Another Strike
November-20th-2002, 06:01 PM
#17
Protege Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: California
Posts: 18
I have never heard that incorrect wheel nut tension causes rotor warping. A loose wheel can certainly demonstrate the same symptoms though. I cant visualize how loadings on the hub can upset the disks.
All the articles I have read on disk warping describe the most common cause to be poor heat and pad material distribution.
e.g You brake realy hard then sit at the lights with your brakes on causing hot spots or uneven transfer of braking material to the disk.
Once this has happened the problem just continues to get worse with normal use. It is brake cooling abuse that causes the majority of warping situations IMHO.
example:
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm
There is a really good article on breaking in your new disks in a car magazine that I have but I just cant find it. It is filled with excellent scientific study data on the subject. I will see if I can find it to post.
All the articles I have read on disk warping describe the most common cause to be poor heat and pad material distribution.
e.g You brake realy hard then sit at the lights with your brakes on causing hot spots or uneven transfer of braking material to the disk.
Once this has happened the problem just continues to get worse with normal use. It is brake cooling abuse that causes the majority of warping situations IMHO.
example:
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm
There is a really good article on breaking in your new disks in a car magazine that I have but I just cant find it. It is filled with excellent scientific study data on the subject. I will see if I can find it to post.
November-20th-2002, 06:10 PM
#18
Protege Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: California
Posts: 18
For the truly dedicated here is a good reference source for braking related issues
http://home.planet.nl/~annevelink/brakes.html
http://home.planet.nl/~annevelink/brakes.html
November-20th-2002, 06:22 PM
#19
Protege Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 8
PupPet, if your brakes are "wiggin out" at 5k miles WHY ARE YOU STILL DRIVING ON THEM AT 7k MILES? You have a warranty - use it. That's what it is there for. Mazda buys parts from other manufacturers, and can't control the quality of every part. If the pads or rotors are messed up, get them fixed. If the brake light comes on every time you use them, you either have low brake fluid or a hydraulic problem.
November-20th-2002, 06:27 PM
#20
Protege Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 24
tourque my wrench why dontcha j.k
the only reason i havent taken it in is because my mazda is all i have to drive right now
my local dealer is really bad at making repairs, they had our volkswagon for over 6 fricken months to get it fixed
so until i have an alternate means of transportation im kinda screwed in the ******* over it
the only reason i havent taken it in is because my mazda is all i have to drive right now
my local dealer is really bad at making repairs, they had our volkswagon for over 6 fricken months to get it fixed
so until i have an alternate means of transportation im kinda screwed in the ******* over it
November-20th-2002, 06:35 PM
#21
Protege Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 8
Doesn't your dealer give you a free loaner while it's in for service? All Mazda dealers are supposed to. I understand not wanting to be without your car, though.
Try using your emergency brake to come to a stop and see if you get shuddering or any problems. That way you can tell if it is your front or rear brakes. At least you can narrow it down.
Try using your emergency brake to come to a stop and see if you get shuddering or any problems. That way you can tell if it is your front or rear brakes. At least you can narrow it down.
November-20th-2002, 07:50 PM
#22
Protege Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Toronto
Posts: 23
I've had my P5 about 8 months now. I drove it real slow and smooth during the break-in period. Since then i've drivin it hard. I have'nt had any problems with it at all.
My question to you is... did you abuse your P5 during break'in???
My question to you is... did you abuse your P5 during break'in???
November-20th-2002, 09:08 PM
#23
2002 RX-7 Spirit 'R'
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Brampton, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 872
Originally posted by carguycw
You obviously have never owned a 93 RX-7, or been friends with anyone who has. These cars are HORRENDOUSLY unreliable in stock form. We're not talking squeaks, rattles and warped rotors; we're talking serious problems with major mechanical systems of the car. These cars will suck your wallet dry and make you curse their mere existence. Do some research on the Internet before making this statement.
Also, mandatory disclaimer: whenever I've made this comment, someone has always jumped in and defended these cars. Here's my response:
1) Yes, most of the problems were fixed on the 95 model. Too bad they sold thousands and thousands of 93's and only a couple hundred 95's.
