Ok,here it is. I replaced the stock 6 1/2 inch speaker in the rear panel with nicer clarion ones, and i've since blown one of them, I've concluded that I'd like to get something bigger. Here's my problem, I want to put 6x9's in the rear panel, but , obvoiusly I have to do a bit of cutting of the metal. I was hoping someone here has maybe done this before and maybe has some advice on how to go about it. Like what tool to use to cut out the metal. Dumb question maybe, but, hey, I'm a newbie.

thanks

 

Check the audio forum.

 

I cant find an audio forum, and my question does fall under "general" as far as i can tell so...... anybody have an answer?

 

well, don't bother then, your answer is just use a reciprocating saw with a metal blade.. easiest way.. bar none.

 

http://www.protegeclub.com/forum/for...p?s=&forumid=4
Here ya go.

 

bah, shame those had to be merged

 

or do what I did. I used sheet metal snips (since I am a sheet metal worker) cut it out and use a file or small grinder to grind off any little metal burrs that could cut you during installation. the 6x9's sound better than the 6 1/2's. the speaker you choose is up to you.

 

dremel tool..... its your friend

 

dont cut it, it will weaken your rear deck and when the bass hits it will rattle so bad you wont believe it. trust me dont cut

get some boxxes and put them in that then slide them in your trunk

 

ok, so it's not a good idea to put 6x9's in the rear deck? I wanna do it cause i'm blowing 6.5's and i've seen lots of the guys on the forum have done it. If i put boxes in the trunk won't i lose a lot of the mid and high range sound quality?

 

yeah i say cut with saw or somthing like it i have 6x9's on my pro its perrty KOOL

 

oh yeah 1 more thing make sure your mssering is corect if not it could go bad have fun doing that man

 

1 more thing man lol i ment messuring
make sure when you are goin to huke it up that the wires are not tuching the medal KOOL !!!

 

I had a shop cut my 6x9's its a pain in the *** if you try to do it. I think they sound great and you really cant **** up because there is only one spot on each side that you can cut...the braces outline where you must cut young son. Be one with da sawsall.

 

honestly bro, i know what you speak of. the rear dash metal is pretty thin, however strong enough if you do it RIGHT. as far as using metal snips.. thats great if you're a sheetmetal worker.. but cutting through there is no easy chore.. and i'd imagine you'd end up using 2 different types of snips on that.. a pair of left and centers would do the trick, but even for a decent pair that will get the job done, you'd run 40 to 60 bucks on the two cutters alone. not to mention you'd have to have the wrist strength to do that. bottom line, find somebody with a saws all or works in HVAC and borrow them.. either wise, your next best bet is going to home depot or rent-a-center and renting a sawsall/reciprocating saw. as for rattling metal/weakening of the back dash.. here's where hvac comes in handy a few pieces of slip screwed in from the bottom width wise on the back dash or maybe even lengthwise, tapped in with some zaps, you should be fine.. and as far as rattling.. really all you would need is a good 45mil layer of dynamat on the top and possibly even the bottom if you're that extreme about it.. that alone would solve rattling and increase the structural integrity of the rear dash. aside from that, i would use carpet badding under the rear deck board and install the grilles directly onto the board itself and hold them in tightly with some small nuts and bolts. this would do you some justice to kill rattle as well
peace