head work
Thread Starter
Super Ninja
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 413
From: Goldsboro NC
head work
Ok my head is down in texas at GTP i should have it back soon. now i have new better top end i will be able to run 9,000 rpms. i am not of course maybe only about 7500. anyways now i have port polish and all of that on the head plus the j-spec cam shafts, act clutch and lightend fly, what should i do next, i was thinking an ignitions system. what is available out there for us? unless i should do something else???
Protege Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 283
From: Debt, Ca.
Yeah...
Well if you're intent on spinning at 9k, I'd recommend new pistons, rods, valvetrain (springs, retainers, blah blah), and a lightened or all new custom crankshaft.
I too would like to see a streetable FS motor hit 9 grand.
Well if you're intent on spinning at 9k, I'd recommend new pistons, rods, valvetrain (springs, retainers, blah blah), and a lightened or all new custom crankshaft.
I too would like to see a streetable FS motor hit 9 grand.
Protege Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 151
From: Merritt Island Fl
Why don't you install an ignition and a Tech III stand alone. There's plenty of ft-lbs trapped in the stock POS ECU.
Sure the stroke is long and the rods short, but it's low compression ratio helps offset that at high rpm. I say the bottom end is good to 8K, with head work and cams that'll flow. I base that on the max acceptable piston velocity of cast pistons. You just need to properly tune for it, which the stock ECU clearly isn't. I say go for it. By the time your lower end goes, the yards will be full of FS motors.
Pseudo's right though; short, flat top, low compression pistons and longer rods would really help, but you'll still need a ECU first.
Sure the stroke is long and the rods short, but it's low compression ratio helps offset that at high rpm. I say the bottom end is good to 8K, with head work and cams that'll flow. I base that on the max acceptable piston velocity of cast pistons. You just need to properly tune for it, which the stock ECU clearly isn't. I say go for it. By the time your lower end goes, the yards will be full of FS motors.
Pseudo's right though; short, flat top, low compression pistons and longer rods would really help, but you'll still need a ECU first.
Protege Anarchist
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 708
From: Dallas, TX
not as low as a QR25 at least
the FS's rod ratio is ~1.47
the FS's rod ratio is ~1.47
Originally posted by PseudoRealityX
Id guess the first thing to go would be rod bolts... And then one would go through the block.
The FS has a ridiculously low rod ratio for a modern 4 cylinder. Its like 1.42.
Id guess the first thing to go would be rod bolts... And then one would go through the block.
The FS has a ridiculously low rod ratio for a modern 4 cylinder. Its like 1.42.
Thread Starter
Super Ninja
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 413
From: Goldsboro NC
Originally posted by zeus
Why don't you install an ignition and a Tech III stand alone. There's plenty of ft-lbs trapped in the stock POS ECU.
Sure the stroke is long and the rods short, but it's low compression ratio helps offset that at high rpm. I say the bottom end is good to 8K, with head work and cams that'll flow. I base that on the max acceptable piston velocity of cast pistons. You just need to properly tune for it, which the stock ECU clearly isn't. I say go for it. By the time your lower end goes, the yards will be full of FS motors.
Pseudo's right though; short, flat top, low compression pistons and longer rods would really help, but you'll still need a ECU first.
Why don't you install an ignition and a Tech III stand alone. There's plenty of ft-lbs trapped in the stock POS ECU.
Sure the stroke is long and the rods short, but it's low compression ratio helps offset that at high rpm. I say the bottom end is good to 8K, with head work and cams that'll flow. I base that on the max acceptable piston velocity of cast pistons. You just need to properly tune for it, which the stock ECU clearly isn't. I say go for it. By the time your lower end goes, the yards will be full of FS motors.
Pseudo's right though; short, flat top, low compression pistons and longer rods would really help, but you'll still need a ECU first.
i have never heard of it and am not fam with it. Who, what, where, why, and HOW MUCH
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