GripQueen

I started having this problem about two weeks ago. At first i noticed that it only happened when it got cold outside and now it's just happening every time I try to take out my key. I checked my key to see if maybe it was bent or something but it's not and it's doing it with my spare too. My key gets stuck and it won't come out of the ignition. Today it wouldn't even turn. It's like the key was locked in there and the steering was locked as well. I think it may have something to do between the locking of the steering and the key switch. Has anyone else had a problem like this one?

djs2571

If it's hard to turn, i'd say the whole lock mechanism needs replacement. But do make sure to turn the wheel to see if the steering lock pin is binding the key.
Also, is this an auto / manual, and what year... Auto's usually have a solenoid that only allows you to remove the key when it's in park - so it could be the solenoid or park switch if it just doesn't allow the key to go to the off position so you can remove it (pretty sure that's where it locks the key). But the park switch doesn't (shouldn't) effect any other key movement.

GripQueen

Hey thanks for the reply.. I think you're right about the lock mechanism needing replacement. The wheel gets seriously stuck and I cannot unlock the wheel. I noticed that if I jiggle the switch while struggling to turn the wheel it sorta unlocks and then I can get the switch moving but it feels like its grinding inside. It's a 2005 manual tranny. Do you know how much it would cost to replace this?

icspots

Can you describe more when this happens? You should be able to move the key freely between ACC and START. If the steering is locked you'll need to twist the wheel to get to ACC, and since you have a manual you'll need to depress the release button to get the key past ACC to remove the key.

You shouldn't be able to lock the steering column with the key still in the ignition. Once you remove it you can by twisting the wheel slightly, then when you reinsert the key you have to turn the wheel slightly again to turn the ignition to ACC.

Does it happen in a particular position of the key? What I mean is can you not turn the key/ignition back past the ACC position to remove the key, or is the key itself getting stuck? If you stick the key in and then try to remove it without turning anything does it come back out or does it bind?

And just to confirm are you pushing the lock release button to bring the key past the ACC position?

If the key is binding just going straight in and out then I'd recommend lubricating the ignition. I'd recommend a dry lubricant, but failing that just spray some WD-40 or something on your key and then put it in and out of the ignition several times and see if that helps.

rb

Hi

I have a 2004 mazda3 2.3 l hatch. My key trouble started a few months ago. The key is easy to insert (1 oz of force) , hard to remove (maybe 4 or 5 lb of force). Once it is in (easy) it turns normally. Even if you partially insert it, it is hard to remove. I have tried a bit of lube - made no difference. Today the key would not turn. I jiggled the key and at the same time worked the steering wheel from side to side. Eventually the key turned

I decided to replace the lock mechanism (ordered new one from dealer, $195, includes 2 new keys)

To remove the old one, take off the neg wire from battery.
Wait more than 1 min for the system to discharge.
Remove the steering wheel airbag by removing 2 rubber plugs under front of column, and 2 x 12mm bolts. The airbag will lift away easily. avoid the front surface (danger).
use a small flat screwdriver to pry up the black metal clips on the 2 connectors to the airbag. Remove connectors and airbag. Store with connector side down for safety.

a 21 mm nut holds on the steering wheel. Remove the connector, the spade terminal and the ground screw (phillips). No puller is needed to remove the wheel.

3 screws hold the console cover together, along with a few snaps. start at the front steering shaft hole and work back.

put the key in and jiggle till it turns to "accessory"

use a small screwdriver to depress a small black pin that secures the lock cartridge. The pin is on the upper surface, about 2 inches in from the keyhole. The entire mechanism will pop out.

Replacement is the reverse of these steps.

The new keys need to be programmed to work with the interlock system. follow the steps to reprogram a new key using 2 original keys. When it says to insert an original key, instead insert one of the unprogrammed new keys and just hold the original key plastic xmitter end next to the new one while doing that step (the old keys will not turn in the lock) When it says to insert the key to be programmed, move away all of the original keys


Hope this helps

Note...even when the old lock cartridge was removed from the car, the key goes in easily and is hard to pull out. Also still takes a lot of jiggling to the old cartridge get it to unlock. Someday I will saw it apart and find out what went wrong.

emptythevoid

Was following your procedure. I got the new cylinder in, but I'm getting stuck on the anti-theft programming. Here's what I'm doing:

1.) Stick new key in ignition. Hold one of the original keys plastic part to the plastic on the new key. Turn to On. Wait for a few seconds. (During this whole time, the anti-theft light is flashing fast). Take key out.

2.) Same as step one, except with the other original key. (anti-theft light still flashing quickly).

3.) New key in, turn to On. Take key out. Try to start. Fails.

I'm not certain the anti-theft system is detecting the original chips with the new key in the ignition, but I could also be messing it up. Any thoughts?