JET ECU Upgrade
 

Anyone else seen this at NOPI?

JET - V-Force Power Control Module - w/o Turbo - 20mhz RISC microprocessor optimizes the ignition spark advance and recalibrates the fuel map for optimum horsepower and acceleration

$203

Any comments? What kind of performance increase are we looking at here from this?

Performance Chip?
 

Does anyone know if there is a aftermarket ecu for the Protege5?

None that I'm aware of.

Doesn't anybody read my posts around here???


Geez...

There's a thread I posted below about the Jet ECU upgrade chip available at NOPI.
It's like $203 or something... www.nopionline.com

Gotcha, thanks!! That's the kind of feedback I was looking for...

There are stand alone chips like Haltek. HKS and A'Pex make some "universal" ECUs. Don't expect any of these to be cheap. Corksport was going to make an upgrade chip through superchips. Also, you COULD get the MP3 ECU from the dealer

Jesse,

Would a "piggyback" ecu mod be able to override the ECU at WOT (that's what corksport was trying to get from superchips). I know something like the S-AFC will not and a stand alone like Haltek will.

Does the Mazda ECU have a socketed EPROM, or is it soldered in the ECU? I was under the impression the Mazda ECU didn't use a socketed Eprom that could just be replaced.

Mp3 ecu
 

While we are on the subject of our ecu I was wondering if the Mp3 would respond better to mods since their ecu is recaibrated differently. Would it be worth getting?

The MP3 ecu is probably just slightly more agressive with spark timing advance, requiring premium fuel. I doubt it would respond much differently to most bolt on mods. Having some adjustability so you could tune the engine to it's best performance with any given mods would be best, but expensive.

What about chips that kill the governor????





___________
Pinguoo
'00 lx

I think for any car with NA engines (non-turbo), changing the ECU won't provide much gains (at least not worth the money). For turbo-charged cars, it can add up to 30+ hp with just an ECU swap! So unless we turbo charged our P5s first (which would be wonderful), there won't be much significant gains by an ECU change.

an idea..maybe?
 

I was just thinking...if this PCM only increases HP/TQ at partial throttle and not WOT...then, when combined with the FS-ZE cams...couldnt one expect to have a consistent power gain along the whole RPM band?

Also...what do you mean by "bad fuel economy"? Are you suggesting that the engine will use more fuel to make power? In my experience, the adding of fuel (richening) unless accompanied by some forced induction method...leads to poorer performance and less power, not to mention a dirty tailpipe.
It is when the engine runs on a slightly leaner mixture of air/fuel that the power increases (less fuel, more air) ...of course there is a limit on leaning out your air/fuel mixture...you dont want to have detonation because you are not injecting enough fuel into the cylinder.

If this PCM does indeed increase the power of your engine...I am willing to say that it does it by leaning out your air/fuel mixture just a little bit (well within safe operational guidelines). So, then I wonder how it could be causing poor gas mileage if you are running leaner with it.

Please inform me if someone is positive I am incorrect in this speculation.
:bt:

Ok let me be more specific: How about chips that kill the governor on a '00 lx auto. ????? :rolleyes:








pinguoo
___________
'00 lx blk

Thanks for the re-word :D ...what are your thoughts on the combination of the FS-ZE cams+PCM?

I'm not sure exactly how the Jet V force works, but from the very limited description they gave on their website, it sounds similar to what Mazda did with the MP3's ECU. They advance spark timing and attempt to optimize the air/fuel ratio to increase power slightly. I'm a little confused by your references to having a 'richer' or 'leaner' fuel mixture, and whether one or the other produces more or less power. I've attached the definitions of stoichiometric combustion and air fuel ratio below. Basically there is a theorectically perfect mixture of air and fuel which results in perfect combustion. When you refer to running 'rich' I assume you mean more fuel than stoich, and when you refer to 'lean' I assume you mean more air than stoich. Running at stoich should provide the most complete combustion, and therefore the best power, so running leaner or richer than stoich would produce less power, not more. Running slightly leaner than stoich could improve your mileage slightly if you could achieve it without detonation because of increased heat. Running at exactly stoich air/fuel ratio across the entire RPM range would provide the best power, but is currently impossible to do. If you've ever seen an air/fuel gauge in operation you'll notice it usually bounces back and forth from lean to rich as the ECU responds to sensor inputs and adjusts the air/fuel ratio.

Stoichiometric Combustion:

Stoichiometric or Theoretical Combustion is the ideal combustion process during which a fuel is burned completely. A complete combustion is a process which burns all the carbon (C) to (CO2), all hydrogen (H) to (H2O) and all sulfur (S) to (SO2). If there are unburned components in the exhaust gas such as C, H2, CO the combustion process is uncompleted.

