Break Force Needed For Mazda 3
 

Hi

I am buying my first car and it is the Mazda 3 2008. I am wondering though how can I tell if the breaks are using the full power breaks?

I test drove a Mazda 3 and like the car and actually put a deposit(getting a good deal) down and will be picking it up tomorrow.

The breaks seem to be stiffer than what I am more use to driving. I am use to driving a 2002 Mazda protege and it requires alot less force than the Mazda 3 to apply the breaks.

I however don't know if this is a problem, or normal due to the fact that the Mazda protege is older(so maybe a bit of wear and tear) and the fact the protege is like 400 pounds

I driven several 2010 Yaris and I know the pedal was the same stiffness. I than drove some 2010 and 2011 Corollas and it was not as stiff as the Yaris or Mazda 3 but still not like the protege.

Can someone shed some light on this?

different models of car feel different, due to different systems (brake size, vehicle weight, amount of brake assist/boost). So I wouldn't worry too much, but it is always a good idea to make sure the calipers aren't sticking, pads / rotors are in good shape - especially with a "new to you" vehicle.

Good luck

Try inspecting the surface of the rotors & pads.
Poor braking performance can occur for a few reasons.

Crystallized brake pads and/or shoes: The brakes have been heated up to the point that they become hardened and are no longer effective at grabbing and stopping the rotation of the brake drum or rotor. This condition usually occurs after the brakes have been overused, either because of excessive panic stops or "riding of the brake." The braking material must be soft enough to wear and grab hold of the drum or rotor to stop the car. Excessive overheating hardens the braking material beyond its ability to do this. Consequently the brakes become ineffective.

Oil-or grease-soaked brakes can negatively affect braking -- how does this occur? Oil from the rear differential or front transaxle can get on the brakes from an oil seal that might have failed. Grease from a failed rubber boot on a front end component (such as a ball joint or tie rod) can find its way onto the brakes and cause this symptom as well.

Loss of power assist from the power brake booster is another cause for poor braking performance. It can occur due to a loss of engine vacuum, or deterioration of the vacuum brake booster diaphragm.


Squealing or grinding noises coming from the brakes is usually an indication of worn or glazed brake pads and/or shoes. It's time to have them checked. If you catch them in time you will save money. Procrastinate and suffer the financial consequences.

Pulling or grabbing to one side can happen for a number of reasons. Pulling can occur from maladjustment of the brakes, a frozen brake, brake fluid leakage, frozen emergency brake cables, or oil or grease leakage on the brake shoes or pads.

Loss of brake pedal usually is a result of brake fluid leakage due to failure of a brake hose or rusted metal brake line, worn wheel cylinder or brake caliper, or worn master cylinder. A simple "once over" of the system can reveal what's going on.

Pulsation of the brake pedal is caused simply by heat and wear. Heat and mechanical wear thin out the brake rotor, or drum, causing warping. This warping translates into a pulsation (up and down motion) of the brake pedal while applying the brakes. Re-machining or replacement is the answer in this case.

Clicking noises during braking have been a problem ever since disc brakes came on the scene. The disc brake pads are held in place by pressure from the caliper against the brake rotor. It's somewhat of a loose fit. The factory installs "anti-rattle" devices to stop movement of the brake pads, which will stop the clicking noise. These devices are made of spring steel and over time become brittle and break, allowing the brake pad to loosely ride in its seat, causing rattling.

Excessive drag during acceleration: Ever feel like someone "threw the anchor out" (so to speak) during acceleration? Maybe it's because the emergency brake cables are frozen due to rust buildup, and are not releasing when they're supposed to. A simple way to avoid this is to use your emergency brake! Remember this very simple rule -- "If you don't use it, you lose it!"

all the cars are different but most of these tips applies to the brakes, hope it helps ...