resetting ECU?
 

I bought a Mazda Protege 2.0L Polished Intake Kit with K&N Filter from dohccivicna1250(7175) on ebay.

They sent me the wrong parts. Stubborn me made them fit.
I used the stock pieces from the engine to the air sensor. Then I replaiced the air box with the polished 90 degree elbow and put the K&N filter on the other end.

Now the check engine light is on and the car won't idle. It bogs until 5500 RPS then bogs again at 6000.

It sounds good though.

Any suggestions on how to fix this?

Later,

Bill

Oops I forgot to ask.

Do I need to reset the ECU?

If so how do I do it?

Bill

sorry, can't help there...
Disconnect the negative from the battery, leave it disconnected, push on brake pedal for about a minute or two (this uses the brake lights to discharge the rest of the electrical system), reconnect the battery.

Bill, did you put the temp sensor in?

Everything is plugged in.

I checked a couple of times now.

I guess I'll drive it for a couple of days and see how it works.

i once forgot to plug in the temp sensor too when i installed my intake. the cel came on, but after driving for an hour the cel shut off.

I've tripple checked every connection. Still a dog.

I unhooked the negative battery cable and held the brake for several minutes. Hooked up the batery and the engine light was still on.

Disconected the battery over night and when I hooked it up the light came back on.

I have put about 30 miles on the car with the new piece of crap intake and still no performance.

I had to cut the bracket that the overflow tank sets on. So now I can't even put the stock airbox back on without either buying that bracket or making one.

I am not happy with the service that I am getting from DOHCCivicNA1250@aol.com

I emailed the ebay seller and he said that they couldn't have sent me the wrong parts so I must have neglected something.

Can we say NEGATIVE feed back?

Have you scanned the PCM for trouble codes (DTC's)?

If it's showing DTC number P0101, P0102 or P0103, the MAF connector is loose, the MAF itself is damaged, or (most likely IMHO) the Ebay intake you bought is a worthless POS that doesn't work. :rolleyes: If it's showing P0111, P0112 or P0113, the problem is the IAT sensor connector or the sensor itself. The IAT doesn't really care where or how it's installed as long as it's in the airstream somewhere, so it's the easy part. However, the MAF is sensitive to poor intake design, and a cheapo intake will sometimes give you a "Check Engine" light that will NEVER go away. :(

Thanks Chris,

This was susposed to be a K&N intake.

The polished tubing that was advertised in the picture is what fits the Protege5. But they sent me something else.

In the picture of the item on ebay was two tubes one had a single nipple and the other had a single hole in the side.

The S tube they sent me has 3 nipples. Two on one side and one on the other side. The shorter tube just had the one small hole in the side for the other sensor.


I guess I'll have to go by the dealership had get my engine checked.

Oh boy more money.:(


This is what I was susposed to get, but didn't.

[URL] http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=2413548634http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=2413548634

Take it to Autozone and they will scan it for free. :bt:

You forgot a step. After you pump the brakes, wait 15-20 min before reconnecting the battery.

Thanks Chris

I'll have to take it to the zone.:)

Here is the e-mail that I got back from JDM Motor Tuning of NewYork. Also known as DOHCCivicNA1250@aol.com from ebay.

"you must have clearly broken something installing it becuase our kit is a 100% AEM copy "

What a bunch of pricks?

If you had to cut the bracket for the overflow tank, this is not a 100% AEM SRI copy. I just installed an AEM on my Pro5 and have no problems. I knew it would work 100%, so I was willing to pay the extra $$$. I just looked at the product pics on ebay and that does not look like an AEM SRI. And the claims of horsepower gain... :bs:

That's crappy to hear about what you're going through. I hope you get satisfaction soon.

:mach: DOHCCivicNA1250@aol.com

Can you take some pics your installation and post them?

I have some pictures posted here. I will be adding more later this week


members.cardomain.com/rednecks_r_us

Later,

Bill


(Car meet & mountain drive, Prescott Valley AZ on 06/01/03 at Denny's in Prescott Valley @ 10 AM)

Pictures have been added to my web page at cardomain.

This will sound silly but...

The 'extra nipples' are covered shut, right?

No they are open.

I couldn't use that S tibe at all.