Air-Fuel Ratio:

Air-Fuel Ratio is frequently used in the analysis of the combustion process. It is usually expressed on a mass basis, i.e.
AF=(mass of Air)/(mass of Fuel)

Does this mean that we MP3 owners should be using 93 octane in our cars? I know in another thread posted we were talking about the hype of fuel and that our little cars run better on the lower stuff. I'm confused.:confused: I started out using 93 but since have changed because of the discussion in here, please help me out here.:dunno:

Yes...you are correct about the most power coming when the engine is running at stoich rather than rich or lean....however....all cars dont naturally run at STOICH all the time. I would say that most engines run a little bit on the richer side to make for a smooth idle that will comfort the potential buyer. That being said, the PCM, by leaning out the fuel mixture could bring the engine closer to STOICH, therefore causing a more efficient burn and thus resulting in an increase in power.

This is my experience with engines...but keep in mind that I am fairly new to the traits of Mazda built engines.:bt:

Use what's recommended in your owners manual.

I'm N/A and I NEED an ECU
 

I read a post saying that an ECU isn't worth the $ if you're N/A. Don't for get about us with swapped engines. :D My fs-ze is not anywhere near potential because it's running on my stock ECU for my old 1.8L engine. I need something that will correct the fuel maps and ignition in all conditions, espically at WOT! Any "economical" suggestions? Corksport is trying to find a vendor now (or so they say). Superchips told corksport they need 4-6 months before they can get to it.

Derrick (corksport) told me that he didn't like Jet V and questioned their work for whatever reason. :confused:

I guess we could import the sport 20 ECU. Anyone know how to make or get a custom wiring harness?

Re: I'm N/A and I NEED an ECU
 

Jeremy, have you installed an air/fuel gauge yet? I think that might be helpful to you with the FS-ZE swap to determine if the engine is running rich or lean, and under what conditions. Remember, you don't have access to the same gas the FS-ZE engine and ECU were designed for, so your ECU requirements may be different.


[QUOTE]Originally posted by eeterp
[B]I read a post saying that an ECU isn't worth the $ if you're N/A. Don't for get about us with swapped engines. :D My fs-ze is not anywhere near potential because it's running on my stock ECU for my old 1.8L engine. I need something that will correct the fuel maps and ignition in all conditions, espically at WOT!

leaner not lean
 

:bt: Greddy917

Most modern automotive engines run on the rich side of stoichiometric. In addition to smoother idle, as Greddy917 mentioned, running rich also reduces knock. By programming a rich fuel curve, the engine operates under safer conditions. Even when reprogrammed, the curves are still typically rich, but not as rich as stock. Becuase of this, conversations about running lean or rich become a bit skewed. "lean" is still on the rich side of stoich, but leaner than stock.

I was referring to optimum engine performance. If the stock 1.8L ECU works, I'm certain the FS-ZE ECU would also, but it still may not get the most out of the FS-ZE engine running on US premium gas. The knock sensor is definately a benefit, but if you're ECU ignition curve is causing the engine to detonate, and the knock sensor retards the timing to compensate, you're obviously not getting the most performance out of the engine.

I'll look into getting an air/fuel gauge but, how do I determine if I'm rich or lean. Do you need to input stock settings, does it read them from the stock ecu, or something else?

Do you know how to get a custom harness? I may call mazdamotorsports because they have a few harnesses. I just don't know exactly what each one is used for.

The air/fuel gauge reads the voltage from the O2 sensor. The gauge itself has a mark in the middle for stoichiometric, with rich or lean on either side. The gauge normally moves back and forth from rich to lean very quickly as the ECU adjusts for sensor readings. What you're looking for is excessive movement towards rich or lean, or extended periods of time in either condition.

I agree Air/Fuel guages are typically inaccurate, however, they are good for noticing changes, operating outside the norm. As Eric F had mentioned, running too long on one side or another. I've never priced an Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT) gauge, but assummed they were rather costly (I don't know why I assummed that, it's just another temp guage). Definitely worth it if you plan to do much tuning though. I don't see much utilitity with either gauge if you don't have the ability to modify your A/F ratio through fuel system controls.

For those that plan on getting an OBDII scanner, there is an A/F reading on AutoTap (don't know if it's on the OBD-2 software). On my other car at least, the A/F displayed is what the computer is shooting for, not actual. To get an A/F reading that the ECU is recieving look at the 02 sensor voltage. . . again 02 voltage not as accurate at EGT.

I agree... I had BOTH on my GVR4 and would recommend to use both. Of course... if you are NA I think that it is superflews. The EGT will be more expensive and in order to use/install it, you will have to drill a hole into your exhaust manifold...then tap it to match the NPT on your exhaust temp probe. Placement of the probe is crucial too for an accurate reading. The A/F guage will just tap into your O2 sensor wire...no biggie in comparison. For a boosted car these are a MUST.
I must admit...I see both these on many NA Hondas...it pisses me off because I know that they are for show not go. Honda racers...go figure :dunno:

So after all that's been said, should I get the chip or not? :dunno:


:p

If you've got the money, go for it! Hell, it MAY be worth it to you. Let us know what you think. Maybe the WOT thing isn't all that bad.

Go for it!!!
 

I am definitely interested to hear how you car responds to the PCM if you get it...I am also considering buying it.