Draining All Fluids
 

I just started my project car this weekend and one of the first things I want to do is drain all the fluids. Am I correct in assuming these are the only fluids on the '92 Camry : oil, transmission fluid, brake fluid, power steering fluid, coolant, and windshield washer fluid? If there are any others, let me know please. Also, once I drain each system, how do I prevent any corrosion or damage from occurring? Just flush them (besides engine and tranny) with water? Let me know please, it would be a big help! Thanks!

Yikes! Glad you asked!
 

:eek:
DON'T FLUSH ANYTHING WITH WATER, except the coolant! Water will destroy the brake system. Flush it with brake fluid, and only then if the brake fluid's really dark.

A couple other things to keep in mind:
1. Brake fluid rating. Most cars use DOT 3 fluid, but a few use DOT 4. The two can't be mixed. Make sure you check the cap.

2. Check the power steering fluid requirements; some cars use auto transmission fluid for PS, and I can't remember if Toyota is one of them.

3. If the car is going to be sitting for a while, it's probably better to just leave the brake/PS/tranny fluid alone until you're ready to drive again. In a full system, there's no place for corrosion to go, but once it's exposed to air, then you get problems.

Good luck, and PLEASE don't put water in anything except the radiator!

I plan to take everything apart, so I just thought it would make life a little easier in the long run to have all the systems empty. Once I drain/flush each system properly, will it begin to corrode if I leave it empty?

Re: Yikes! Glad you asked!
 

DOT 3 and 4 aren't compatible?

I plan to take apart everything just to see how it all works and fits together. I'm more of a visual/hands on learner. It's hard to grasp certain ideas when people try to explain it, or I just read it in a book. I need to see these things for it to make a lot more sense. That is why it is my project car. :)

Re: Re: Yikes! Glad you asked!
 

I think in the FAQ it explains why they are not compatible if I remember correctly...

Nope, DOT 3 is oil-based, and DOT 4 is silicone-based.

And if it's going to sit for any length of time, I'd really try to keep the fluids filled. Think about it: corrosion is caused (among other things) by oxygen. If the system is full and closed, there's no air, hence no corrosion.

You might want to think about breaking the car down into sections to work on: engine/trans, suspension/steering/brakes, cooling/HVAC, etc. It's a great way to learn cars, though. Have fun! Oh, and pick up a Haynes book for the car if you don't already have one. Best repair manuals out there, IMO.

I planned to get a Haynes/Chilton for it and also probably a shop manual if I can get my hands on one. I already drained the oil from the engine. Won't the thin coating of oil on everything prevent any corrosion within the engine itself? Also, there is no tranny fluid in it...will that begin to corrode too or what?

Get the Haynes book. Clearer instructions & cheaper.

No, the engine & trans. should be OK, because they're vented to the air anyway. I'd be more worried about the brakes and the PS rack. You just don't want to get rust inside the calipers or in the brake lines. Also, brake fluid absorbs water, like alcohol does. If there's any condensation left in the system when you refill it, you'll contaminate the fresh fluid and open the door for rust.

Out of curiosity, is it a 4 or a V6? Stick or auto?

Isn't that DOT 5 that's silicone based?

Come to think of it, you're right. But you still can't mix 3 and 4.

Reason I ask....
http://members.cox.net/ivmazdafan/dot.jpg

• ...
• Recommended for all ABS.., hydraulic drum and disc braying systems and hydraulic clutches requiring DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluids.
• ...
• Exceeds DOT 3 and 4 and all leading auto manufacturers' requirements.
• Mixes with conventional brake fluids.

Return it?

Hmm. I was always told you couldn't substitute one for the other. Maybe I was wrong. Maybe you can go up, but not down, or something like that. (use 4 in a 3 but not 3 in a 4)

I'll do a little research, and if I turn anything up, I'll let you know.

Oooh, found this (in google cache)
http://216.239.51.100/search?q=cache...ng_en&ie=UTF-8

Yeah I'd say you can't go from 4 to 3, it's a decrease in performance, but I didn't really consider that because my manual says DOT 3, haven't really heard of too many cars requiring DOT 4, I didn't think anybody would start off with 4 and go to 3. :)

The Haynes would be cheaper and probably clearer...but does it have all the torque specs and stuff like that for all the in-depth stuff in the engine?

It's an auto 2.2L 4-banger. Nothing too special, I just wanna take it all apart, the engine mostly. It will be quite an adventure. Thanks for your help so far.