Energy Suspension Bushings......Review
May-12th-2003, 09:47 PM
#1
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Huntington Beach, CA Uhhh Surfs up Dude
Posts: 2,367
Energy Suspension Bushings......Review
First things first, i highly recommed you locate and pre-arrange things with a machine shop BEFORE you take anything apart. The control arms are shaped in a way that makes them difficult to fit in most presses. After hitting atleast 5 shops sunday and 3 more today, i fonally found a shop to do the work, a custom street rod shop.
Finally, after months of creaky noises and a sloppy front end, i did the damn bushings!!! good thing too, as my ball joint conviently broke apart....
The actual wrenching time is not bad at all, pretty straight forward, nothing special. Here's a list of what i changed:
- Control arm bushings
- sway bar endlink bushings
- sway bar frame mount bushings
- new ball joints
- shifter bushing
- oil change (not related)
(rear trainling arms are next....)
The shifter nushing didn't do much at all, i did notice a tighter feel once in gear, but other than that, no change. (but mine needed changing anyway, barely touched it and it tore apart.
The Ride
If you want an agressive handling car, you race or you just want em, be forwarned, the ride is harsh. Pretty sure i can tell the defference between a penny, nikle, dime or quater now....The car tracks better, feels much more rigid and responsive. Steering and front end driver input is greatly enhanced. The car feels very solid and handles great. Turn has been enhanced as well.
If your just into light performance parts and still want that cushy ride, don't bother, get the stock rubber bushings if you need them.
notes:
All ES bushings are for a ZX2/Escort or Protege.
The Steering rack bushings do NOT fit the Protege. The 15/16" sway frame mount bushings are too big, but still usable. What i did was grind down the bushings a little (trim the bush) which made it pinch tighter, but when i installed em, i noticed the bar was still way too floppy. I noticed that even though the bushings opening is now tight to the bar, the "U" bracket was not pushing it down far enough when installed. So i took some ABS plastic and made small pads that fit under the bushing and fit inbetween the tabs of the "U" bracket. This was the ticket, as the bar was VERY solid, i had to use some force to move it.
All in all, an excellent mod, the car feels 100% better, i can't wait to test it this coming weekend racing
Finally, after months of creaky noises and a sloppy front end, i did the damn bushings!!! good thing too, as my ball joint conviently broke apart....
The actual wrenching time is not bad at all, pretty straight forward, nothing special. Here's a list of what i changed:
- Control arm bushings
- sway bar endlink bushings
- sway bar frame mount bushings
- new ball joints
- shifter bushing
- oil change (not related)
(rear trainling arms are next....)
The shifter nushing didn't do much at all, i did notice a tighter feel once in gear, but other than that, no change. (but mine needed changing anyway, barely touched it and it tore apart.
The Ride
If you want an agressive handling car, you race or you just want em, be forwarned, the ride is harsh. Pretty sure i can tell the defference between a penny, nikle, dime or quater now....The car tracks better, feels much more rigid and responsive. Steering and front end driver input is greatly enhanced. The car feels very solid and handles great. Turn has been enhanced as well.
If your just into light performance parts and still want that cushy ride, don't bother, get the stock rubber bushings if you need them.
notes:
All ES bushings are for a ZX2/Escort or Protege.
The Steering rack bushings do NOT fit the Protege. The 15/16" sway frame mount bushings are too big, but still usable. What i did was grind down the bushings a little (trim the bush) which made it pinch tighter, but when i installed em, i noticed the bar was still way too floppy. I noticed that even though the bushings opening is now tight to the bar, the "U" bracket was not pushing it down far enough when installed. So i took some ABS plastic and made small pads that fit under the bushing and fit inbetween the tabs of the "U" bracket. This was the ticket, as the bar was VERY solid, i had to use some force to move it.
All in all, an excellent mod, the car feels 100% better, i can't wait to test it this coming weekend racing
May-13th-2003, 10:18 AM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Paris Ontario Canada
Posts: 411
I recently got ES bushings for the LCA's and rear trailing links. WARNING: To those of us that drive our cars on salted roads in winter... trouble may be ahead!!!
