Motor mounts
 

So I think it's about time I inspected/replaced the stock motor mounts on my P5, and I was just inquiring about what I should look for. My car's got a little over 50K miles now, so they're probably close to being shot. The couples questions I have are:

1. How many are there? 2 sides, front, and rear?
2. Where are they at?!
3. What should I look for to determine whether they need replacement or not.

i saw a pic of a torn mount on another forum. kinda hard to tell if you dont have good lighting under the car. i looked under mine for the front and rear mounts and were easy to find. the side ones needed a harder look. i'll try to look for diagram/pics

all i know is the front one is 5 minute job.. rear is PITA

Yep.
Four mounts.
At 50K with any 'spirited driving' they are probably shot... Excessive wheel hop, engine moves around easily, and 'lag' as the mounts lash up under accelration are the symptoms. Torn rubber is the visual indication for the sides.

There is a new kinder/gentler upgraded mount than AWR and others have been using the Diesel (yep) motor mounts from Europe.

My AWRs have settled down and do a good job. At first they made everything in the car resonate!

I definitely don't want anything that's gonna make the shaking and rattling any worse than it already is. I'll have to take a look this weekend when I have some free time, thanks mate.

SLS Performance is beginning to offer motor mounts in which both vibration and driveline slop are minimized, although they currently offer only front and passenger side mounts.

People report that Street Unit (hey, no asterisks!!) mounts, at a mild 62A durometer, do well, although I think it's hard to get the side mounts/the company may be uncooperative, whatever. Don't want to slam anyone, I just heard some stories.

I have the SLS mount up front, the MSP side mount, will install AWR side inserts, and either an SU or SLS rear--depending on how long it takes for SLS to release their rear mount. Check out SLS--they seem to be doing things right.

sls ftw. the street unit mounts are made from billet aluminum, and may bend or break. go with awr or sls. awr even makes a disclaimer about the street unit mounts being subpar. so if you go with them be careful

omg I'm telling! you said "street unit" lolz

yeah someone let me know when SLS releases another mount, since I can't exactly receive PMs over yonder anymore.

i might. for a fee.

Doubt SU will break. They look to be built well--solid billet aluminum

AWR is aware there are other companies now out there which are selling 'pretty' engine mounts, that are cheaper than our mounts. While we strive to make a nice looking product, function is our primary goal.

These other mounts, while shiny and pretty, use a really soft urethane bushing, which will not come close to stopping your driveline lash.

If you just want your hidden mounts to be pretty, then you can buy the other mounts, but if you truly want a performance mount, then there is no substitute for the AWR mount with stiff urethane bushings.

Manufactured with stiff urethane bushings instead of rubber encased in a gold zinc bracket. Our softest 70 durometer urethane, yet still provides much more motion control than stock mounts.

Recommended for Automatic transmission model or for manual transmission if you don't want the stiffer 88 or 95 durometer mounts. Helps stop drivetain lash (rocking) when transitioning from gas on to gas off. Includes left and right (near radiator and firewall) engine mounts in urethane (39-040/050). Can be used on Automatic or Manual transmissions. Bushings are also available separately and inexpensively.
:p

"i am just a doggy poo!!"

anybody try rr-racing's engine mount inserts? there is a little bit of discussion here and there but nothing definite. just interested in knowing if installation is any easier and what kind of results people are getting vs. the AWR or other brands. the inserts are only $55 for both front and rear so they look like an awesomely priced alternative.

The install is easier for the rear, but for the front it's no easier. I had the rr racing rear inserts with a 70 durometer insert in my AWR front mount and the vibration was too much even for me.

:)

I had the AWR front and side inserts on my MSP. I had good luck with them but if I had it to do over again I would've bought the entire mount instead of just an insert for the sides. AWR stuff is the way I'd go. I trust them from my experience with them.

