going to take engine out, to possibly rebuild
 

im going to take my motor out this week, and this is my first time doing this to my car..
its a "99 pro. dx" FF


internet info wise

i might need help with the disconnecting part (wires, hoses, trans, mount)
and then putting back once "rebuild" is finished (wires, hoses, trans, mount)

anything else that id haveto do (other then draining oil n' stuff) before taking the motor out?

im a beginner at this, sooo, im not good in what things are called, and where they'd go once the motor is back

You're crazy to attempt something like that if you're a beginner. I'm not saying I'm a pro or anything, but common sense tells me not to do something of that degree without the proper knowledge. I'm not tyin to flame or discourage you from your project but at least give it some more thought and do a whole lot more research on it if you're really serious about it. Either way, good luck to you ...

yep. good luck, it might take you alot of time to put the engine back in, just remembering where everything goes is a bitch. Dont do it yourself, have someone help you do it. I can not overemphasize how important it is to have lots of time and proper knowledge to do this...

oh sh** i got as much time as i can nagotiate..

this may sound ignerant (spell)

my parents think im just gonna take the engine out, apart., back together, and back in the car, then junk it.. the car doesn't run. they think im just gonna learn.. well... im gonna learn (they know nuthing about car engines and repairs) and im gonna get it running, even if it takes me a year.. because in 3 months, it will be a year since it had stopped running.. and im seriously determind to get it running on my own

i bought the fkin car, and i will do whatever i want to it, and i will learn.. thanks to auto zone, i can get a major repair and rebuild manuel, specificly for my car model and year

im not saying i got the money, but i do have the time to work for it, and slowly fix my car..

as long as i know i can get it running.. which is impossible through my parents eyes..

but hey.. all machanics start somewhere, and from something

please, i may need some general info on what should be disconected first (after the battery) and so on, and so on

thank you very much for you input though

go to town.
Just remember to lable everything with some tape. And take pictures to be sure you remember where everything goes. As long as the cars not working start anywhere you want. I would personally start by taking out the intake and exhaust this should give you room to work. Be sure to drain the raidator before pulling off the trottle body. Or it will get messy.



What do you mean by stoped running?
You might not even have to pull apart the engine.

EDIT
You car hasent been running in 9 months. And you havent told us anything?
Oh well if you arent able to get it working be sure to part it out. I need parts to experiment on.

You know ... something you might wanna look into is going on eBay and looking for a Protege manual CD. I got one for like $5 and it's been one of my best friends when it comes to taking appart the car. It gives you detailed pictures and step by step instructions on how to take appart every little part of our cars.

tools? engine hoist?

there's a lot more to pulling an engine than having a book and patience.

Good call ...

A good friend to help out would also come in handy I'm sure as there's surely going to be plenty of situations when you simply CAN'T get to something by yourself ...

i over exaggerated... the car stoped running this year sometime in jauary.. i did run when i got the title transfer and tax, then the loud clanking began.. oil light wash flashing while this happened (oil pressure, pump, what else?) it kept running up untill the cold sh** and snow came in.. something electricals probably wet... my dad says the starter and alternator is fine.. we checked the fuses and their fine.. i just cant find the problem (im practically broke, so doing it myself will get things started)

still dont know problem..


reason why im wanting to take engine apart is to find out why it was clanking soooo loud, then fix it or replace the problem, and also to replace the oil pump (cause that bi** is gone)

im about to start taking it apart today.. im gonna reconnect the battery and see if it starts again, if not...... motor time...

anyone know (other then a dealership) that would have a diagnostics program? (for do it yourselfers)

ill keep everyone posted on what im doing, and how far i've gotten, and what problems i find and get into.

i admire your courage in going into a project like this, you probably have some big balls.
whatever you do, i'm sure taking good notes and picture like the prev posts would help alot. I know i did take a lot of notes and diagrams when i replaced a head in a Toyota last year.
do keep us posted though. hope you get it running soon,.

also, for diagnosis, autozone does it for free with their ODB-II scan tool.

thank you!!!


i just connected the battery again. and just like before, absolutly nothing works (and the battery is fully charged. i dont get it

and very good idea taking notes and pics.. that will help me out alot

thanks guys
ill keep posting as i go

took off cover of cam drive and, WHOOOO CHILD is it dirty.. i can get some pics on the sight around 4 pm..

does anyone know how to clean a cam drive and (hell) the whole internal of a motor? (by your self)
so i could clean it (by my self)

and what i should use to clean it?
where would a good place be?
it is seriously dirty...

take it apart and have it all steam cleaned...you have a PM

would i be able to steam clean it myself? or is there a place to have it done (other then a dealership)

would sand blasting work also?

