I need an amp to run with my 2 JL Audio 10w3's. Any suggestions. I want the maximum output of these subs, and NO ROCKFORD. I owned one Rockford and there is so much more available on the market that is more bang for the buck. Any suggestions give them my way.

 

get a JL amp then. They are awesome amps for the price. What was wrong with your rockford? I would only buy rockfod and JL now.

 

How about Xtant? http://www.xtant.com/html/

 

DEI - Directed Audio make kick *** amps
http://www.directed.com

 

one of the best bang for your buck amps the mighty jbl 1200.1 for less than $300 it is a 1200 watt rms amp wich should nock your subs hard. oh look for it on ebay.

 

Are you sure its 1200W RMS? That is amazing for $300. That means that there is 1200W going out constantly. RMS is constant and consistant power. Its probably 1200W max, peak power. You may be right though.

 

yup 1200+ rms at 1-2ohms just like my amp is 1200 watts rms but only at 1ohm i have a cadence A7hc.
Holly **** price went down again!!!
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI...tem=1334780155
I think i might have to buy one just for a spare amp awsome price go here and ask about it.
http://www.termpro.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi

 

1200 watts RMS at 1 ohm is 300 watts RMS at 4 ohms. 1200 watts at 2 ohms is 600 watts RMS at 4 ohms. Very few amps can truly deliver the amount of current required to drive a 1 ohm load without overheating or clipping. Especially since speakers provide a dynamic resistance to the amplifiers' output transistors, not static resistance. Dynamic resistance means the rated 4ohm resistance of most speakers varies depending on the frequency of the signal. For example, a 1K Hertz signal might see a 3.9 ohm resistance, while a 60 Hertz signal might see a 2 ohm resistance. Also wiring speakers in parallel to get a 1 or 2 ohm load to the amps output transistors draws more current because of the lower load, that leaves less headroom in most amps so even though you are getting more power from the amp, short term dynamic notes like a bass drum won't have the same punch they would with more headroom from the amp.

 

actually that amp will deliver 600+ rms into 4ohms and will easily do 1200+ rms at 1 or 2ohms ask anyone Here

 

While that maybe all true, but you'd be drawing well over 100amps of current. Will your 65amp wimpy alternator sizzle and fry before it gets you to 1200watts RMS output?????

Who's got the marshmellows????

I drive a 1 ohm load with a mono amp rated at 600watts RMS...i doubt i ever see more than 300 to 350watts even at full volume and just under clipping. With a 90amp alt, I just don't have the current to supply such output.

 

This are my choice...

 

I personally like JL Audio equipment alot, I had a JBL Powervalve 300.1 and then went to a JL Audio 500/1 and then sold the JL Audio amp and then used my Powervalve for a short period of time and then decided how much I missed my JL Audio 500/1 and bought another one..

The JL Audio amp is a WONDERFUL sub amp, its just not cheap and it does draw alot of current.. it definitely benefits alot from a capacitor.. before I had the cap it had a noticable "lag" to it..

The JL Audio amp has *so much* control, and it's all very usable with a very good physical interface.. it has awesome filters and some of the best screw downs (the hex style) to keep the speaker, power, and ground wires in place..

the JBL powervalve series is nice and cheap but isn't of the same caliber of the JL Audio amps.. it lacks the amount of adjustability of the JL, it sounded plenty clean but it really didn't have that much output (then again, the JBL 300.1 was only 150x1 @ 4ohm which is how i was running it)

JL Audio was supposed to release a 1000/1 but I don't think they have yet and its honestly overkill anyway.. but I've heard the JL amp with 2 12 w 6's and it sounded great i'm sure with w3's (those are more efficient anyway I think?) it would be just as good..

 

Darryl, have you ever heard of a servo drive subwoofer/amplifier application for the mobile environment? I'm mostly just curious whether this exists in the mobile environment. I know a bit more about home audio than mobile audio, but most of it transfers. I've seen and heard several of these for the home environment, and their performance is excellent. I know it's expensive, but for what some people are spending on mobile systems, it's not out of reach. The high power/large subwoofer mobile systems would seem to gain tremendously from this technology, but I haven't heard of it being used in cars yet. I haven't really looked though, so it could be in use, and I just don't know.

 

Can anyone suggest a good place to tap the ground wire for amp installations in the trunk area of the P5? I heard we should sand away some paint to expose bare metal... or is there a better way?

Thanks.

 

Nope best way is to expose some bare metal drill a hole and use a self tapp and get a good ground you will thank yourself in the future trust me i have fried an amp from a bad ground.