I need to start paying more attention to the protege :(

70k miles, still on stock shocks (gone now, like riding on springs only)
still on stock motor mounts
warped brake rotors

what durometer are your mounts? you have the front , rear , and side inserts all awr right?

they wont bend or break. if they would bend or break then they wouldnt have released them. thats what took so long for them to come out, TESTING. there have already been sls side mounts that broke, not the bushing, but the metal itself. i have the front in now and about to do the rear. sides will be out soon. of course awr is going to make the disclaimer, they obviously want you to buy THEIRS and not Street Units. If you want to rattle your car go awr. if you want good mounts that are also good enough to be used on a daily driver, so Street Unit

^^ the only SLS mount that broke was a prototype mount, unless you know something I don't.

I've seen my fair share of 3rd gen Protege race cars and I know that not a single one featured 'street unit' mounts. Shiny billet aluminium < solid steel.

The reason the street unit mounts are comfortable for daily driving is that they have the softest inserts out of any mount I've seen, aside from maybe the stock mounts (though when new, the stock mounts 'feel' pretty stiff.

they aren't on race cars for a reason. race car mounts will rattle the hell out of the car and for a daily driver that isn't what you need. if you are trying to build a race car then yes, go awr and have the shit rattled out of your car, but then again, if you are using it as a race car it doesn't matter about the vibrations out the wahzoo.

That's a decent point. I still have my stock ones, and I find my car has alot of vibration as is. I'm willing to sacrifice some performance to keep it comfortable.

good point... i can live w/ the rattles :bigthumb: - of course, i cant hear any rattles over my exhaust.

Or get the SLS mounts that have much stiffer rubber than the Street Unit mounts without sacrificing anything (holds the engine firmly in place without vibrations)

not sure 75 is even stiff enough for a race car.

sls only has the front and side. no rear yet. if they had their rear out already i would have gotten theirs but SU already has rear and front. sides (both) should be out soon.

Never said it was stiff enough for a race car.. that's what AWR is for.

So if the front and rear mounts are the ones by the radiator and firewall, where are the side mounts located? Are side mounts or inserts available for the 1.6 liter ZM-DE?

Side mounts are near the strut towers.. in front of them. Driver's side holds up the tranny, the passenger side one bolts on where the timing belt is.

I know inserts are available from AWR for the 2.0, not sure how different the mounts are on the 1.6 since they must bolt up to the same place on the chassis.. obviously that has no bearing on the shape/size/design of the rubber which would dictate if the inserts were compatible. If they aren't, you could always make your own inserts with .. window weld or whatever that butyl crap is people use. It might not last a long time but it's cheap as hell.

Front and rear are 70s. Stock sides.

Just weld them solid you girls!

So... my manual '02 Protege is completely stock, daily driver, 60k miles and my mounts are shot. I've read the rear is a real bitch to replace, so for my situation would I be fine just replacing the front and sides with the SLS mounts? Is the rear really needed for a completely stock, daily driven Protege?

I have the SLS side and front on my P5 with 85k miles (maybe 86k now.. I'm afraid to check) and everything is peachy :)

So you still have your original stock (busted I assume) rear mount?

yes it is needed, if it wasn't mazda wouldnt have put one on it. depending on how bad it is u might not need to replace it. how do u know the rear is shot? you cant see it without taking stuff off

I didn't mean "needed" as in should I remove, I meant would I have to replace it. I don't for sure which of them are actually shot, but I do know that I have a lot of drivetrain slop.

if ur stock and the rear isnt completely obliterated it should be fine.

Yeah chances are your front one is torn and that is causing the drivetrain slop you are experiencing.

Try doing the front (easy) and the sides first. If it still hops like mad or seems sloppy - then bite the bullet and do the rear. I would use diesel Protege mounts (littel stronger than stock - but not 'harsh' like the AWRs... My $.02 worth...

I think I might take that route, cuz I really don't want any more vibrating and harshness than what's already there. Where do I buy those mounts?

AWR side inserts @ protegegarage.com -$45 shipped.
SLS front motor mount @ slsperformance.com - $68 + shipping, might try the discount code M247-10 for $10 off, but it may have expired by now.

You're rear mount is probably ok. I'm at 60K and mine's in good shape.

SLS only makes the front and passenger side mounts. If you want to use their driver side mount, you'll have to wait until they're finished developing it.

If your side mounts aren't too bad you can install AWR inserts to firm things up--they should only increase NVH nominally.