Rear: I'll start with the rear trailing links. I soaked the nut and bolt a couple of times before attempting to remove the bolts (from the frame). The square nuts in the little metal cage still spun! I had to break the cage off, then use a reciprocating saw to cut the nut off. Normally not such a big problem.. new nut and bolt right? Nuts for the struts will work on these bolts (Bolts were I think they were $6 from mazda). BUT
the outer part of the mount has a hole that is bigger than the bolt! The nut that is supposed to be attached to the frame is what keeps the bolt in the right place, not the hole in the frame. With that nut gone, the hole is to big and the bolt will flop around. I had to create new brackets and weld them in so the bolt is properly supported on both sides.
On the good side... the rear trailing link bushings aren't to hard to install. I removed the old bushings by cutting the lip off, hammering them through. For installing remove the metal sleeves, and use a vice to install. It will take a few attempts but it doesn't take long.
Front: I started with drivers side. Again the weld nut spun(front bolt). I had to weld a big lump on the nut so it wouldn't be able to spin. That is a VERY tight spot to weld! I had major problems trying to clean the metal. Passenger side was a no go. I couldn't brake the front bolt loose using a spanner, and a socket and wrench won't fit on properly because of the oil pan. The rear 3 bolts were easy to remove though.
With that said, I didn't install the LCA bushings yet. I will wait till whenever I do my engine swap to remove the other bolt. I couldn't be bothered to remove the oil pan!
BTW I did sturts and spring at the same time as the rear traling link bushins, so I don't know how much tigher/harsher the bushings make it.
Rear: I'll start with the rear trailing links. I soaked the nut and bolt a couple of times before attempting to remove the bolts (from the frame). The square nuts in the little metal cage still spun! I had to break the cage off, then use a reciprocating saw to cut the nut off. Normally not such a big problem.. new nut and bolt right? Nuts for the struts will work on these bolts (Bolts were I think they were $6 from mazda). BUT
the outer part of the mount has a hole that is bigger than the bolt! The nut that is supposed to be attached to the frame is what keeps the bolt in the right place, not the hole in the frame. With that nut gone, the hole is to big and the bolt will flop around. I had to create new brackets and weld them in so the bolt is properly supported on both sides.
On the good side... the rear trailing link bushings aren't to hard to install. I removed the old bushings by cutting the lip off, hammering them through. For installing remove the metal sleeves, and use a vice to install. It will take a few attempts but it doesn't take long.
Front: I started with drivers side. Again the weld nut spun(front bolt). I had to weld a big lump on the nut so it wouldn't be able to spin. That is a VERY tight spot to weld! I had major problems trying to clean the metal. Passenger side was a no go. I couldn't brake the front bolt loose using a spanner, and a socket and wrench won't fit on properly because of the oil pan. The rear 3 bolts were easy to remove though.
With that said, I didn't install the LCA bushings yet. I will wait till whenever I do my engine swap to remove the other bolt. I couldn't be bothered to remove the oil pan!
BTW I did sturts and spring at the same time as the rear traling link bushins, so I don't know how much tigher/harsher the bushings make it.
May-13th-2003, 11:42 AM
#3
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Huntington Beach, CA Uhhh Surfs up Dude
Posts: 2,367
Yup, rust can sure **** up your day! and how you wleded the nut inside the LCA is a wonder to me...tight is an understatement...LOL
another very important note i forgot to mention. Especially with Polyurethane bushings, make sure to lube them well before installing. inside, outside, the part to be installed in, the sleeves, everything.
To access the front LCA bolt behind the oil pan, usea floor jack to push the oilpan up, i was able to slip a deepsocket and ratchit in there no problem. It's a little tricky with the lower tie bar, as your limited to a socket, but not much harder than without.
another very important note i forgot to mention. Especially with Polyurethane bushings, make sure to lube them well before installing. inside, outside, the part to be installed in, the sleeves, everything.
To access the front LCA bolt behind the oil pan, usea floor jack to push the oilpan up, i was able to slip a deepsocket and ratchit in there no problem. It's a little tricky with the lower tie bar, as your limited to a socket, but not much harder than without.
May-13th-2003, 01:50 PM
#4
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Montréal, CAN
Posts: 422
Why did you need to go to a machine shop?
What work had to be done to the bushings that required a mahcine shop?
I figured they would just replace the stock bushings... Uninstall the old ones and re-install the new ones...
What else has to be done to them?
What work had to be done to the bushings that required a mahcine shop?
I figured they would just replace the stock bushings... Uninstall the old ones and re-install the new ones...
What else has to be done to them?
