Check Engine Light on a 99 Pro ES
#3
And, OBD codes are standardized. So, if you write the code down after you visit Autozone and tell us what it is (or google it), you'll have an idea of why it is being set. The code will be a four digit number beginning with a P. For example, P0302 is a #2 cylinder misfire.
We can help trouble shoot it for you. A lot of our members are mechanics, have worked as mechanics, or are just mechanically inclined and always willing to lend a hand.
BTW, welcome to our forum.
We can help trouble shoot it for you. A lot of our members are mechanics, have worked as mechanics, or are just mechanically inclined and always willing to lend a hand.
BTW, welcome to our forum.
#5
I finally got a chance to get over to Autozone and they were able to pull the code for me, it is P0171, if anyone has any ideas as to what may be causing this it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks....
Thanks....
#6
This is a too lean fault code, as indicated by your O2 sensor. Recommendation: clean up your MAF as a first step. If you do a search on this forum, you will find out more details on this from other members who have had the same issue in the past. Dirty MAF is not an uncommon issue for these cars.
#7
I have discovered something that could be problem and was wondering if anyone has seen it.
I put my hand on my spark plug wires while the engine is running of course, and noticed a very strong vibration coming from the plug second from the right (unsure if it is #2). I am thinking this is not normal. Any help would be greatly appreciated
I put my hand on my spark plug wires while the engine is running of course, and noticed a very strong vibration coming from the plug second from the right (unsure if it is #2). I am thinking this is not normal. Any help would be greatly appreciated
#8
The never ending saga continues.....
I have done the following: Cleaned the MAF Sensor, replaced the plugs with NGK's (Had Bosch Platinum before), Installed new wires, replaced the PCV Valve.
Car seems a bit more responsive but when I get to a stop sign or a traffic light I have some really rough idle and it stalled once. I think it's time for a trip to the shop, unless anyone has some 1 last thing for me to try. It would be appreciated...
I have done the following: Cleaned the MAF Sensor, replaced the plugs with NGK's (Had Bosch Platinum before), Installed new wires, replaced the PCV Valve.
Car seems a bit more responsive but when I get to a stop sign or a traffic light I have some really rough idle and it stalled once. I think it's time for a trip to the shop, unless anyone has some 1 last thing for me to try. It would be appreciated...
#9
Make sure that your plugs are gapped to the proper size. This will have an effect on idle stability. Injectors could also be a bit dirty, affecting the spray pattern. And, have you examined your motor mounts? Worn ones will allow more vibration to be transmitted to the car's chassis.
If it is an automatic, I would also put it in neutral, and compare the amount of vibration present vs. when it is in drive.
Just a few more suggestions. I will check back when I have a chance to brainstorm more on it. Check w/ Macdaddyslomo as well. From what I have seen on this forum, he is a very competent mechanic.
If it is an automatic, I would also put it in neutral, and compare the amount of vibration present vs. when it is in drive.
Just a few more suggestions. I will check back when I have a chance to brainstorm more on it. Check w/ Macdaddyslomo as well. From what I have seen on this forum, he is a very competent mechanic.
#10
Thanks very much for the quick response...
I typically get the same type of vibration whether the car is in Neutral versus Drive, no difference.
I purchased some Fuel Injector cleaner will add on my next fill up.
I typically get the same type of vibration whether the car is in Neutral versus Drive, no difference.
I purchased some Fuel Injector cleaner will add on my next fill up.
#11
Are you still getting the code ??? ANother possibility is the 02 Sensor itself... I have seen a lot of members have to replace them. Also check all your vacuum lines...I had a similar problem with a vacuum hose coming off the intake manifold where it wanted to stumble at idle....Apparently mazda had some crappy hose they were using,and they are having issues with them blowing off...used a hose clamp,fixed it permanently. Also for god's sake,(and your own) dont grab your plug wires with your hands ! If you had even a slight crack in one they can buzz you good( I saw a guy litteraly get thrown back). How did you clean your MAF ??
#13
Originally Posted by BFKF95
.
I put my hand on my spark plug wires while the engine is running of course, and noticed a very strong vibration coming from the plug second from the right (unsure if it is #2). I am thinking this is not normal. Any help would be greatly appreciated
I put my hand on my spark plug wires while the engine is running of course, and noticed a very strong vibration coming from the plug second from the right (unsure if it is #2). I am thinking this is not normal. Any help would be greatly appreciated
I would check those vacuum lines if the CEL isnt coming back...this is probably the reason for the stumbling and stalling..Also best thing to clean the MAF for future reference is contact cleaner...just spray it on and let dry(dries quickly) no need to touch it with anything. It's a very sensitive hotwire setup
#14
macdaddyslomo
At first I cleaned the MAF with an Electrical Contact Cleaner, but, there many differences on how to clean the MAF.
I will certainly check the vacuum lines, is there a good way of checking them. Is there something documented that will me with this.
Thanks very much I do appreciate the information you are providing to me.
At first I cleaned the MAF with an Electrical Contact Cleaner, but, there many differences on how to clean the MAF.
I will certainly check the vacuum lines, is there a good way of checking them. Is there something documented that will me with this.
Thanks very much I do appreciate the information you are providing to me.