2) Yes, many of the problems can be fixed by replacing all of the suspect parts. When someone says that their 93 is reliable, make sure you get the WHOLE story. ("Yeah, the car has worked great since I replaced the radiator, the tranny (twice), the suspension bushings, both turbos, the engine, and had all 200 of the intake hoses reglued. Since then, the car has been rock solid! Except the time I turned the boost up and blew the engine again. Other than that, it's been great!!")
That's all I'm saying about this.
You obviously have never owned a 93 RX-7, or been friends with anyone who has. These cars are HORRENDOUSLY unreliable in stock form. We're not talking squeaks, rattles and warped rotors; we're talking serious problems with major mechanical systems of the car. These cars will suck your wallet dry and make you curse their mere existence. Do some research on the Internet before making this statement.
Also, mandatory disclaimer: whenever I've made this comment, someone has always jumped in and defended these cars. Here's my response:
1) Yes, most of the problems were fixed on the 95 model. Too bad they sold thousands and thousands of 93's and only a couple hundred 95's.
2) Yes, many of the problems can be fixed by replacing all of the suspect parts. When someone says that their 93 is reliable, make sure you get the WHOLE story. ("Yeah, the car has worked great since I replaced the radiator, the tranny (twice), the suspension bushings, both turbos, the engine, and had all 200 of the intake hoses reglued. Since then, the car has been rock solid! Except the time I turned the boost up and blew the engine again. Other than that, it's been great!!")
That's all I'm saying about this.
and allt hese problems won't bother me....because from the statement I had already made...an RX-7 is not some Luxury car...its a high performanced Race car....and the engines on high performance race cars aren't completely meant to last long....and i know of all the problems on rx-7s
Ive done alot of extensive research on them....
wasted the last year of my life just researching them but you see...I mean that statement...when I get an FD3S I'll be TOTALLY HAPPY, no matter what the shape the engine is in....or whats wrong with the car, I would probably make it a project car....and learn how to rebuild it myself (God that will be a hard task, and I'll get someone who has worked on rotary engines to supervise)
you see when i made that statement..I already had all my research done, and was ready to back it up....
I DON"T CARE I WILL BE TOTALLY HAPPY WITH AN RX-7
Last edited by VagaBond-X; November-20th-2002 at 09:18 PM.
November-21st-2002, 07:50 AM
#24
Protege Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 24
Try using your emergency brake to come to a stop and see if you get shuddering or any problems. That way you can tell if it is your front or rear brakes. At least you can narrow it down.
(unless i decide to do a sharp turn at the same time hehehe)
November-21st-2002, 08:18 AM
#25
Get in my belly!!!
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: FL
Posts: 362
Re: Re: Re: Another Strike
Originally posted by carguycw
This backs up many of the comments I've heard about late-model VW's. These cars *feel* like they're carved from a solid steel billet when they're new, but it's all downhill from there. They are prone to electrical problems and lots of little niggling annoyances. And if you ever need anything fixed, get ready to $pay$.
You are better off looking at a Toyota, Nissan, or Honda IMHO. But get those lug nuts checked first. I recommend finding another dealer.
This backs up many of the comments I've heard about late-model VW's. These cars *feel* like they're carved from a solid steel billet when they're new, but it's all downhill from there. They are prone to electrical problems and lots of little niggling annoyances. And if you ever need anything fixed, get ready to $pay$.
You are better off looking at a Toyota, Nissan, or Honda IMHO. But get those lug nuts checked first. I recommend finding another dealer.
November-21st-2002, 09:41 AM
#26
Protege Enthusiast
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 180
it's been because of awful noise levels, incessant rattles (which I infuriatingly hate), high engine RPM 's at boring (i.e. slow) highway speeds, cheap glass (the front windshield for which I've already had to replace; out of pocket), and other miscellaneous issues that, while minor, are irritating nonetheless (bad lock placement, no useable center armrest, etc.).
Out of all your complains, minus the rattles and weak glass, are things that you should notice back then. If that didn't affect your decision back then why complain about them now?
