Cousins?
April-4th-2003, 06:34 AM
#1
Protege Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Newman Calif.
Posts: 7
Cousins?
Hi All,
Just wondering???
How closely related is the Protoge with the Ford Escort?
I've seen a number of signatures that include the Escort in their owners historys.
Thanks,
ZVP
Just wondering???
How closely related is the Protoge with the Ford Escort?
I've seen a number of signatures that include the Escort in their owners historys.
Thanks,
ZVP
April-5th-2003, 08:27 AM
#3
Protege Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Newman Calif.
Posts: 7
Psuedo,
Thanks for the clarification there!
As an old 60's Sports Car freak, I should know these things, but often one gets drawn away from their passions, and ends up driving a car with "stock" hubcaps when they hit their 50's!
LOL!
Now that I'm equipped with this knowlege that you gave, I can see my little silver '91DX maybe fitted with rear Discs, and some of those nice looking Escort spokes.
See my intentions with this one are pure utilitarion Super-comutter (I do a 1040 mi roundtrip to SF each week!).
#1 on the list ,is the car being "CHP invisable".
It already seems to be, with it's 90's shape and the soon to get repainted with the unnoticable Silver color.
#2 I GOTTA change somthin about it, to make it mine! You understand, right?
Frankilly, the engine output suits my needs, the auto trans looses little preformance from the 1800cc's, and the miserly fuel consumption is phenominal!
The Disc/Drum brakes are a little weak for stuffing the thing into corners (I always hole off till the second brake marker...).
The cars stock chassis appears to stay relatitivelly flat, up to and beyond the tires (only PR 185's) breaking point.
Maza did an admirable job on the sway bars and spring rates.
It seems rather funny to me, that this un-noticable little Japanese Grandpa styled sedan, can do all the stuff out of the box, that I modified a '62 Healy to try and even get near, back when...
In comparison to the Wifes 2002 Nissan Sentra, it is even more fun to drive!
Thanks for your help.
Dave N. (aka ZVP)
Thanks for the clarification there!
As an old 60's Sports Car freak, I should know these things, but often one gets drawn away from their passions, and ends up driving a car with "stock" hubcaps when they hit their 50's!
LOL!
Now that I'm equipped with this knowlege that you gave, I can see my little silver '91DX maybe fitted with rear Discs, and some of those nice looking Escort spokes.
See my intentions with this one are pure utilitarion Super-comutter (I do a 1040 mi roundtrip to SF each week!).
#1 on the list ,is the car being "CHP invisable".
It already seems to be, with it's 90's shape and the soon to get repainted with the unnoticable Silver color.
#2 I GOTTA change somthin about it, to make it mine! You understand, right?
Frankilly, the engine output suits my needs, the auto trans looses little preformance from the 1800cc's, and the miserly fuel consumption is phenominal!
The Disc/Drum brakes are a little weak for stuffing the thing into corners (I always hole off till the second brake marker...).
The cars stock chassis appears to stay relatitivelly flat, up to and beyond the tires (only PR 185's) breaking point.
Maza did an admirable job on the sway bars and spring rates.
It seems rather funny to me, that this un-noticable little Japanese Grandpa styled sedan, can do all the stuff out of the box, that I modified a '62 Healy to try and even get near, back when...
In comparison to the Wifes 2002 Nissan Sentra, it is even more fun to drive!
Thanks for your help.
Dave N. (aka ZVP)
April-7th-2003, 05:58 AM
#4
formerly chastan
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: California, USA
Posts: 2,350
The rear drums actually have more stopping power than the rear dics from the LX models. Of course there is the issue of heat dissipation and all that. Check out the FAQ of course (top right) for some neat information. Now I just have to figure out how to get my damn drums off so I can replace the shoes, they are rusted on or something, lol.
Glad you like the car
Eugene -- don't think so, sorry.
Glad you like the car
Eugene -- don't think so, sorry.
April-7th-2003, 07:44 AM
#5
Protege Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Newman Calif.
Posts: 7
Been there,done that...
Eugene,
Thanks for the answer!
Intresting!
I'd have thought that the "swept" area was better!
Now I can maybe help you a little here.