I would take it someplace unless you have a steam cleaner. Sand blsting ?? err.. no...you are trying to clean oil out..imagine how hard it would be to get every particle of sand out of there... I thought about acid dipping, but I dont know what that would do to the aluminum components..the block can be acid dipped though..comes out clean as a whistle....Do you know how to do a full rebuild, head, block, and all ?

On the contrary, I think it could be a challenging and rewarding way to learn about automobile mechanics. Yes, there will be challenges. And, yes, he may get stuck. Probably even will break a few things, strip out a bolt or two. But broken bits can be replaced, friends and a little brainstorming can sort out challenges, and if he stays committed to the project, he can finish it. I still remember when I rebuilt my first engine. Like most things in life, the hardest part of doing it is getting the cojones to go at it. He has already got the balls to take it on.

Some bits of advice:
1) Anything you take out of the engine ought to be treated with great care, and wrapped in rags to prevent scratches. I might add, keep it all in order in a cool dry place. This includes cams, your crank, valves, and sealing surfaces (such as the bottom side of the cylinder head). Be careful with screw drivers, and other sharp objects when handling/ removing these items. Treat everything as if it was made out of fine china, not steel, and she will go back together without additional issues.
2) Put things back together in the order that you took them out. In other words, put the #3 exhaust valve back into the #3 exhaust valve location. If you use ziplock baggies marked with a permanent pen, it will help you remember where all of the nuts and bolts go, and help you keep them from getting lost.
3) Torque everything to the specification listed in the shop manual, in the tightening pattern specified, and using the proper (specified) thread locker. I cannot stress this enough. I have seen a lot of issues in my time that result from things not being properly torqued.
4) Replace gaskets with a quality set, and check to make sure sealing surfaces are flat and free of scratches.
5) Be prepared to make a lot of runs to the hardware store for tools you do not yet have. After rebuilding a couple of motorcycles, I had gear pullers, clamps, a zillion extensions, etc. The collection just kept growing. And, you'll find that you will need stuff at like two in the morning, when all of the stores are closed.
5) If you get in a jam, let us know. We are here to help.

Good luck, man.

order a rebuild kit, and while your at it some ARP head studs. They are much tougher than OEM and still pretty cheap...also get a cylinder hone, its a great tool to have when doing a rebuild. ANd yes you'll need a lift, but you can rent one cheap or I've seen them as cheap as $150 if you want to own one

Hell, if my car didnt work I'd be right with you. If you know how an engine works than what better way to get the hands-on experience for mechanics and repair than to take apart the whole engine. I've sometimes considered buying a scrapped car and making a project off it.
But definatly make sure you have a roll of masking tape, bags, and a permanent marker as mentioned, it will make things a lot easier!

Good luck with it.

not really.

i was hoping i would learn as i go, and some friends i know (know a little) could lend a hand

i've also got a family friend (machanic for 14 years) who lives by, i can always ask for some info.. and finnaly this sight...

i have a ton of zipplock bags already carrying some nuts and bolts, i feal like im gonna be outside with it past 12 at night... im happy as hell that i have the time now to do this, and some friends that can help

i also use duct tape to seal off hoses and cover open wires..

"order a rebuild kit, and while your at it some ARP head studs"

i havn't thought about buying one untill you told me... where would rebuild kits usually be found? how much do they run?

thank you very much for the help!!!!!!

try www.cheapmazdaparts.com

look for a complete overhaul gasket set and complete bearing set

probably run you like $200 total...but that does not include rebuilding the head itself....you will need to take the head apart and see what damage is done

you'll see why I told you to just by another ZM engine real fast

I found a 1.6L for a automatic in illinois for $385 on car-part.com

look at that....Mac pwns jo0

DAMN!!!!!

385!?

thats fricken cheap.. would they possibly be able to do a layaway?

sad for me, i have no where close to 250 cash.. ive just got enough to cover wiring and hosing. about $75

take me a little bit to get that much
parents wont lend neither

well gotta stop for tonight... seal everything off with tape.. got a few friends hopefully coming out tomarrow.

hope ryan can get ahold of his brother too.. so i can get my stuff cleaned and painted.

ill get back to you guys after work tomarrow

i have to add in one more thing..

when i take the engine out, should i disconnect the motor from the trans, or take out both in one?




GOTTA GET MY SISTERS CAM

WILL POST THEM TOMARROW

sorry for not keeping my word

well, i cant help it.. im going back to work on my car...

its dark and 8:32

dont know how far i will get

Rubbermade makes great strong parts organizers. Go slow and keep everything, nuts & bolts, etc. in order so they go right back where they came from. A wire wheel on a bench grinder is great for cleaning out cruddy threads. Use good tools and buy brake parts cleaner by the case.

