Please Please Help me, Need advice and Help
I replaced my CV boot on driver side and since then I am experiencing sounds coming from the front like under dash and under the car. My fear is it is from transmission. Is it possible that while replacing CV boots something in transmission was damaged ?
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
possible but this is such a vaue and generalized question that you're not going to be able to get any real help....unless someone more knoweldgeable is in your area and willing to come by on July4th weekend to look at it for you.
CV Boot and Transmission Issue
Thanks for your reply. I will try and run some tests and see what I can gather. The car is suddenly having multiple issues and I am trying to gather test results and conduct some initial analyis myself. I will keep all of you posted.
Thanks and Have a good weekend.
Thanks and Have a good weekend.
More Information
In addition to the noise I also saw some strange things, some of them are as follows. I think they are not replated to each other.
1) The RPM at idle jumped to 1800 or so
2) sometimes the car started to stumble
3) Fuel odour
Started checking following things based on Haynes manual
1) Throttle Body - Cleaned
2) Fuel Injectors - Inspected and are working
3) TPS - Working fine
4) EVP cansiter - No leaks or cracks etc
5) Changed spark plugs
6) MAF checked and working.
7) While checking IAC (Idle air control) I observed that the resitance between the connector terminals is within the standard range (14-16 Ohms) , But when I pulled the connector out the RPM dropped to 900 and car started running properly.
Please let me know if it means that my IAC needs to be replaced ?
Thanks and I hope everyone had a good weekend. :-)
1) The RPM at idle jumped to 1800 or so
2) sometimes the car started to stumble
3) Fuel odour
Started checking following things based on Haynes manual
1) Throttle Body - Cleaned
2) Fuel Injectors - Inspected and are working
3) TPS - Working fine
4) EVP cansiter - No leaks or cracks etc
5) Changed spark plugs
6) MAF checked and working.
7) While checking IAC (Idle air control) I observed that the resitance between the connector terminals is within the standard range (14-16 Ohms) , But when I pulled the connector out the RPM dropped to 900 and car started running properly.
Please let me know if it means that my IAC needs to be replaced ?
Thanks and I hope everyone had a good weekend. :-)
hmmm ECTS was replaced last year
ECTS was replaced last year when the check engine light started to come on. so I checked the code and replaced ECTS. But I will check its resistance and see if it is faulty.
Thanks and Regards.
Thanks and Regards.
there are 3 sensors that measure the engine coolant temperature.
there is the probe for the gauge in the dash,
the ECTS that goes to the ECU for fuel related issues,
and one for the thermostat to switch on and off.
make sure it is the green one you are replacing.
there is the probe for the gauge in the dash,
the ECTS that goes to the ECU for fuel related issues,
and one for the thermostat to switch on and off.
make sure it is the green one you are replacing.
Update on various issues
Hello ,
Thanks for all those suggestions and help. I was out last week to CA so could not work on car.
On Saturday I took the throttle body out and cleaned it inside out. It was my first job on automibile so it took me some time. The cleaning seems to have fixed hesitation and hickups. I will test drive the car for a few days and see if everything is ok.
The car still have following issues outstanding and your opinion or help on these issue will help me learn more.
1)When the car is started the RPM goes straight to 2200-2500. It drops down (800-1000) when I start driving it . What can I do to correct that.
2) The ringing sound coming from the bottom is still there but only when breaks are applied.
3) I wanted to change the transmission oil (while I was on the roll
) but the drainage nut is so tight that I cant even move it. Is there any way to loosen it. Already tried WD40 . Did nothing.
So please provide your suggestions and help. I am learning something every day.
Thanks and I hope you all had a good weekend.
Bye
Thanks for all those suggestions and help. I was out last week to CA so could not work on car.
On Saturday I took the throttle body out and cleaned it inside out. It was my first job on automibile so it took me some time. The cleaning seems to have fixed hesitation and hickups. I will test drive the car for a few days and see if everything is ok.
The car still have following issues outstanding and your opinion or help on these issue will help me learn more.
1)When the car is started the RPM goes straight to 2200-2500. It drops down (800-1000) when I start driving it . What can I do to correct that.
2) The ringing sound coming from the bottom is still there but only when breaks are applied.
3) I wanted to change the transmission oil (while I was on the roll
) but the drainage nut is so tight that I cant even move it. Is there any way to loosen it. Already tried WD40 . Did nothing.So please provide your suggestions and help. I am learning something every day.
Thanks and I hope you all had a good weekend.
Bye
I provided little bit incorrect information in the previous post. The sound from the bottom is coming initially when I start the car then the sound stops and when I start driving and accelarating then it comes . Please let me know if anybody can guess what this sound could be. As I said the major work done on the left side was change of CV boots and Axel.
Thanks
Thanks
Thanks to all those suggestions and all the help. I basically cleaned up the throttle body and everything else all the way upto air fliter. To my total surprise the car stopped hesitating not more sound from the bottom either.
All I need to do is replace the transmission oil and fuel filter. Thanks again and Have a great weekend.
All I need to do is replace the transmission oil and fuel filter. Thanks again and Have a great weekend.
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