Mazda3/Mazdaspeed3 Engine/Drivetrain Modification Discussions for the Mazda3 and MazdaSpeed3

2004 Auto Clunk shifting out of park

Old November-9th-2011, 10:40 AM
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2004 Auto Clunk shifting out of park --- SOLVED ---

I just bought a Mazda3 and when I shift out of Park into reverse (particularly) it has a pretty good clunk. Seem like its in the front CV axel Area, but of course hard to tell from inside. Will also do it going into drive, but less severe. Sometimes it just shifts in perfectly no bang , clunk or anything.

Has anyone had this with their 4 speed AUTO trans.

Seems to be worse when Im on slight incline like my drive way.

Thanks for any help

Last edited by sohip; March-16th-2012 at 11:28 PM.
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Old November-9th-2011, 11:10 AM
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sounds like a loose engine mount allowing something to get bumped. the exhaust may be rusting off by now, that moves a bit with the engine too & could be hitting something.

do you get similar noises when accelerating (in fwd or rev) or over bumps in the road?
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Old November-9th-2011, 11:55 AM
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I dont get any noise over bumps or anything. Pipe is 100%, pretty low K car.

About 3 times out of five when I go from park to reverse.

The mounts "look" alright. But I dont think I can be sure Inless I pull them out (?) Id suspect the lower one if any. But from what Ive read it seems like there is tons of slop right from the factory.

Im suspecting the axel on the driver side (guessing). I read some guy had a spindle nut that was not to torque and was doing similar. What is the torque ?

Thanks for trying to help me.
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Old November-10th-2011, 11:16 AM
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You can check the lower mount, it comes out easily, just use your e-brake & leave it in neutral so there's no torque on the trans. I stiffened mine up by adding some gel in the open areas - but that's another story.
people have had rocks get stuck in the lower mount - could be that too. And the upper "#3" mount near the serpintine belt is prone to breaking which is a recall for pre-2006 models... see if its oozing oil.

as for the spindle nut, just crank on it with a breaker bar - it'll be tight enough - think it's on the order of 100 ft lbs... but not sure off hand. and I think there's a spline in there, so even if it was loose there wouldn't be much play until the nut was way loose.
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Old November-11th-2011, 11:01 AM
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I will check the lower mount this weekend. I do recall seeing some oil or something around the passanger side strut area when I was underneath (maybe #3), I will have to investigate that one for sure.

I think that spindle nut is a bit of a wild goose chase, but I will double check it when I put the winter tires on this weekend.

Thanks for the help.

Also, what did you put in the mounts. Some sort of mastic sealer, or gasket maker or something ? I might as well load it up while I have it off Thanks again
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Old November-12th-2011, 07:13 AM
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If you saw some oil, i'm sure that #3 mount is leaking & that's your issue.
As for the mounts, I have put silicone (standard tube caulk) on the upper mounts - one under the battery, and the #3 mount. Though they didn't move much anyway, the lower mount is super soft, and that makes a big difference in engine vibration depending what you put in it.
Initially I put some silicone and other hoses & such as filler - that added more vibration than I was willing to accept, and I then got some "liquid plastic" from lurecraft.com - the formula 550 is their stuffest stuff, and worked well for the mount... though it could be a little stiffer even. One downside is it's just a silicone, and not an adhesive, so it will peel out of an area if it's not completely enclosed. For the lower mount, I put a small tube on the mount to fill it up to the same thickness as the location on the vehicle frame, so it was a squeeze fit to put it in. That is working well, adding just a bit of vibration, but it allows me to feel the clutch bite a little easier.

Good luck.
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Old December-3rd-2011, 05:10 PM
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Shift vehicle from Reverse to Park while having someone check motor mounts, you should be able to hear them knocking...

As mentioned the P/S mount is prone to leaking, and the bottom mount is known for collecting rocks however that usually causes a constant vibration.

Regards,

Braden
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Old March-1st-2012, 09:31 PM
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I never did resolve this problem. Just driving it as-is occasionally.

I took out all three motor mounts and all were in perfect condition. I wanted to make absolute sure.

I changed the trans fluid and filter with mazda MV fluid, old fluid was still red but Im pretty sure it was Mercon V.

