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sub woofer
Has any purchased a subwoofer yet??? I need a littled extra Thump. Nothing over the top.. Just enough for me and my passengers.
Alex 02 silver/wanted a yellow one but the wouldnt budge on the price. |
Not quite sure what you're asking there, if you're asking how many of us have subwoofers in our cars, I would say a good chunk of the people here do...(I have two in mine) :)
If you're looking for a reccomendation on a subwoofer, figure out your price range...there are subs out there from $20 to $2000, then you've got to get a decent amplifer to power the beast :D For a little extra bump I would recommend 1 or 2 10-12 inch subwoofers in a ported enclosure for a fairly efficient setup. Trust me on this one though: car audio is addictive! Before you know it you will sink hundreds - if not thousands - of dollars into your system. Rob '92 Blaze Red DX http://members.sounddomain.com/hiredgoon |
Thanks for advice Rob. I guess I wasnt really specific. I am lookn to spend (dont laugh) around $300-$350 for my sub.
Im only going to push about an additional 150 watts. |
For a basic system for pretty cheap, a good quality 10" subwoofer in a sealed or ported enclosure should give you what you want
Check around for some of these: JL 10W0 Orion Cobalt MTX Thunder 4000 Infinity Reference Pioneer TS-W254C Sony Xplod Kicker Comp Cerwin-Vega HED...the list is endless As for amps, any good quality (Pioneer, Orion, MTX etc) 2-channel amp rated for anywhere around 50x2 watts RMS would give you enough power to run a subwoofer if you bridge the amplifier to mono. Another thing to look at would be powered Bazooka tubes. But stay away from those "all-in-one" packages that have subwoofers and tweeters built in the same enclosure. Hope this helps if you have any more questions there are plenty of people here that can help you out!!! Rob PS I have used some of the subs listed above (Pioneer, JL, Orion, Sony) and all of them were great additions to the stereo system, and I would definitely recommend them. The Sony is in my brother's car in a ported enclosure, running off a bridged Pioneer amplifier. It's only getting about 130 watts but it is enough to shake the rearview mirror! |
I would recommend a JL 12W3. They cost between $150 and $200. Very good driver. The key to subs is the amp though. The more power you put on a sub the more controll you have over it. I am running about 500W on mine. It sounds awesome. When I had the box made for it I had my friend at the car audio shop contact JL and ask for specific dimensions for my box based on my listening preferences and needs. This is what my trunk looks like:
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...b/fdf99922.jpg http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...9/fdf99920.jpg http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...c/fdf93816.jpg http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...9/fdf93813.jpg Goto a car audio shop and listen to some speakers and make sure when they play something for you its what you listen to, and also ask which amp they are using. They will use a really powerfull amp and when you install it in your car with a weaker amp it will not sound any where near as good. Have fun and happy thumpin' |
Originally posted by azrakain The key to subs is the amp though. The more power you put on a sub the more controll you have over it If you can get a good kick in the chest when a bass drum hits, that signifies pretty good control. |
I have 2 kicker comps. ANd they rattle the hell out of the bumper and wing. The wing light rattles the most. Can't wait for my dynamat clone to arrive.
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Which would generally hit harder, two moderately priced 10s or one more expensive 12?
I'm looking for pretty much a combo of spl and sq |
Originally posted by Gro Harlem Also there is a huge misconception about Rockford amps. I don't know what it is, but everyone thinks they are excellent amps. It is true that they put out their rated power (and then some) but the sound quality coming out of them is decreasing as the model's are redesigned. I had a 800a2. It was benchmarked at 868 watts. It hit low and hard, and at the time, i thought the sound quality was excellent. After hearing some PPI, memphis and JL audio amps however, i'd have to say otherwise. Their newest "dot" series i've heard are worse. I've heard them breifly in a few show cars and wasn't too impressed. |
i have two 10"s going in my car soon powered by a 1200 watt rms class d amp i am getting an alarm first i will put up some pics when i install them in about a month i just got my car a week ago so im kinda broke to buy the install wires.
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Actually for the price the rockford amps are great. They all surpass their power ratings. My particular amp had a ciertificate in it that said it was tested at 836W. Thats 336W more than its stated max output. I would agree however that rockfords previous amps were better and had a cleaner sound. I would also agree that brand has something to do with it and that's why I would not get a MTX amp. JL has awesome amps as well. Would recommend them definetley.
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Originally posted by Gro Harlem yup, brand name means everything. if you bought a pyramid amp that says it is 800 watts and put it on a JL Audio 12w3, it'd 1: sound like shit, and 2: would really only be putting out 200 watts or so RMS (very low quality watts at that). Brand name is not everything, I am using a profile amp to power my sub and it sounds alright but has no kick. I hooked up my brother's Pioneer GM-H200 to it and there was a very noticeable difference. These lower-brands generally do not use as high quality internal parts. Plus most of them rate their RMS wattage actually hard into clipping and at a much higher voltage than stated. |
Bazzoka Preamped Tubes
1 Attachment(s)
:eek: I purchased a rs10a-hp Bazzoka off ebay for $300, it sounds great! Preamped 300w, fits perfectly behind the larger fold down seat in my 2001, took about an hour to hook up the amp wiring kit and put it in. Looks great too. Good Luck! :eek:
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I don't mean to undermine your car audio prowress in any way, but I would bet you that if you took two amps and played them at the exact same output level and switched back and forth between them, you wouldn't know the difference. Amplifiers are basically transformers that amplify voltage. That's it. They should not add or detract anything from the music because they increase voltage pure and simple. To really say "This amp sounds better than that one" you would have to keep everything equal except for the amp, and you'd have to match the output level with a voltmeter.
Originally posted by Gro Harlem yup, brand name means everything. if you bought a pyramid amp that says it is 800 watts and put it on a JL Audio 12w3, it'd 1: sound like shit, and 2: would really only be putting out 200 watts or so RMS (very low quality watts at that). Also there is a huge misconception about Rockford amps. I don't know what it is, but everyone thinks they are excellent amps. It is true that they put out their rated power (and then some) but the sound quality coming out of them is decreasing as the model's are redesigned. I had a 800a2. It was benchmarked at 868 watts. It hit low and hard, and at the time, i thought the sound quality was excellent. After hearing some PPI, memphis and JL audio amps however, i'd have to say otherwise. Their newest "dot" series i've heard are worse. I've heard them breifly in a few show cars and wasn't too impressed. Anyways, for your application, i'd get a JL audio 10w3 or some kind of JBL sub, and amplify it with a MTX amp or Kenwood amp. Both amps are pretty good quality and aaren't priced too bad. You'd be satisfied with rockford, but they are generally a lil more expensive. |
I think it would sum it up to say take what you think sounds best.
I had pretty much the same discussion in a stereo shop, the dealer was trying to sell me American made amplifiers (Kicker) and that Japanese amps are garbage, I then asked him why he is wearing an Eclipse t-shirt and after he couldn't really come up with a response, I walked out the door. :rolleyes: |
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