ZackyFarms16

Same way i was. My expirience Exaxctly

Pro_fan

Hi all. I'm new to this board. I've got an '01 5 spd, LX 2.0 (Canadian model) with ABS, a/c, and power locks. I've had my Pro for just under 6 months now.
I too have experienced this "rocking." The times that I've had it happen to me was when I was making a left turn into a parking lot and slowing down to go over a speed bump. What I do now is depress the clutch if I get to very low speeds.
I would like to move into first gear in these instances, but it is very difficult (at times) to gear down from 2nd to 1st unless the car is at a near stand-still. Has anybody else experienced this difficulty in shifting from 2nd to first? Is this a known problem? Should I see the dealer?

jmauld

Put it in neutral, release the clutch, pat the gas, press the clutch and shift to first. Do this quickly and it should go into 1st gear.

exmiataman

Actually, you should be able to just blip the throttle to match revs right before engaging the clutch. With modern transmissions, there's no need to double clutch.

Pro_fan

Thanks. I actually already do the rev-matching to gear down. Just wondering why it would be so hard go from 2nd to 1st.

exmiataman

There's a lockout on first gear so you can't just jam it in there and toast your motor. It's hard to get into first unless the rev match is just right.

jmauld

The synchros will do a real good job of hindering you from downshifting when there's a big difference between engine speed and transmission speed, but there's not a TRUE lockout built into the transmission. Except for the lockout from 5 to reverse.

Like exmiataman said, you don't have to double clutch a newer transmission, because synchros do such a good job these days. The thing to remember is that synchros are a wear item. The more you use them, the quicker they will wear out (especially when downshifting from 2 to 1). When you double clutch you're not using the synchros. However, chances are, most people will never own a car to the point that the synchros wear out.

DBR

for people who think the p5 bucks, rocks, jerks, etc at slow speeds....read on.

i finally drove an mp3 today. the bucking isn't there.

another site suggests the only difference in the p5 and mp3 is the ignition timing:

http://www.protegemp3.com/cgi-bin/ut...c&f=3&t=000729

so i'd guess the timing on the p5 is retarded at idle for ultra-low emissions reasons, compared to the mp3.

the car idles at retarded timing. step slightly on the gas, it suddenly advances (surges ahead). take the foot off the gas, and it suddenly retards (bogs).

reminds me of my 1970 datsun 510. it had 2 sets of points, one set adjusted for normal advanced timing, and a second set adjusted for retarded timing. the normal set was engaged all the time, except when the car was idling or when the car was driving in third gear at moderate throttle (ie city driving) when the retarded set was engaged. pretty crude emissions control by today's standards.

anyway, i thought i'd pass this on for those trying to figure out the problem. assuming this is the problem, any suggestions on the cheapest solution? thanks.

(sorry the link doesn't seem to be working. can't figure out why.)

DBR

under my p5 hood, there's a sticker that says the timing at idle is 10 degrees BTDC (when at idle with the test gauge connected).
can someone with an mp3 please let me know what your sticker says.
if it says 10 degrees BTDC, i promise i'll go shoot myself.

Unzipped

I had the same problem in my Pro5 (along with a few others you'll see scattered throughout the site) and I'll have to say that the reprogramming they performed on my car on 3/6/02 has definetly smoothed out the bucking I get when at low speeds.

Might want to look into that one... Now i'm hoping they can fix the rest.

DBR

thanks for the info. can you let me know the phone number of the dealership/shop that reprogrammed the computer. i'd like to ask them what they did. everyone's been telling me it's a sealed unit, with no adjustable features. thanks.

carguycw

You can go shoot yourself That sticker refers to the ignition timing *at idle*, not while running.

Engines need more ignition timing advance at higher engine speeds for more power. Also, advancing the timing during low-load / light-throttle conditions will increase gas mileage and decrease emissions by allowing the engine to run more efficiently. All modern cars incorporate some sort of mechanism to advance the timing dynamically while you drive, depending on rpm, load and throttle position, in order to optimize power, gas mileage and emissions. In old cars like the 510, this was done using weights and springs in the distributor. In your Pro, the timing is constantly adjusted by the ECU.

The MP3 uses a different ECU which adjusts the timing differently based on driving conditions. Most likely, the MP3 ECU doesn't advance the timing as much during low-rpm, light-throttle operation because Mazda figures MP3 buyers aren't as concerned about fuel mileage. Hence, no "buck" when you get back on the gas.

Hope this explains things a bit

carguycw

Try replacing the stock transmission oil with Redline MT-90. This will also make your gear shifting better in general.

Mxyzptlk

AM I the only one who thought this was a thread that Proteges rocked as in Metallica rocks?

I noticed mine also rocks but I just learned to drive standard last month. I figured it was just me learning still.

blades242

Ive got the "rocking" too. If were talking about the same thing, i think that either the clutch hub is sprung WAY too soft, or the engine mounts are too soft. In fact it seems like the engine flops around so much that it makes my Bosal exhaust smack the underside of the car sometimes...What do you guys think? anybody agree?