Have done many drum brake jobs, and in some cases the shoes wear irregularilly across their surface. Sometimes, all that 60's and 70's Gas Station time I waisted, applies even today!
Common trouble. comes from having a goog self adjuster, and waiting TOO long to re-do the shoes, OK?
Tha pad actuallly digs into parts of the drum, or at best, has a raised ridge near the outer edge of the shoe, that prevents drum removal. Often a n old "Rivited" type shoe will start the irregular wear, so today we are very fortunate to have nearlly ALL bonded shoes.
The hopefull solution on your car would be to totally slacl the breke shoe off.
# first, inside the center consoule, at the parking brake arm, there is a 10-12mm bolt and nut. This is the parking Brake adjustment. Back it all the way off.
With the car jacked up and supported, crawl under, pull on and make sure the "E" Brake cable is slack.
Next, look for an external opening on the Brake backing plate (most all cars have one), and back the star self adjuster wheel off all the way.
This should give enough gap fpr drum removal.
Besides, it'll give you the chance to start out with a good "E" Brake adjustment from the start with new shoes and makes Bleeding the system more even and positive!
If ya think a tiny Mazda can grab the drum, just imagine how well my old '70 Impala's HUGE rear drum did... Ha-Ha!
Thanks for the answer!
Intresting!
I'd have thought that the "swept" area was better!
Now I can maybe help you a little here.
Have done many drum brake jobs, and in some cases the shoes wear irregularilly across their surface. Sometimes, all that 60's and 70's Gas Station time I waisted, applies even today!
Common trouble. comes from having a goog self adjuster, and waiting TOO long to re-do the shoes, OK?
Tha pad actuallly digs into parts of the drum, or at best, has a raised ridge near the outer edge of the shoe, that prevents drum removal. Often a n old "Rivited" type shoe will start the irregular wear, so today we are very fortunate to have nearlly ALL bonded shoes.
The hopefull solution on your car would be to totally slacl the breke shoe off.
# first, inside the center consoule, at the parking brake arm, there is a 10-12mm bolt and nut. This is the parking Brake adjustment. Back it all the way off.
With the car jacked up and supported, crawl under, pull on and make sure the "E" Brake cable is slack.
Next, look for an external opening on the Brake backing plate (most all cars have one), and back the star self adjuster wheel off all the way.
This should give enough gap fpr drum removal.
Besides, it'll give you the chance to start out with a good "E" Brake adjustment from the start with new shoes and makes Bleeding the system more even and positive!
If ya think a tiny Mazda can grab the drum, just imagine how well my old '70 Impala's HUGE rear drum did... Ha-Ha!
April-8th-2003, 05:55 PM
#6
formerly chastan
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: California, USA
Posts: 2,350
Yeah, I'm pretty sure the shoes are over-worn, when they were checked in July (8,000 miles ago?) they were rated at 40%. I wouldn't have thought they'd gone so low as to start digging into the drum, I'd think that'd make some noise, but eh. I did loosen the e-brake cable, but I hadn't really known about how to loosen the self adjuster, I'll take a look for it. (I looked it up in this book I have so I know what I should be looking for )
I'm guessing that then the drums themselves would need to be machined or replaced, eh? Sorry, I'm kind of a newbie at everything, I just thought while I had some spare time I could change the shoes until I had time to do a full servicing (120,000mi service), and have them look at it. The shoes themselves are only $20 anyway.
I did notice that (on both sides) the wheels turn freely, except at the same point in the rotation it always *rubs* a little bit, creatiting some friction.
The fact that the car was sitting for about 1 1/2 years in the garage with the parking brake on couldn't have helped that much, I'm sure
)I'm guessing that then the drums themselves would need to be machined or replaced, eh? Sorry, I'm kind of a newbie at everything, I just thought while I had some spare time I could change the shoes until I had time to do a full servicing (120,000mi service
), and have them look at it. The shoes themselves are only $20 anyway.I did notice that (on both sides) the wheels turn freely, except at the same point in the rotation it always *rubs* a little bit, creatiting some friction.
The fact that the car was sitting for about 1 1/2 years in the garage with the parking brake on couldn't have helped that much, I'm sure