fall flat on their cones once all the excess noise is introduced, and even a very mild aftermarket system can suffer from the same maladies.
The only remedy is more power. Sound deadening helps, too - but you can't make a car anywhere near as quiet as a home.
This is one reason why more power is always better in car audio. You say you "don't want the car to shake", but unless you get at least SOME bass vibration through the vehicle, you won't "hear" the bass at all. In a car especially, much of the bass needs to be "felt" to be "heard", if you know what I mean. You don't need to be heard a mile away. But to get the bass to your ears, you need to stop thinking in home audio terms. The ambient noise in a car makes more power something of a necessity.
And just something to keep in mind - more power is always better. Just like in a car engine. A 130 HP Protege and a 405 HP Corvette Z06 can both do 0 to 60 in 9 seconds. But which one is straining more to do it? One car is pushed nearly to its limits, while the other can do all that and then some. Which drivetrain will last longer if this type of acceleration is done every day? The same is true in audio - with more power, your system does not have to work as hard to acheive the same sound levels. And the result is a more reliable, durable, better sounding system.
The adage is, always buy as much power as you can afford.
~HH
. All kidding aside, hopefully there will be some better communication and more respect from everyone involved.That said, it is important to realize that the car audio environment is drastically different from home or pro audio. Often, a small ported subwoofer with relatively low power is excellent for the home. But in a car, it may not even be audible.
One of the things to remember is that an automobile has a tremendous noise floor compared to a home, and much of the noise is low-to-middle frequency. A great example of the effect this has is with many stock audio systems. Plenty of the higher-end car audio systems from the factory sound excellent - many even have some super bass reproduction. That is, of course, until you start driving. And then open a window. And then open the moonroof (or drop the top, should you be lucky
). Nearly all factory audio systems fall flat on their cones once all the excess noise is introduced, and even a very mild aftermarket system can suffer from the same maladies.The only remedy is more power. Sound deadening helps, too - but you can't make a car anywhere near as quiet as a home.
This is one reason why more power is always better in car audio. You say you "don't want the car to shake", but unless you get at least SOME bass vibration through the vehicle, you won't "hear" the bass at all. In a car especially, much of the bass needs to be "felt" to be "heard", if you know what I mean. You don't need to be heard a mile away. But to get the bass to your ears, you need to stop thinking in home audio terms. The ambient noise in a car makes more power something of a necessity.
And just something to keep in mind - more power is always better. Just like in a car engine. A 130 HP Protege and a 405 HP Corvette Z06 can both do 0 to 60 in 9 seconds. But which one is straining more to do it? One car is pushed nearly to its limits, while the other can do all that and then some. Which drivetrain will last longer if this type of acceleration is done every day? The same is true in audio - with more power, your system does not have to work as hard to acheive the same sound levels. And the result is a more reliable, durable, better sounding system.
The adage is, always buy as much power as you can afford.
~HH
**Punani Lover**
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,861
From: Hawaii (duh!)
sweet. i love it when adults can play in the same sandbox...
ur alpine system will rok.
throw some sound deadening and u'll be set.
question tho, being a musician and all, do u feel later on down the road u'll be wanting an all out sq setup? or is music in ur ride not terribly important?
home audio can get expensive, and i'm assuming ur home setup is totally nutz, do u figure on moving in that direction with ur ride? not that alpine wouldn't do it for u, i just know true musicians and home audio enthusiasts can get quite picky on their systems...
just curious.
ur alpine system will rok.
throw some sound deadening and u'll be set.
question tho, being a musician and all, do u feel later on down the road u'll be wanting an all out sq setup? or is music in ur ride not terribly important?
home audio can get expensive, and i'm assuming ur home setup is totally nutz, do u figure on moving in that direction with ur ride? not that alpine wouldn't do it for u, i just know true musicians and home audio enthusiasts can get quite picky on their systems...
just curious.
Thread Starter
Protege Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 116
Your right on power. I was toying with the idea to get good power, but didn't thing I would need it. I thought it over and I would rather have true 50 rms to each of the front speakers then go with a 40rms at 14.4V which will be a true 30rms.
This system will be it. I am not going to spend more money on more then this. I've spent enough on home audio, amps, guitars. I have a family to support. Plus I need a Sub for my home audio system as well.
This system will be it. I am not going to spend more money on more then this. I've spent enough on home audio, amps, guitars. I have a family to support. Plus I need a Sub for my home audio system as well.