Turbo
#1
Turbo
Would this work with our 2.0L?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...DME:B:EF:US:11
Starting to get a bit of the bug and might start picking up the odd piece here and there. Just would put a rebuild kit in it.
Thanks
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...DME:B:EF:US:11
Starting to get a bit of the bug and might start picking up the odd piece here and there. Just would put a rebuild kit in it.
Thanks
Last edited by Shasta; September-30th-2007 at 03:01 PM.
#2
Hmm why does this situation sound familiar?
But to answer your question, YES that will work if you plan on using the MSP turbo mani. S13's came with T25 turbos, but S14's had T28s .. so this one will work with the MSP setup.
But to answer your question, YES that will work if you plan on using the MSP turbo mani. S13's came with T25 turbos, but S14's had T28s .. so this one will work with the MSP setup.
#4
Umm I dunno if the OBX mani will work or not. I'm pretty sure they OBX uses a T3 flange and the T25 requires a T2 flange instead. If you wanna go with the OBX route then a T3/T4 hybrid would work alright.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong on this tho. I'm not 100% certain but I'm almost positive that's how it works.
EDIT: Found more info and it turns out I was right. The OBX mani will NOT work with a T25 but even if it did you don't want it. It's garbage.
https://www.mazda3club.com/parts-sale-wanted-43/t3-t4-turbo-ebay-46904/
Someone correct me if I'm wrong on this tho. I'm not 100% certain but I'm almost positive that's how it works.
EDIT: Found more info and it turns out I was right. The OBX mani will NOT work with a T25 but even if it did you don't want it. It's garbage.
https://www.mazda3club.com/parts-sale-wanted-43/t3-t4-turbo-ebay-46904/
#7
Most of the cracking is due to people using aftermarket downpipes that remove the brackets that the stock downpipe bolts to the engine block through (two of them.. ). Without those brackets, all of the weight of the turbo is on the manifold, and when the engine moves (as it does if you don't have poly bushings) it puts a ton of stress on the manifold.
I'm sure the thunder manifold is good, but I know for a fact that the Callaway is way overengineered.. there are 450+whp race Proteges.. using the stock callaway manifold (stock turbo as well.. obviously not a streetable tune)
I'm sure the thunder manifold is good, but I know for a fact that the Callaway is way overengineered.. there are 450+whp race Proteges.. using the stock callaway manifold (stock turbo as well.. obviously not a streetable tune)
#8
most definately wouldnt go obx...they are trash...they have a lifetime gurantee..but you will need a new one every couple of months...they rust really bad and produce random holes...they say stainless...but they lie!!!!
#9
All good to know, who knows if I'll actually start laying down some funds for odds and ends. Only thing really holding me back is the higher octane required and the biggest thing is reliability.
#11
I feel exactly the same as you bud. Except I have to worry about tuning the FPR & o2 clamp as well cuz I can't use the MSP ECU (I have a crap-o-matic tranny) so I'm definitely having second thoughts about it. But it's probably gonna happen sooner or later .. I think I'll just wait it out until spring time cuz I don't see a point in having a turbocharged daily driver during the winter. As a matter of fact I think that might even be a little dangerous..
#12
oh it's not dangerous, it's a BLAST!
You could always disconnect the wastegate actuator entirely in the winter (A 5 minute job if you can reach the c-clip on it without removing anything, letting it flap freely (it'll always stay open). that way you won't enter boost (I think not at all, assuming the wastegate chamber is large enough that ALL of the exhaust gasses can make it through).
You're just worried about having too much power on the snow, right?
check this: http://youtube.com/watch?v=R5dJe28VuGM
You could always disconnect the wastegate actuator entirely in the winter (A 5 minute job if you can reach the c-clip on it without removing anything, letting it flap freely (it'll always stay open). that way you won't enter boost (I think not at all, assuming the wastegate chamber is large enough that ALL of the exhaust gasses can make it through).
You're just worried about having too much power on the snow, right?
check this: http://youtube.com/watch?v=R5dJe28VuGM
#14
check this: http://youtube.com/watch?v=R5dJe28VuGM
#15
...check this: http://youtube.com/watch?v=R5dJe28VuGM