November-21st-2002, 09:44 AM
#27
Protege Enthusiast
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: NJ
Posts: 78
my cusion has a 2000 VR6 gulf and he says it has crazy problems with the o2 sensor and other stuff.
as for the warped rotor, that happens when do break hard. u don't have to be a race car driver to warp them. juts once of twice of some jerk cutting you off and you have to slam of the breaks can do it warped them. also i think that the protege rotors are very thin. like i said I THINK. just like my bro's dodge. what OEMs do now is they make the rotor thin so when you change the brakes you change the rotors too. the rotors can't be re-cut. and I THINK that my auto part store guy said the protege rotors are thin. So that aslo can be a factor to warped rotors. thin rotor warp easier.
hope that makes sense.
as for the warped rotor, that happens when do break hard. u don't have to be a race car driver to warp them. juts once of twice of some jerk cutting you off and you have to slam of the breaks can do it warped them. also i think that the protege rotors are very thin. like i said I THINK. just like my bro's dodge. what OEMs do now is they make the rotor thin so when you change the brakes you change the rotors too. the rotors can't be re-cut. and I THINK that my auto part store guy said the protege rotors are thin. So that aslo can be a factor to warped rotors. thin rotor warp easier.
hope that makes sense.
November-21st-2002, 09:57 AM
#28
Eat my Noodle!
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Location: Location: Location: <<std ERR: 604 A00:24>>
Posts: 231
The biggest pissoff i have with my P5 is that my brakes are ALWAYS squeeking. I took it to the dealer and they say all disc brakes do that. BULLSHIT. I had a civic with front disc brakes and after my first 5k service they took the brakes apart, cleaned it and has not squeeked since up to the 34k when i traded it in. The p5 brakes squeeks like a motherfuck. I asked the dealer to take them apart and clean it and they say it won't do any good. Bullshit. Every morning my rear left wheel squeeks when going 5-10 km/hr. Why only the rear? Why only the rear left wheel? People say it's rust, well again, why not on all 4 wheels and only the rear one? All 4 discs get wet when it rains doesn't it? My old civic had front discs and after a raining day the next morning it doesn't squeek from rust build up. It's a quality issue with these cars. Given that they sure look nice, good handling, but **** the bunch of little things **** me off - 2k1+ civics are ULEV but they don't rattle like a motherfuck in the mornings. Go figure with the Proteges. The right side mirrors don't lock in the correct position so that you see your blind spot instead of the side of the car - rendering that right mirror almost useless except when parking. The dealer said "ALL p5's left mirror locks like that".. ******* retarded. I went to the lot and checked EVERY P5 and they are alllike that. That's the stupidest design i've seen. When moved the mirror to the more outward positiion all you see is the side of the car and not the blind spot. Retarded unless you have one of the square bigass mirrors that i've had to resort to.
Anyways, i'm planning on getting the mazda 6 but if that car has a bunch of little annoyances that the dealer refuses to fix or just says, that's how the cars is,.. then i'll probably go back to Acura/Honda.. at least they take things apart and fix them (ie. brakes).
Btw, my car only has 14,000 km's..
Anyways, i'm planning on getting the mazda 6 but if that car has a bunch of little annoyances that the dealer refuses to fix or just says, that's how the cars is,.. then i'll probably go back to Acura/Honda.. at least they take things apart and fix them (ie. brakes).
Btw, my car only has 14,000 km's..
November-21st-2002, 10:01 AM
#29
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Dallas, Texas
Posts: 1,122
Originally posted by sumo elan
I have never heard that incorrect wheel nut tension causes rotor warping. A loose wheel can certainly demonstrate the same symptoms though. I cant visualize how loadings on the hub can upset the disks.
I have never heard that incorrect wheel nut tension causes rotor warping. A loose wheel can certainly demonstrate the same symptoms though. I cant visualize how loadings on the hub can upset the disks.
The problem happens because the rotors expand when they heat up. If the center of the rotor is overloaded, they will not contract properly when they cool off. Viola, warped rotors.
November-21st-2002, 10:06 AM
#30
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Dallas, Texas
Posts: 1,122
Originally posted by saided18
as for the warped rotor, that happens when do break hard. u don't have to be a race car driver to warp them. juts once of twice of some jerk cutting you off and you have to slam of the breaks can do it warped them. also i think that the protege rotors are very thin.
as for the warped rotor, that happens when do break hard. u don't have to be a race car driver to warp them. juts once of twice of some jerk cutting you off and you have to slam of the breaks can do it warped them. also i think that the protege rotors are very thin.
And yes, Protege rotors are thin. So are the rotors on almost all other Jap imports.
