what should I do?
what should I do?
hey guys
I want to make my p5 faster but there seem to be no options, I want something that won't cause my emissions to fail, also I don't want my engine to fail really quick. So can you guys help a guy out?
I want to make my p5 faster but there seem to be no options, I want something that won't cause my emissions to fail, also I don't want my engine to fail really quick. So can you guys help a guy out?
Don't the pistons need to change alot in your car like the a/f ratio?
I heard they weren't that reliable, and the cams won't let you pass the emissions tests, I wouldn't mind getting pulleys and a lightweight flywheel, but what else is there besides going forced induction?
I heard they weren't that reliable, and the cams won't let you pass the emissions tests, I wouldn't mind getting pulleys and a lightweight flywheel, but what else is there besides going forced induction?
thanks for the help, I so thought that the pistons would destroy your engine and the cams would not let me pass emissions, thanks for clearing all of this up, do you have any info on what the pulleys would do to my engine and how bout the flywheel?
Also all of these other guys are talking about a header? now I know they will screw up emissions
Also all of these other guys are talking about a header? now I know they will screw up emissions
also if I just put the both the cams and the pistons will I have to put other things in my car or tune it somehow? I know in california you can't change your cams so that is why I am a little sceptacle
Originally posted by trickedoutP5
how would I go about tuning it to pass emissions?
how would I go about tuning it to pass emissions?
OK, I'd like to add a a couple of points here.
To answer your question directly, you will probably have to change the ECU to change the A/F ratio. G3 Pros go into "open loop" mode at WOT; in other words, the engine ignores the sensors and calculates the A/F ratio and ignition timing based on rpm and throttle position. The A/F mapping is hardwired into the ECU and cannot be changed by "chipping" the ECU or using a "piggyback" module such as an APEX'i Super AFC. You will probably have to toss the ECU and replace it.
Second, it may not possible to pass emissions with cams, regardless of how the engine is tuned. High-performance cams usually have more overlap than stock cams (overlap is the short period at TDC of the exhaust stroke when both the intake and exhaust valves are open). Overlap creates more power at high rpm because it improves scavenging; however, it also really hurts emissions because unburnt fuel is sucked out the exhaust valve at low rpm.
Whether or not a cam will pass emissions and/or work with the stock ECU largely depends on how aggressive the cam is. The stock FS-ZE intake cam (the most common topic on this list) is mild enough to work with the stock ECU but I'm not sure if it will pass emissions. The Mazda Motorsports (now Mazdaspeed Motorsports Development) website says that it will not pass, and I'm tempted to believe them.
Third, installing higher-compression pistons will probably also require tuning (see above). High-comp piston will increase cylinder pressure, which is how they increase power, but they also increase an engine's tendency towards detonation. If the air-fuel ratio is too lean, the detonation will blow the engine up. Higher compression also requires higher-octane fuel and makes the engine less tolerant of boost (important if you plan to add a turbo later).
The stock FS-ZE engine, which has 10.5:1 compression, will work with the stock 1.8L ECU, but requires 93 octane fuel. I'm not sure if this combo will pass emissions, but I doubt it

Fourth, there are no Protege headers currently in existence that will pass Cali emissions. Period. California requires a State-issued CARB exemption sticker for a part to pass emissions, and it is doubtful that anyone will ever make a CARB-legal header for the G3 Pro because the primary cat has to be removed or relocated to install a long-tube header.
Hope this clears things up
Carguy, are you saying that the US 1.8L ECU works with the ZE engine better than the 2.0L ECU? Do you know if that combo will reach J-spec output levels? I hadn’t considered the combination, I guess it was too obvious. Also, weren’t there some 1.8L sold domestically that were OBDI, lacked the WOT hardwire and those nasty fuel cut offs? I think I have another reason to make that trip to the junkyard now.



