curleydx

Hello, I have a 2000 dx w/1.6L. The plug closest to the driver side (w/coil pack) popped out). It burned the plug boot. IT also scrwed up the wire/spring. I bought a new one MAZDA $150!!!! Put it in last week. Ran perfect. Yesterday, car doing the same thing again, popping& missing. So, I thought maybe the other coil went bad. However what I found was the same plug popped out of the head again. The threads on the plug were stripped..... Can I HeLI-COIL the plug hole with the head still on? Or do I have to have it removed? How can I keep the metal pieces from falling into head? Is this possible?

I would appreciate any help I can get


Curleydx

Bill

It can be helicoiled. Make sure you find a GOOD shop though, you don't want a 'hack' to do a job like that.

Omron

metal bits = Magnet

problem sovlved
either that or you roll over your car

Bill

What if the head is aluminum??

curleydx

The head is aluminum. I was thinking the same thing about the magnet. I'm thinking on rotating the cylinder to TDC, then go for it. Then use compressed air to blow out the debris, then change the oil. I talked to the local MAZDA dealer they only said they won't HELI-COIL w/head on car$$$$$$. A buddy of mine who is a diesel mechanic where I work said it can be done, without any problems. The MAZDA dealer wants to replace the head, especially because it has a lotof miles. THIS CAR RUNS PERFECT!!!!.... Check this out .. The A-hole salesman heard me drive up and said"Hey, we have a RED TAG clearance on the MAZDA 3."
What a jerk!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Curleydx


Thanks for the replys

juddz

....personally, I would pull the head to make sure you clear all of the debris out. With a little oil holding chips against the piston and combustion chamber, it's going to be hard to blow them all out. And, the last thing you want is little metal chunks packing themselves into your valve seats, becoming lodged on surfaces and getting hot enough to cause pre-ignition, etc.

A lesson to anyone, remember that proper tightening angle for a spark plug is 2/3 of a turn past hand tight (when you feel the gasket begin to seat) or 25-30 Nm in an aluminum cylinder head (M14 plugs only).

Bill

Sometimes threads become damaged due to corrosion, look up "dissimilarity of metals" or some such on a search engine. You should ALWAYS use a good hi-temp anti-seize on spark plugs, as a preventative. See if your mechanic friend will help you out.
Salesmen can be real jerkoffs. Just remember the guy and make sure you never buy a car from him. Several years ago one made some smartass remarks about me and my then car, so I walked off. 4-5 new cars later, not one of them was bought at that dealership(Gunn Honda-Bandera Rd.).

curleydx

hey : I got it fixed. I was going to borrow the correct tools& and have it towed home, but it would have cost more. I paid $125 to a local mazda repair shop. It was done the next day.

Thanks for the replys,

Curleydx

Bill

Cool, keep us posted on how it works out.

Rusty

Just one last comment. Setting the piston at TDC is probably a good idea, but drill as slowly as possible and have someone vacuum it (a good powerful sucker) while you drill, keep it there as you remove the bit, then continue vacuuming it good when finished. NEVER blow it out.

Glad you found a good shop.