It is way too long. If I put that S tube on (with the three nipples) then the MAF sensor touches the rediator, Leaving no room for the filter.

I used factory tubing up to the MAF sensor then put on the short polished 90 degree with the K&N filter.

I know that YOU know, but that's the wrong intake! That thing is for a Civic or something. I bought an OBX intake from Ebay and have had no problems at all.
When I was shopping for intakes, I looked at that "K&N" one, but the seller had tons of bad feedback, so I shined it. Good luck with those jerks. Maybe an OBX would be the way to go, as they're only 35 bucks, and it came with really detailed installation instructions(and a washable cone!).


EDIT: For the record, a true K&N typhoon air intake for the P5 costs about the same, if not more than an Injen($200+-). That weasle sold you a generic intake with a K&N filter.

Ya, I gathered that.

I looked at his negative feed back and it was people saying that they got the wrong parts.

I looked at the picture and what is in the picture will fit my car.

I did a yellow pages search on MSN today and got their phone number.

I talked to Eli and he said to send the wrong parts back with a note and he would exchange them.

We'll see.

What an ordeal!

Well, wish you good luck... And keep us informed, will you?

Also use <your favorite delivery system> delivery confirmation and tracking options.

Don't want to have no proof that they received the kit back!

Hey everybody thanks for the input.
I'll let you know the outcome.

yellowdragon, I planned to have them sign for the package.
Thanks for the reminder though. Being pissed off at a bunch of Jerks in NewYork may lead to short term memory loss.

Chris (carguycw) The guys at my only AUTOZONE aren't the sharpest tools in the shed.

For them to check the computer for the Checkengine light where should I tell them to look?


Y'all take care,

Bill
Prescott Valley, Arizona USA

Just had a look at the pictures... you weren't kidding that they sent you the wrong parts.

If I understand this correctly, you've got the stock hose to the MAF and the new pipe from there to the filter.

What I don't see is where you've attached the air temp sensor (originally attached to the air cleaner box). In the original ebay pic, there's a hole in the pipe, just above the filter for the sensor and OEM grommet. If the sensor is just dangling, or has been removed, that could be your problem.

Oops... didn't realize there was a page 2 :beer:

Good luck.

Lerxst wrote:
What I don't see is where you've attached the air temp sensor (originally attached to the air cleaner box). In the original ebay pic, there's a hole in the pipe, just above the filter for the sensor and OEM grommet. If the sensor is just dangling, or has been removed, that could be your problem
**************************************************
It is plugged in. IT is located on the driverside bottom of the polished tube.

I thought there might be a problem with the sensor not being in the tube far enough or in to far so I even used the stock grommet just to make sure the clearance was right.

After I get off work in the morning I'm going to go by AutoZone or Checker and see if the can scan my codes to find the problem.

One of the things I like about my Dodge Dakota is the check engine light. When the light comes on it blinks in a series of flashes before staying on. In the owners book there is a list of what these flashes mean. Kind of like Morris Code.

Later,

Bill

when this is all cleared up, you'll be stoked on your new intake! Don't lose the faith.http://smilies.networkessence.net/s/...day/grinno.gif

Between 5500 & 6000 RPMs the car sh*ts & gets.
The sound of the growl from 3500 to redline sounds great as well.

But a loud car doesn't make it a fast car.

I'd like to get the power band back to around where it was only with more umph.

Later,

Bill

Amen to that. Glad to know there are other people looking for real performance, not just pretending.

Get on that company's case to give you the right product. Or better yet, get your money back and spend a couple extra bucks for an AEM. You should have no problems (except you need the bracket you just cut out). Also the intake is further down in the engine bay, taking in colder air than what the ebay product offers.

Let us know what happens.

Then why are we talking short rams? A CAI gives you more power anyways.

This morning I called the company in New York and spoke with Eli.
Well I just got an e-mail from them.

This is what it said, "that is an entirely wrong pipe, you got half of the correct kit, please give me your full name and will send the correct pipe ASAP "

It also may have helped that I sent them over 19 pictures.

Oh slamming them on my cardomain web page couldn't have hurt either.

I did give them that address too.

We'll see how this goes. It took a week to get the part here in the first place.

I just want it before 06/01/03. That is when a group of Proteges are coming up from Phoenix and meeting me for a mountain drive.


Later,

Bill