Rookie Oil Question
#16
That's too thick, even if it's 100F outside every day. You get more wear while cranking and warming up because the thick 20W is slower getting to the bearings. 50W is too thick and will leave the bearings dry (ouch!) when you spin up high RPMs. If you drive an old Detroit belcher, then your mechanics are probably right, but not for your high-tech rice burner. That'll turn yours into an early smoker for sure.
It should have a little more spunk with thinner oil too. If you change, and it starts burning oil, then I guess you're stuck with the thick stuff.
It should have a little more spunk with thinner oil too. If you change, and it starts burning oil, then I guess you're stuck with the thick stuff.
Last edited by Rusty; December-19th-2005 at 08:59 PM.
#20
I think I may make the switch when I change oil next. I noticed something though, the oil level's over the f mark and on mornings the gas pedal is kinda stiff. Not really stiff but noticeable. I usually had this problem when my injectors were clogged and that time it was really stiff but it started out like how it did now. I got 'em cleaned and I've been using a gas treatment in my car at every fill up. That stopped the stiffness and gave me back alot of power! Could this be the injectores again or is it because of the oil?
#21
less likely the injectors, more likely the throttle plate. If it's carboned-up, it could cause the pedal to be hard to press. It could also be the cable. They make a spray graphite lube with a needle tip that can be sprayed into the cable housing, you might try that, too. The oil will have nothing to do with it.
#23
I like 3M throttle plate cleaner, it's basically spray carburetor cleaner, but it's "safe" for EFI throttle plates, which supposedly have some kind of coating on them. Apparently the coating can be damaged by plain carburetor cleaner. I've always used the 3m stuff, so I can't say whether carb cleaner will actually do any damage.
If you can't find 3M, there are other brands, though I don't know what you're going to find on the island.
I take the air inlet tube off the throttle body, spray the cleaner on the throttle plate, open it by hand and scrub it with a soft toothbrush. Spray it with cleaner to rinse it off, if there's any carbon left behind, spray it down again and clean with the toothbrush until it looks clean. Clean the throttle body inside where the plate opens and closes in the same manner. You may want to wait for some of the cleaner to evaporate before you start your car, cause it might smoke a bit. If the throttle pedal is hard to push after cleaning, it's probably the throttle cable.
Here's a link to the 3m product page. http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/e...er/output_html
If you can't find 3M, there are other brands, though I don't know what you're going to find on the island.
I take the air inlet tube off the throttle body, spray the cleaner on the throttle plate, open it by hand and scrub it with a soft toothbrush. Spray it with cleaner to rinse it off, if there's any carbon left behind, spray it down again and clean with the toothbrush until it looks clean. Clean the throttle body inside where the plate opens and closes in the same manner. You may want to wait for some of the cleaner to evaporate before you start your car, cause it might smoke a bit. If the throttle pedal is hard to push after cleaning, it's probably the throttle cable.
Here's a link to the 3m product page. http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/e...er/output_html
Last edited by pass the peas; December-26th-2005 at 12:35 PM.
#24
Damn, I never got that 3m cleaner here and I ordered it but I never got it! My mechanic used a carburetor cleaner to clean it. I think it was amsoil or something like that that. I guess I'll just buy another can and clean it with that and see how that helps. Should I clean the air inlet tube with the cleaner as well?
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