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-   -   Wiring from alternator to battery (https://www.mazda3club.com/exterior-interior-audio-4/wiring-alternator-battery-28062/)

MisterT July-1st-2003 06:25 PM

Wiring from alternator to battery
 
I have the 2.0 engine and was wondering what the best way to get to my alternator so that I can run 4 gauge wire from the alternator to the battery. From the looks of things, it appears that going under the car would be the best bet. I was thinking of using the car jack on the passenger side to raise it up. Also, are there any steps I should take in doing this?

My plans are to run 4 gauge from the battery to the alternator, upgrade the power wire to the fuse box, and install a ground kit to help eliminate or decrease the dimming of the headlights and get the most out of the stock alternator and battery. Any suggestions? Also, any precautions I should take (other than not being intoxicated leaving the parking brake off while in neutral)? :p

Thanks my friends!

:shift: Mister T :shift:

Dave Cameron July-1st-2003 07:10 PM

Adding an additional wire from the alternator to the battery is a good idea, and the heavier ground is a good Idea, but I would let the wiring to the fuse block rest in piece. It is not really an issue related to the dimming anyway as the amp is wired to to the battery direct.
Supplements to the stock wiring is a great notion, but try to leave the stock stuff there also, it will hopefully avoid some arguments with the dealerships if warrenty work comes up.
Use as heavy a guage wire as you can run, I often use 2 guage for this type of upgrade. The O2 free fine strand stuff. For the electron crawl, surface area is king, so the more strands the more surface area.
Try to avoid any engine hot spots if you can, heat is hard on the wire and the electron crawl process. I often use a thermal wrapping to help offset the prospects of engine hear at least on the positive run between the alternator and the battery.
Have you given any consideration to a larger battery yet? That along with giving the battery a chance to recharge will do as much as anything to help out with your dimming. :cool:

toucci July-1st-2003 09:19 PM

shouldn't you just install a cap? :confused:

MisterT July-2nd-2003 06:11 AM

Thanks Dave. Toucci, I do have a 1.5 farad cap, but still dimming persists (otherwise that would do the trick), and I am sure it would be worse without the cap. Thanks for the input though.
I looked at Blue LEDz's car, but his engine isn't a 2.0 liter one, so he has more room to work with. My 2.0 liter appears that I would need to go under.

If I use 2 gauge wire to the alternator, is 4 gauge ground kit sufficient or do I need the same gauge (like when wiring an amplifier)? I do plan on upgrading the battery after this. I wish just simply getting a bigger battery would be the solution, but I would still probably need to do some rewiring under the hood.


Mister T:D

MisterT July-4th-2003 05:04 PM

Blue, do you think 4 gauge is sufficient to run from alternator to the battery or should I go with the 2 gauge in this case?

Dave Cameron July-4th-2003 05:39 PM

It wasn't a question pointed to me-;)
But I would think that 4 guage would be great for your needs, as Blue says- unless you are thinking to powering a battleship worth of electronics later- :p then 4 guage will be perfect.
Sorry I could not help but chime in!
Happy fourth by the way!! :cool:

MisterT July-4th-2003 10:28 PM

Sorry Dave, I just was confused with what gauge to use so I can get it right the first time. I am going to keep what i have, but use a ported box instead of the sealed. I don't plan on replacing the amps unless they go. If the 3.0 goes first, I will use the 6.0 on the highs and get a class D amp for the lows. If the 6.0 blows, then I will get a class D amp for the lows and leave the 3.0 on the highs. Blue, are you in FL this weekend or still in Chas.?

MisterT July-4th-2003 10:51 PM


Originally posted by blue LEDz
i'm down here in FL. on your amp rack, is the back of it at the exact same angle as the seat? it looked like it was. also, how far away from the seat is the back of it? i want to get started designing a box for you:D
I am not sure. I have to measure it. I know it was to be flushed against the back seat, but measurements were off because I used a circular saw versus a table saw, so when I went to put it in, it wouldn't fit like it should. There is probably about a 20% angle roughly. From putting the seats down they have about an inch from the back seat since they are not exactly flat any way. I have an angle shot of it, but it looks as if it is almost up against the rear seat of the car. It's good you are in FL getting your goodies that was shipped to you. I know you don't miss the place where you are in Chas. Are you bringing your table saw back with you or leaving it in FL? Maybe I need to go down there with you (esp. if it is near Daytona Beach):D All the girls this time of year! I wouldn't want to leave! :drool: LOL

MiStEr T

MisterT July-5th-2003 10:20 AM

I like the Alpine 9815 I think it is. Mucho dinero though. It too has a silver face plate, but the buttons are blue. I don't know if they are adjustable to match interior lights. The JVC you are talking about will go with the silver Protege and I see the lights are orange (minus the display which you can have graphics on it). Cool deal.

MiStEr T


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