How to: N/A Power Stage 1 - Basic Modifications
 

[size=20pt]NA Power Stage 1[/size]
(designed, primarily for the Mz3)

This is the first stage of modifications for owners who want to start modding, or just give their 3 a peppier response, smoother acceleration, better electrical efficiency, and a small increase in gas mileage. Anyone interested in these primary modifications can easily access the instructions as I’ve linked to them. No need for searching and coming up empty. These modifications are very basic, very easily reversible and will not void your warranty.

1. Throttle Body Ground
2. Full Ground Kit - Voltage Stabilizer/Condenser Kit
3. Intake resonator removal
4. Panel filter replacement
5. Short shifter


1. Throttle Body Ground
Install: 5-10min (http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2400612)
Info: TB torque spec: 6-8ft/lb
Cost: $3-5
Pros: Smoother acceleration, Smoother shifting
Cons: N/A
This is one of the simplest do-it-yourself modifications you can do. It primarily consists of one heavy gauge wire (8-10ga) connecting from one of the bolts from the throttle body to the negative terminal or the main chassis ground. Users report a more linear acceleration and slightly better throttle response with grounding directly to the negative terminal. This in itself is a drivability mod. It will not show in a dyno as the throttle is at WOT (wide open throttle) the whole time. Dynos don’t test for throttle response.


2. Full Ground Kit -- Voltage Stabilizer/Condenser Kit
Install: 10-30min
Info: TB: 6-8ft/lb; Fuel Rail: 14-19ft/lb
Cost: $5-180
Pros: Smoother acceleration, Better mileage, More Power
Cons: N/A

Added note (3/14/07): This takes over the TB ground. Can be purchased through stores like http://streetrays.com and http://hopupracing.com

A ground kit consists of several heavy gauge wires connected to a central unit; some are connect to the negative terminal of your battery. Stabilizer kits include a capacitor to regulate voltage.
These capacitors theoretically would reduce headlight dimming of 3s with stock halogens, but the alternator is too weak to help prevent that. They will however increase the electrical efficiency of the car. Steer clear of the $29 stabilizers on ebay. Stick with Buddy Club Condenser (http://buddyclub.us) or Apexi (http://www.apexi-usa.com) for the stabilizers. At the moment, there are much more 3 owners purchasing the BC Condenser due to its cost, look, and it’s been dyno-proven. If you don’t want to spend too much, you can make your own ground kit or purchase a universal kit from ebay. The universal kit's wires are not often very flexible, and the shipping costs too much.

Install is as easy as the throttle body ground, if your kit has a condenser/stabilizer; you just connect the condenser’s positive wire to the battery’s positive, and negative to negative. The ground wires can then be attached from the condenser to the ground points. I’ve chosen the left strut tower, the fuel rail and the throttle body.

Skeptics will always debate power gains, but here is my dyno for the Buddy Club Condenser. The graph looks that way because the run was started on 3K. More in this later.

Mods: AEM Intake + RX8 Wheels + Buddy Club Kit (taken at4500ft)
Info: RX8 wheel/tire combos are 45-46lbs total per corner (vs 42lbs for 17”, 39lbs for 16”)
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3. Intake Resonator Removal
Install: 30-1hr (http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60565)
Cost: $0
Pro: Less intake restriction, CAI preparation
Cons: N/A
You can remove your stock intake's resonator to produce a stronger growl. This does not exactly make any power, but it prepares you for the stage 2 modifications. If you plan to just replace your stock air panel filter, then I advise you to do this step as well. You don’t need the intake resonator for a dealer to do engine work/diagnosis.


4. Replace Stock Air Filter
Install: 5-10min (remove 4 clips on the air box, lift up, remove stock filter, replace with new)
Cost: $40-60
Pros: Better mileage and engine efficiency
Cons: N/A
Replacing the stock paper air filter with a K&N panel filter will let the engine ingest more air than the stock filter due to the less restriction provided by the K&N (http://knfilters.com) . If you would like to go with an aftermarket later on, it would be advisable to skip this step of your modification process.

Part Numbers:
2.0L/2.3L : 33-2293
1.6L: 33-2874


5. Short Throw Shifter
Install: 30-60min (http://www.twmperformance.com/manual...3%20Manual.pdf)
Cost: $150-200
Pros: Shorter throw, Positive shift feel
Cons: Notchy shift feel
A short shifter shortens the throw by 20-40% depending on the brand. A suggestion is to purchase the kits that have a bend towards the driver, for aesthetics. Notchiness will be felt shifting with the stock knob. This will be alleviated with a weighted knob. The best and more expensive knobs come from TWM. This modification will not reduce the life of your transmission.

Shifters Kits (throw reduction):
TWM : http://twmperformance.com (40% / 2.5” height reduction)
ARK: http://www.arkspeedracing.com (35%)
Mazdaspeed: (20%)



You’ve now completed Stage 1. If you wish to continue, Stage 2 is slightly more involved, but it will introduce you to the bread and butter of the bolt-on modifications and better power gains