Its like a clunk sound when shifting from park to reverse, and kind of shutters the hole car.

Ive heard of TSB for special washers in the CV and new bolts but those washers are 182 bucks a side and I cant afford to guess with 400 bucks right now.

Anymore ideas, Im all ears.

2004 2.3L Auto

Last edited by sohip; March-1st-2012 at 10:43 PM.
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Old March-10th-2012, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by sohip View Post
I never did resolve this problem. Just driving it as-is occasionally.

I took out all three motor mounts and all were in perfect condition. I wanted to make absolute sure.

I changed the trans fluid and filter with mazda MV fluid, old fluid was still red but Im pretty sure it was Mercon V.

Its like a clunk sound when shifting from park to reverse, and kind of shutters the hole car.

Ive heard of TSB for special washers in the CV and new bolts but those washers are 182 bucks a side and I cant afford to guess with 400 bucks right now.

Anymore ideas, Im all ears.

2004 2.3L Auto
Now I have P0706 code and goes it to Limp mode from time to time. starting in 3rd (I think). Range Sensor or something ...
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Old March-16th-2012, 11:22 PM
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--- SOLVED ---

It threw the P0706 code once and never again after clearing. It didnt start the other day in "P" but it "N" and it started (first time it ever did that)

Installed a new INHIBITOR SWITCH and clunk / thud / shutter fixed. The rest of the world calls this the Transmission Range Sensor.

There are 2 internal splines (plastic) on the switch and they were stripped off .

Hope it helps the next guy. Part #FN02-21-44 / FN0221444 CAD 63.00 from Mazda OEM

The part is adjustable and there are slots on the 2 hex bolts that hold it down. Make sure all your PRND lights show up when you adjust the switch.

Last edited by sohip; March-16th-2012 at 11:26 PM.
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Old April-19th-2012, 04:27 PM
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Just saw your post and I immediately had to register to make a post. I have an 2004 Mazda 3 as well and have what seems to be nearly identical to the issue you were having. Whenever I put it into reverse from park I hear a very large clunking sound. I actually took it to the dealership today for an oil change and a quick inspection and they told me I needed to replace my #3 mount and that, that was the reason I was hearing the clunk sound every time. Did you ever get it checked out by anyone who mentioned anything like this to you?
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Old April-19th-2012, 08:29 PM
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The engine/transmission mounts are a notorious weak point on these cars. If it is recommended to change by a shop Im sure that will cure your problem. I took everyone out in my car and they were good. #3 is the one under the car I believe, very easy to change, support motor and replace (as mentioned by poster earlier in this thread). It keeps the motor from twisting, the rubber internally rips (hard to tell visually unless you take it out).

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/su...3849_mount.gif

My car had the PDNR lights not showing properly, I had to further diagnose. (As I posted above)
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Old May-9th-2012, 08:34 PM
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sohip, can you give any pointers or pics on how you did the install? I have the same problem you had but don't really know where to start with the install. Thank you for any help you can provide.
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Old May-9th-2012, 09:18 PM
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The switch is located at the front of the car and I dont think I even had to jack up the car. There is a large bolt 17mm or so (holding cable mechanism). Its like 17mm but you want to loosen that bolt but not allow the cable mechanism to turn. I dont recall how I did that maybe just holding the out side with pliers and loosen the bolt. Same thing when reassembling. I think you will break the 2 little plastic splines in the switch if you let it spin.

2 hex bolts actually hold the switch on, those need to be removed and of course the electrical connection. Do reverse to reassemble but only snug the 2 bolts holding switch, make sure 2 plastic splines on switch are aligned to metal shaft on car. Start the car and see if P lights up when in park, D in drive, M etc . IF they dont then "adjust" the switch/snug and try again the holes are slotted for that reason (the hex bolt holes). I went back and forth 3-4 times to get it right.

You may first try to just "adjust" your existing switch first. It may just be out of wack or the hold down hex bolts arent tighten down. Never know.

Thats all I can recall, its been a while. Hope it helps.
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Old May-9th-2012, 09:47 PM
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Thanks for the write-up sohip, appreciate it very much.
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