3rd gen Engine/Drivetrain Engine/Drivetrain Modification Discussions for 1999-2003 Models Only (BJ chassis)

Changing my Spark Plugs - any tips?

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Old July-12th-2002, 10:28 AM
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okay, nobody make fun of me for not knowing this but.....do the Pro5's have platinum plugs or regular NGK copper slugs
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Old July-12th-2002, 10:39 AM
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The stock plugs are regular copper - and mine had Denso's: K16PR-U11.

I was kind of shocked to see Denso's in there - I thought all Mazda's came with NGK's. I replaced the Denso's with NGK's - no particular reason - it's just the first brand I saw, and I knew they fit.

~HH
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Old July-12th-2002, 11:10 AM
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okay...nevermind. i went down and took one out and looked at it. definetely copper ones for sure.
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Old July-12th-2002, 11:13 AM
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IMHO, I prefer Denso slugs over NGK. My last car was a 99' Si(R) and everyone I had talked to said that their motors had NGK's in them. Well....mine had Denso, or Nippon Denso to be exact. Nippon Denso are a large OEM parts maker/supplier in Japan and for Japanese cars. In fact, our radiators are Nippon Denso, amongst other things as well.
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Old July-13th-2002, 11:29 PM
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Since noone here seems to know the torque specs. I suggest calling your local dealer's service dept.
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Old July-16th-2002, 01:07 PM
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Is it not NGK who says not to use antiseize and your regular torque specs!!!! Dry torque specs. are listed by manufacturer and once you use antiseize, you could end up over tigtening. Like the use of KY Are plat 4's any good on a 1.6L 2001

Last edited by distance; July-16th-2002 at 01:10 PM.
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Old July-16th-2002, 10:58 PM
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Are there ever any simple answers?
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Old July-17th-2002, 10:20 AM
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Never!!! AHahahahahahahahahahahaaaa!!!
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Old July-17th-2002, 02:56 PM
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NGK says that anti-seize is *not required* with their plugs because of the way the threads are formed (rolled instead of cut). i still use it because i have seen more then one seized plug. as long as you don't put a ton of it on and you are careful not to get it on anything but the threads you'll be ok.

take a look here
NGK Tech Tips
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Old July-17th-2002, 04:27 PM
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"Not required" is not the same as "not recommended".

Anti sieze can only be a good thing when used properly (only on the threads, enough but not too much, etc). I even used it on my lady's Jeep on her new plugs, with an iron head - after busting my knuckles getting the old plugs out. No matter what the plug manufacturer suggests, I will ALWAYS use it on aluminum heads. And even though it may "mess with" the torque readings, all you have to do is go about 1/4 turn past hand tight, and you will never have a problem with over or under tightening.

Let's see NGK replace your head when you take those plugs out and the siezed aluminum threads come with them.

~HH
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Old July-17th-2002, 04:40 PM
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I use NGK ZFR5F-11.

I use anti sieze and torke these plugs to the minimum recomended, 14 f/lbs ( 20 N/M).. With no anti seize you can go to 17 f/lbs.

I do that a lots of time and never have trouble.

It's a good idea to let the engine cool.
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Old July-22nd-2002, 02:05 PM
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Great responses guys!!! Great info. I am not trying to start anything, but 1) what does this anti-seize do to your conductivity of these threads and 2) I am assuming that the plugs generate heat near these threads and need to disipate that heat via the head. I would tend to think that antiseize might cause the plugs to disipate the heat slower. Remeber these are just questions!!!! I have replaced plugs many times and as long as I follow manufac. specs on when to change plugs, I have never had a problem. Are you guys leaving your plugs in too long??? I change mine often as fouled/dirty/burnt/cruddy plugs cause hesitations. The plugs I buy are the NGK and are not expensive at all. What brand of plugs are stock in Mazda? (NGK,Champion,) I just recently purchased my car and with only 25000kms, I need not change out my plugs yet and do not know who makes the stock spark plugs. Thanks to all who respond.

Last edited by distance; July-22nd-2002 at 02:07 PM.
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Old July-22nd-2002, 05:43 PM
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The stock plugs (at least in my P5) were Denso's - I replaced them with NGK, only because it's the first one's I picked up off the shelf.

The reason for the anti-seize is because plugs are steel, while the head is aluminum. Any time you have two different metals in contact with one another (especially with the addition of heat), there is the possibility of a chemical reaction between the two metals that can "lock" them together. Aluminum is soft enough that if (for ANY reason) the steel and aluminum get stuck, the aluminum threads on the head can get damaged or completely tear out - big trouble (head needs to be replaced).

Anti-seize is just a safety measure to ensure that the plugs will not get stuck, and that the threads will release easily when untightening them. Like I said before, I even used it on my lady's Jeep, even though the head is iron. It'll make the plugs easier to remove next time (cuz they were a *bitch* this time!).

~HH
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Old July-22nd-2002, 09:11 PM
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Yeah. Always use anti-sieze. If not for you then the next guy. Won't hurt anything and helps a lot when you take the SOB's out.
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Old July-23rd-2002, 07:07 AM
  #30  
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Thanks again guys, but the real question that I was sort of asking is that : Does antiseize come in a conductive grease or is it just like KY?? Because I would think that the plugs benefit greatly by having the threads grounded and a conductive paste would disipate heat better! Question is: Is this paste conductive, or can you buy condcutive paste!
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