Well i have been thinking about going turbo and I think that it will happen this summer. but since i will not have the money up front i will do upgrades one at a time or in a group. the question is that if i would get the gude P&P head, camshafts, and throttle body would still work when it is time for the turbo?

the plan is to do the full exhuast and the head, camshafts, cam gears, finish intake, bottom end of the engine rebuilt, about all at the same time with income tax( should have those anyday now)

clutch and flywheel

then get the standalone

trannsmission rebuilt for the high boost

then the turbo, manifold, injecters, fuel pump, intercooler, gauges

that is about what i am going to do. i need to do upgrades one at a time, or in groups so i can still keep the car to drive everyday and so that i can see the upgrades and what they do to the car performance wise and driving wise. and i what to do this right i do not want to only run 6lbs of boost i want like 17 or 18lbs if i am going to spend money on this project i want to go all the way.

 

Here's a thread that you'll most likely find interesting and very informative........

http://www.protegeclub.com/forum/sho...highlight=gude

 

I have gone thro that page already. as i read it for like the 3rd time i think that i am going to change the way that i do the mods.
i think that i will do the full exhuast, and finish intake then get the standalone. this is only the me throwing up idea so please keep the replys coming.

 

How much does that package from gude run?

 

i have tried to email them and get the prices but they have not returned the email.

 

For the P&P head, throttle body, and the cam?

 

I have heard that just the Haltech E6k can tune the car stock with 120whp ( at the wheels) not like 97 with the stock ECU. Is this true i can not remember where i have heard this but is it true?

Just thinking here but if you get the normal Geine header, new cat, and full custom tubing and the RX-7 vaf you should have like 130 whp. ok still on the stock ECU would you still be able to get new cams an make the most of the power that you should get or would that just be a waste of time without the standalone?

 

I think that you'd still be able to see gains, but there would be more to gain if you had the stand alone.

 

There was one of these Gude packages on eBay last month, but after talking with the guys here and reading the posts, I decided not to get it. For the same amount of money you can get a GTX engine and ECU from Braden (turboge), which in it's oem state would give you ~160hp at the wheels (just guessing) since it's rated at 185hp. Put a Haltech on it and you'd get 200whp easy I would think.

If you want to stay NA, I wouldn't go any further than the intake, header, and maybe cams/gears. Beyond that, you're probably wasting your money. That's the route I'm taking. However, if you do this and then decide to get a GTX motor, most of your intake mods and the header will have to go - keep that in mind.

 

I was looking into the Gude cams recently and I know a guy that is willing to sell me his USED racing grind cams for around $300. This seems like a good deal to me, but what are the gains that I should expect. I've read that people say 10-12 horses, but I highly doubt that it'll be that much. Is it worth getting cams now if I plan to turbo the car in the future? Also, how good are the Gude / Corksport cams? The Miata people don't seem to like them that much.

 

If i do get the E6k now with the NA engine that still would help me out performance wise right. i am not doing to go turbo until the summer because i don't want kids at school to know. i want to go back to school next year and race for money and not have them know that over the summer i put 4k into the engine and i have the power for a 12sec run. but back to the ECU i know that the ecu on the pro is one of the major things that hold the car back so if i get a good one now before i even do any major mods then i will be able to run max boost right from the get go when the turbo is ready.

 

You can buy those cams off the guy, but you certainly won't see any gains simply by putting those things in. You need two things plus those cams to make power. One: you need a standalone, which you've already been considering so I won't go over that. Two: you need compression. If you buy the standalone and cams and spend some time on the dyno tuning it, you won't come up with as much power as you would had you put in some high compression pistons. If you don't want to spend the money on custom forged pistons, which can set you back upwards of $400 or more, you can deck the block, shave the head, and buy a set of 2001 miata pistons. You might be able to get about 11-11.1:1 compression in the baby. Course, after doing that, you will most definitely need to have adjustable cam sprockets because of the reduction in distance between the crank and cams that will retard the timing.

However, all of this will build a nice NA engine, but you talked about putting a turbo in. If you're going turbo, don't bother with the cams. Racing cams aren't going to help in a turbo application much. For one it's turbo, and you're forcing air in there; the stock cams will be fine.

If you really are going to stay away from an NA engine and go turbo, then just buy the standalone, P&P the head, and put on a nice header. You can make the header all 3" like Braden did and that will leave you room for the turbo once you put it in.

Don't bother with Gude. IMO, they're all ****-faces. After my experience with the "owner," I'm not going to support them in the future.
Just take your head to a local machine shop that is -good- and have them P&P the head. Make sure they take out the portion of the valve guides that stick into the intake ports (it's how it is in my Gude head), as it really helps with airflow, and you'll really see the gains from a good P&P with the standalone and 3" exhaust. If you want, you can also buy a set of solid lifters and shims from either Toda or a Mazda dealer. From the dealer the lifters are going to be $160 so buying from Toda ($135) may be the better alternative. The solid lifters will improve performance as well with everything else that I've mentioned. The shims are what eat ya. They're $5 bucks a pop, and that's for only one size. It's not like you pay $5 and you get five different sizes. Sucks, but what are ya going ta do?

As for the intake mani, all Gude does is clean up the rough spots along the runners, which isn't much at all. It's just certain spots in the casting where the two peices join. You can do that with a f'n dremel.
For an NA application, our intake mani's aren't that good, but you're going FI so you need not worry about that.

One thing you can do is put in a map sensor (make sure it's at least a 2bar map sensor), and then you do not have to futz with the VAF and possibly reduce the intake length to improve throttle response.

I'm getting a bit too carried away here.... :P


Just my two cents.

Later on.

 

Rollerwave Pistons


Those are some nice pistons. Next time I decide to do a NA project (which will not be any time soon ), I'll definitely be buying a set.