Nos: Dry shots Vs Wet shots
November-6th-2006, 01:11 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 419
Nos: Dry shots Vs Wet shots
Ive asked over on Msprotege.com and couldn't get an answer, so I'll try here. There is a big perception that our Proteges can't handle nitrous. What it does to the engine is not worth the 5-6 seconds of boost. But if researched and done right, nitrous can also be benefitial. Basically, what my question is is: Would the ZM-DE engine (which is known to be strong for boost) be able to handle a 50 shot of dry nitrous? This will be coupled with my turbo kit in the future, but for now this will be as close to F/I as I get. Many members on Msprotege.com has said that dry kits are easier to maintain and easier to understand for those that are new to nitrous, as in my case. I wouldn't need anything extraordinary or extravagant, but just something straight to the point and no nonsense. Are things like a bottle blanket and bottle warmer necessary for dry shots of N2O? Any and all help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
November-6th-2006, 01:40 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 778
The guys at ms protege dont know jack on the ZM dont ever listen to them.
ZM is fine even on nitrous. I recommend a wet shot though as its safer and we have no fuel management available to us. A 50 wet shot shouldn't be a problem.
ZM is fine even on nitrous. I recommend a wet shot though as its safer and we have no fuel management available to us. A 50 wet shot shouldn't be a problem.
November-6th-2006, 01:56 PM
#3
Moderator/ Pocket Tuner
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Tampa,Fl
Posts: 4,150
there are +'s and -'s on both....
assuming EVERYTHING is always equal the wet shot does tend to be a little safer
HOWEVER, if bottle pessure is off, the bottle is a little too cold, you have an issue with a solenoid, or pretty much any problem at all with the nitrous system, youy can end up dumping too much fuel and have a big fat backfire...depending on where the backfire occurs, this could be as bad a catastophic failure !!!
with a beginner, I would prefer the dryshot....that way if the amount of nitrous is a little less than anticipated, you just arent making as much power as expected..
taking the right precautions, like, colder plugs, making sure the fogger is placed correctly, and has a good stable connection, and all your electronics are hooked up correctly, and only using it with the full throttle switch, I really believe the dry is safer...
the engine should hold up fine on a 50 shot though, assuming everything is done properly
assuming EVERYTHING is always equal the wet shot does tend to be a little safer
HOWEVER, if bottle pessure is off, the bottle is a little too cold, you have an issue with a solenoid, or pretty much any problem at all with the nitrous system, youy can end up dumping too much fuel and have a big fat backfire...depending on where the backfire occurs, this could be as bad a catastophic failure !!!
with a beginner, I would prefer the dryshot....that way if the amount of nitrous is a little less than anticipated, you just arent making as much power as expected..
taking the right precautions, like, colder plugs, making sure the fogger is placed correctly, and has a good stable connection, and all your electronics are hooked up correctly, and only using it with the full throttle switch, I really believe the dry is safer...
the engine should hold up fine on a 50 shot though, assuming everything is done properly
November-6th-2006, 02:05 PM
#4
Spam Czar!!
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Cedar Falls, Iowa
Posts: 2,315
The FS-DE engine has proven itself to be very incapable of handling nitrous. However, that does NOT apply to all Protege engines. I don't know much about the ZM engines, but a 50 shot should not be a problem. You also have to take into consideration that the majority of MSProtege's members who have installed nitrous (NAWS) kits are more than likely amateurs that feel the need to punch it with N2O at every stop light ... but I'm sure as long as you use it sparingly and don't let your RPMs redline your engine will be fine.
MSProtege is only good for buying and selling stuff .. I don't know how many times I'm gonna say that but the majority of people on there are just full of BS. There are plenty of members that know their stuff, but they just don't bother posting any useful information so the "monkeys" end up dominating.
MSProtege is only good for buying and selling stuff .. I don't know how many times I'm gonna say that but the majority of people on there are just full of BS. There are plenty of members that know their stuff, but they just don't bother posting any useful information so the "monkeys" end up dominating.