I'm sure an engine and parts rebuilding shop can hot-tank the block. Keep it plastic wrapped after that till you're ready to prep it, then blast out every nook, cranny and orifice with a pressure washer (they may do that for you too), you don't want any clogged oil lines. You can chase the water out with dry compressed air and light spray oil like WD40. I used to bake my iron blocks with heat lamps to dry them out. Re-wrap it if you're not immediately ready to go together.

Try some books from the library on general engine rebuilding and see what you like before you buy one. I recomend getting a couple, so what's unclear in one is covered better in the other.

This will be a good thread if you can post updates as you go. Good luck, wish I could help get my hands dirty.

P.S. when you've done it, people will be asking you how to do stuff.

And do the pre-lube as you assemble.

Absolutely.

Also, if you are building really slowly, use thick oil, even STP will do well. If you're going to slap it together in one or two days and crank it, use thin oil. I've used Marvel Mystery oil, but 5W up to 30W is okay.
Torque the rod bolts and mains slowly especially if you use thick oil so it all gets squeezed as thin as it can go. I know some people say to torque it all down, loosen it and torque it again, can't hurt.

I know we're ahead of where you are now, but just file the advice, I'm sure you'll have more of it than you need. And don't trust us advice givers too much, make your ultimate decisions based on what makes sense to YOU.

buy an engine stand

was up till 10pm yesterday. took out stock intake, cam drive, and belts.

gonna work on the piston area and hopefully get my crankshaft looked at, as well as my alternator and starter (just in case)

wish i had a engine hoist.. this sucks
got camera also, you will see what i mean when i said the cam is dirty

Mad props for going into this project like you did. I know I kinda shut you down at first, but your enthusiasm has completely changed my view on your situation. Keep up the good work man, and I wish you the best of luck!!!

i came up on a conindrum

my radiator is connected to the motor in 2 places, and then connected to the tranny..

it has the normal green coolent comming out when i drained it.. now im taking the trans hose off. and the trans fluid is coming out.

is the coolent and radiator, and the trans supposed to be hooked up like it was, and for both liquids to be interacting?

this is very wrong... i got pics but no connections from cam to computer..

so far:

battery is out with battery stand.
intake is off.
radiator fans are off and out, and supports are off.
radiator is partially out, and problem has been run into
oil is drained same as coolent.

they arent "interacting"...the radiator cools tranny fluid and coolant on an auto...they run in seperate tubes in the radiator..Don't worry, that's normal.

macdaddyslomo, your absolutly right. also your right for me to get a whole new "used" motor, then to rebuild mine. cost me alot less too

my dads letting me keep the car. (in his drive, i was keeping it anyway)
but the motors gotta go. im keeping

Radiator, Radiator fan, Transmission, Fuel injectors, and stock intake (also hoses alternator, starter, ill know as i go)

once the motor is out, it is gone (junk, or whatever)

as i was working on the motor i would come across water droplets evrywhere, (im like oh sh**) the oil has water gatherings also

im guessing the engine block is cracked, and the motor could have hydrolocked (or im stupid and that has nothing to do with it)

anyway, i cannot affoard to do a rebuild. so...... if there are any specific things you need from a 1.6 litre dohc motor tell me, because some things are up for grabs, i just dont know names and all that.. if i could see a picture i'd know

now im coming up to another question. when a motor leaves another one will be put in.. sooooo

ryan's friend (with an angine hoist) has a 93 protege lx sitting in his drive.. motor works good, but the suspension and sh** is broke, so the car wont move
im leading up to these questions

will a 93' protege motor fit and work in a 99' protege?
and will the 93' motor also work with the trans?
it is also a four banger (1.6 litre). will it also work with most of my wiring and hoses?
starter and alternator?
engine mount?
same connections as 99' motor?
connections to the radiator?
a/c and heating hoses and ducts?
electrical?
and will my origonal CPU need to be re-programmed, or would i need a new set up?

it wont fit..I know it's a 1.6L mazda...but it's a different engine..once again go to ebay or car-part.com

just wondering.. thanks

would a 1.8 fit with out engine bay modifications (engine mounts, tranny, a/c, heat(thingy), radiator, starter, alternator, 1.6 ltr belts)

that's another big no...for a 1.8L swap you would need engine,tranny,mounts,axles,ecu,harness.....

*wistles*

thasts quite a bit of work to be done
and i have no welding experience neither


then its the same motor i have that im looking for now

gonna check out car-part.com first.
i never have luck with ebay.(always get motors for hondas and sh**)