As I have understood , then 1.8 engine is better for Turbo cause for its shorter rods.

Second, tranny with 1.8 is also better, at least is seems that way cause many of the 2.0 trannys have been broken. At least Espec 1.8 and tranny for that engine are better than 2.0 and its engine. Trannys are the same as USpec.

And if you want the best for your money, then i would suggest that youl change the rods and pistons for stronger ones and maeby SpoolTurbo kit with 8 injectors and stand alone. Then i think you would have pretty good kit of everything.

Just my suggestion, which may not be the truth :)

Good luck!

Effects of Short Rods
Pro:
» Provides very good intake and exhaust velocities at low to moderate engine speeds causing the engine to produce good low end torque, mostly due to the higher vacuum at the beginning of the intake cycle. High intake velocities also create a more homogenous (uniform) air/fuel mixture within the combustion chamber. This will produce greater power output due to this effect.
» The increase in piston speed away from TDC on the power stroke causes the chamber volume to increase more rapidly than in a long-rod motor - this delays the point of maximum cylinder pressure for best effect with supercharger or turbo boost and/or nitrous oxide.
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Im not sure if I understood it correctly but atleast I feel like I did :)

Why spend several thousand dollars on a crappy truck motor with a tiny turbo when you can get an FE3 for under a grand and turbo it with a stand alone for under 5k? Do you want to have an inferior and slow car? :shrug:

Because that will be way too expensive to modify in a pro. I was thinking about this earlier this year, but I think it's too much trouble to go through. Well, unless he has the money for it.

And what makes you think I have money coming from my parents? :rolleyes:

That's nice. Maybe you won't get ripped $8000 out of your ass if you have actually RESEARCHED AND LEARNED.
Go you.
Yeah, whatever
You sure know how to find places for estimates :rolleyes:
Good luck

Yes, but you missed something else... the 1.8L has LONGER rods. If two engines have the same deck height (distance between the crank centerline and top of the block) and the same piston pin height, the engine with a shorter stroke must have longer rods and vice versa.

To put it another way, the distance from the crank to the piston pin is the sum of the stroke and the rod length. If the total distance remains constant, to lengthen one you must shorten the other.

BTW I don't want to turn this into another discussion of the effects of bore to stroke and rod to stroke ratio, but the FS-DE is a very undersquare engine with a poor rod-to-stroke ratio. From a performance standpoint, it's a lot closer to the point of diminishing returns than the FP-DE.

One other thing...

No, it's not. The G-series tranny in the 2.0L cars is capable of handling more punishment than the F-series that comes with the 1.8L, and just about everyone who's familiar with high-performance FWD Mazdas knows this. It is a stouter unit in just about every way. I blame the increased 'Net reports of 2.0L tranny breakage on three factors...

1) The 2.0L engines have more torque than a 1.8L, and TORQUE breaks trannies, not power. FYI, both Mazda FWD tranny families (the F and the G) have a reputation for being somewhat fragile compared to other companies' products.

2) A LOT more people are hot-rodding the 2.0L cars than the 1.8L cars. Take a look at the vehicles owned by most people on this list if you need proof.

3) Many of the people buying the 2.0L cars are young folks without a whole lot of experience driving a manual-tranny car hard. I don't mean to overgeneralize here, but let's face it- the 99-00 1.8L Proteges were one of the best-kept secrets of the sporty sedan market, and were mostly ignored by younger, trend-driven enthusiasts, who have mostly hopped on board after the MP3, P5 and MSP came out.

Also, before you make too many assumptions about the strength of the 1.8L tranny, I suggest you read this thread and this thread. :eek:

What about a Japanese BP-T(I think that is what it is called). Will it fit in a protege? If so, I have a buddy in atlanta that will import one for you with ECU and transmission, fuel pump, injectors, etc. for around $1600. That would be a worthwhile swap if it is possible.

BP Turbo. Look at Corksports Drag Protege you can see with some modifacations it can fit in there. $$$$$$$Can you say it

I totally agree. I just posted that to hint at possible "things to come." :D