November-6th-2006, 02:54 PM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 419
Originally Posted by macdaddyslomo
there are +'s and -'s on both....
assuming EVERYTHING is always equal the wet shot does tend to be a little safer
HOWEVER, if bottle pessure is off, the bottle is a little too cold, you have an issue with a solenoid, or pretty much any problem at all with the nitrous system, youy can end up dumping too much fuel and have a big fat backfire...depending on where the backfire occurs, this could be as bad a catastophic failure !!!
with a beginner, I would prefer the dryshot....that way if the amount of nitrous is a little less than anticipated, you just arent making as much power as expected..
taking the right precautions, like, colder plugs, making sure the fogger is placed correctly, and has a good stable connection, and all your electronics are hooked up correctly, and only using it with the full throttle switch, I really believe the dry is safer...
the engine should hold up fine on a 50 shot though, assuming everything is done properly
assuming EVERYTHING is always equal the wet shot does tend to be a little safer
HOWEVER, if bottle pessure is off, the bottle is a little too cold, you have an issue with a solenoid, or pretty much any problem at all with the nitrous system, youy can end up dumping too much fuel and have a big fat backfire...depending on where the backfire occurs, this could be as bad a catastophic failure !!!
with a beginner, I would prefer the dryshot....that way if the amount of nitrous is a little less than anticipated, you just arent making as much power as expected..
taking the right precautions, like, colder plugs, making sure the fogger is placed correctly, and has a good stable connection, and all your electronics are hooked up correctly, and only using it with the full throttle switch, I really believe the dry is safer...
the engine should hold up fine on a 50 shot though, assuming everything is done properly
Thats what I figured. Everyone I have talked to has told me the wet kit is ultimately "better" if one is going N2O, but for beginners and such, a dry kit would be best. Like mentioned in the first post, this will be coupled with my turbo kit in the future, so I don't need any kind of super boost from the kit. Just something "big" enough to work fairly well in conjunction with the turbo. As far as your thinking goes Mike, I agree with you about the dry shot. Since I would be going into this eyes wide open, I wouldn't really know what to expect. Going in with little to little to no expectations would be best I suppose.
The colder plugs, fogger and such is all needed for a dry kit? Is a purge valve needed as well? What exactly is the fogger for?
November-6th-2006, 03:29 PM
#6
The man behind the mask
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 11,572
I've run several nitrous kits through the years and my personal favorite for a street car is a zex dry. I can go on for hours about nitrous but I'm at work and will leave you with this:
Sometimes it's better to go ahead and spend the money to build the bottom end than to not build it, blow it, and be stuck with it. If you can't afford to build it to start with you don't need to boost it. If you CAN afford to build it DO IT!
via con dios fs-de
Sometimes it's better to go ahead and spend the money to build the bottom end than to not build it, blow it, and be stuck with it. If you can't afford to build it to start with you don't need to boost it. If you CAN afford to build it DO IT!
via con dios fs-de
November-8th-2006, 09:19 PM
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 419
Originally Posted by Roddimus Prime
I've run several nitrous kits through the years and my personal favorite for a street car is a zex dry. I can go on for hours about nitrous but I'm at work and will leave you with this:
Sometimes it's better to go ahead and spend the money to build the bottom end than to not build it, blow it, and be stuck with it. If you can't afford to build it to start with you don't need to boost it. If you CAN afford to build it DO IT!
via con dios fs-de
Sometimes it's better to go ahead and spend the money to build the bottom end than to not build it, blow it, and be stuck with it. If you can't afford to build it to start with you don't need to boost it. If you CAN afford to build it DO IT!
via con dios fs-de
How would I go about building up the bottom end if I have an auto? New valve body and torque converter would be a start? So in order to run a nitrous kit, I should build the engine up like I was going turbo, correct?
November-9th-2006, 11:09 AM
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 778
ZM needs no building thats not a problem. They can run 30 psi on stock internals. Its niice.
Auto you say, that is a problem. THe auto trans will only hold 160 lb/ft torque. before just melting, less if used everyday. I think mines going out at near stock power. You have a plastic torque converter. Just swap the trans for a manual it would be easier. New valve body is a good idea though. lentech makes them for the focus and we share that trans.
Auto you say, that is a problem. THe auto trans will only hold 160 lb/ft torque. before just melting, less if used everyday. I think mines going out at near stock power. You have a plastic torque converter. Just swap the trans for a manual it would be easier. New valve body is a good idea though. lentech makes them for the focus and we share that trans.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
zchild92
Off-Topic
0
December-2nd-2002 12:17 AM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
