AlexB2

Just wondering if I have a problem....

Rear pads are gone at 48,000 KM, while fronts still have about half the depth. Even wear all around the rear ( inner pads slightly more worn, 'course). The only thing I noticed is that rears are really really close to the disk, to the point that it is harder to turn without the wheel, than the front disk. There is no fade ever, brake feel is fine, fluid is fine too. Disks are not warped. I don't drive with the handbrake up, or anything....

I've never had a car with rear disks before, and I would usually go thru 2 sets of front pads for one set of rear shoes.

Is this normal? Is this normal for a Protege?

Thanks...

tonkabui

some protege5's had a sticking caliper issue that was taken up with the dealer as a warrantied fix. see if you can get them to admit to it. it sounds like that's what's going on with your pads.

AlexB2

So, just turning that caliper adjustment screw to loosen the pads' grip on the disk wouldn't help?

Also, was there a TSB on this, that you can remember?

AlexB2

Don't think it's a sticky caliper... Read on a Jag board that a sticky caliper goes like this: you brake, come to a stop. Then, when you accelerate, you drag the brakes. You then touch the brakes as you are moving, which "resets" them. Sort of like when pads get skewed. See, what I have is the consistent "closeness".

Having read the manual, which says something like "turn the allen screw until the pads just touch the disk, then turn back 3/4 of a turn" or similar. See, now that I know that it's not just me, I think some bozo in Hiroshima had too much sake the night before, and forgot the "3/4 turn back". I'm going to change the pads either next weekend or the following, and follow the manual. Then, I'll drop the car, drive it a bit, raise again and see it the wheel is any harder to turn. I'm hoping that's all this is.
http://www.protegeclub.com/newreply....te=1&p=336159#
cheers
I'll report my findings....

AlexB2

OK...Replaced the rear pads. Looks like they clamp really close to the disk by design, otherwise the handbrake does not work...I even tried to loosen the pads and play with the handbrake adjustment screw near the lever to compensate....

BTW, the shop manual does not tell you that there is a screw-plug to be removed to get to the allen screw to move the caliper back.

phishstik

My rear pads starting "rubbing" at 50 000km, while driving i could hear the rear left pad squael a little, so i knew pad was screwed. This was last april, needed new pads AND rotors.

Now im at 56km , doing exact same thing again, this time needs new rear pads, and new pads/rotors on front end. The rear ones must slightly rub over time.... and i should really downshift instead of coast i guess

AlexB2

Huh? 6K later? Shouldn't happen even if you coast.... Did you buy crappy pads? Maybe you overtightened the allen screw on the caliper?

As for coasting / downshifting - there are proponents of both. You either wear pads rotors or you wear the tranny / clutch / engine mounts. I downshift simply 'cause I'm used to.

Why new rotors? Could you not machine them?

phishstik

The pads will be underwarranty, im not sure what kind they were. My uncle is going to machine the rotors for me so I won't need new ones again on the back.....

I have no clue why rotors are wearing out like this, im at 56 000km and all 4 will have been replaced. I'm not a heavy braker and I don't screw around with parking brake (sliding and whatever). Could be some of the crappy dirt roads I'm on sometimes, dunno.

P5red

Inspected brakes today in my 2002 p5 w/36,000 mi and found passenger side rear outer pad had worn to 2mm. All other pads have 4 to 6mm.
Slide pins seemed to have sufficient lubrication. I wonder if the manual adjusting screw was set wrong at the factory.
What do you use to lubricate the slide pins when replacing pads? Antisieze compound?

AlexB2

I think you might be right....In my case, the rear inner driver side was worn.
I use some very thick thermal grease from my dad. It has a consistency of peanut butter. You don't want to use the antiseize stuff, you need something that dissipates heat, I believe.