May-13th-2003, 08:12 PM
#5
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Huntington Beach, CA Uhhh Surfs up Dude
Posts: 2,367
a hydraulic press will cost up to and over 1k, but a manual press is cheaper. I have a small one, but no way would the LCA fit in it, the one that was used was a bigger version of the one i had...go figure...
After 13 years, the stock bushings were quite comfortable in thier home, it took two 200# dudes to manually press them out, but the new ones went in like butta.
After 13 years, the stock bushings were quite comfortable in thier home, it took two 200# dudes to manually press them out, but the new ones went in like butta.
May-15th-2003, 02:18 AM
#6
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Location: Montréal, CAN
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Well, the front endlinks were broken which is why I bought the kit in the first place.
I put the ES endlinks in and it was the easiest mod I ever did on my car.
If I'm licky, the other ones will be just as shot, so they'll come out just as easily... Don't forget I live in the salt capitol of the world because of our winters, so my bushings are pretty dried out...
Anyways, they new endlinks feel alot tighter, but then again, I would obviously feel a difference since the old ones were broken and smaking around all over the place down there....
Thanks for the help guys!
I put the ES endlinks in and it was the easiest mod I ever did on my car.
If I'm licky, the other ones will be just as shot, so they'll come out just as easily... Don't forget I live in the salt capitol of the world because of our winters, so my bushings are pretty dried out...
Anyways, they new endlinks feel alot tighter, but then again, I would obviously feel a difference since the old ones were broken and smaking around all over the place down there....
Thanks for the help guys!
May-15th-2003, 10:27 PM
#7
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Huntington Beach, CA Uhhh Surfs up Dude
Posts: 2,367
Beleive me i know all about Montreal winters....i made it through 19 of them, Maudit!
I hated working on cars that were ridden hard and put away wet....
Cali has spoiled me for working on cars
I hated working on cars that were ridden hard and put away wet....
Cali has spoiled me for working on cars
May-16th-2003, 01:51 AM
#9
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Montréal, CAN
Posts: 422
I know I'm going a little off-topic here, but I know that there are a few of you guys right here that have them.... and rather than revive an ancient thred....
With my lowered suspension, is there a risk that the ZX2 struts won't hold up?
I've had bad experiences with Tokicos blowing up on other lowered cars... I don't want the same thing to happen on my car.
With my lowered suspension, is there a risk that the ZX2 struts won't hold up?
I've had bad experiences with Tokicos blowing up on other lowered cars... I don't want the same thing to happen on my car.
May-19th-2003, 12:37 AM
#13
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Location: Montréal, CAN
Posts: 422
Originally posted by snart
OK.... so what do salted roads do to the bushing exactly??
OK.... so what do salted roads do to the bushing exactly??
May-21st-2003, 08:16 AM
#14
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Location: Montréal, CAN
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Is this a bushing I can get out myself?
It's the rear trailing link if I'm not mistaken, right? If so, then like superdave said it should be pretty easy to get out. I just hope to God I don't run into the same problems he did.
I ask because I have to change it before I get an alignement done, so I need to get it out in the next 24 hours.
I will take it off and try to remove it, so hopefully I can remove it. Otherwise, I'll just have to cut it out or something and then hopefully, the other bushings will slide in pretty easily.
I'll check back here for any suggestions if I get stuck.
Thanks!
It's the rear trailing link if I'm not mistaken, right? If so, then like superdave said it should be pretty easy to get out. I just hope to God I don't run into the same problems he did.
I ask because I have to change it before I get an alignement done, so I need to get it out in the next 24 hours.
I will take it off and try to remove it, so hopefully I can remove it. Otherwise, I'll just have to cut it out or something and then hopefully, the other bushings will slide in pretty easily.
I'll check back here for any suggestions if I get stuck.
Thanks!
May-21st-2003, 09:23 AM
#15
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Paris Ontario Canada
Posts: 411
Thats not it!
The rear trailing link is the one that runs from front to back.
I don't think changing the rear trailing links will affect your alignment. I wouldn't be in a huge rush to do it. Thats also just asking for trouble with the rusty bolts! SOAK the frame mount end with penetrating oil several times, and several days before you try and remove them!
The rear trailing link is the one that runs from front to back.
I don't think changing the rear trailing links will affect your alignment. I wouldn't be in a huge rush to do it. Thats also just asking for trouble with the rusty bolts! SOAK the frame mount end with penetrating oil several times, and several days before you try and remove them!