speaker watts difference?
What is the difference between a speaker that has: 100 Watts Normal :: 300 Watts Maximum vs. a speaker with: 80 Watts Normal but 400 Watts Maximum.
Which one is better then? :yell: :confused: :wtf: |
The higher watt speakers can take more of a beating, but at the same time too low of wattage can blow them also..
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Just reserve it to yourself
Dude, if you DO NOT know what you R talkin about, PLS DO NOT replyh....
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alright alright, i was just trying to help out......
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and just for the record ive seen speakers that have had normal usage and blown quicker than speakrs used how should a putt it, agressivly...
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RMS is important nothing else. MAx power claimes are always total BS, the company just guesses.
The 80 Watts Normal but 400 watts max is odviosly made by a really crappy company like lightning audio or something else that would be found at walmart. Never buy something that has the max wattage all over the front of the box, thats usually a bad sign. The max power is just there to get people that dont know to but. |
Bad day.
Originally Posted by WTF
Dude, if you DO NOT know what you R talkin about, PLS DO NOT replyh....
It does not make any sense what you are sayin, so stay with your and post somewhere else. Sorry to be harsch but is obvious U are just takin out of U'r ASXXZZHS. B It Dude. Have a good one. :evilgrin: |
RMS (Root-Mean-Square) is the max current, expressed in Watts, that a speaker can take consistently and not be damaged from. The MAX rating is there so that in the event of a transient (a sudden peak, a huge bass boom, any big increase of current), the speaker is rated to take that amplitude but only for a very short while- running above the RMS value for extended periods is a great way to blow your fancy new speakers.
Running amplification that is way lower than the rated RMS value of your speaker can also blow it- a speaker expects to see a certain amount of resistance, and if it's underpowered, it can go. Your best bet is to stay within the ratings, +/- 5%. A 400W amp @ 100W x 4, powering 4 drivers that are each rated at 100W RMS will give you a great result- when the amp is properly matched to the drivers, the sound is nice and full without distorting at higher or lower volumes. Yay! ciao, Andy |
Running amplification that is way lower than the rated RMS value of your speaker can also blow it- a speaker expects to see a certain amount of resistance, and if it's underpowered, it can go. Look when you turn down your volume you are underpowering the speakers. The problem occors when you run your amp and head unit at max. The devices cant handel this; and the signal goes from looking like a sin wave to looking like a square wave. This means that the speaker pushed up and holds that way (extremly bad) If you run the amp at 1/2 and the headunit at half it doent matter if you have a 1 watt amp running the biggest dam sub around. |
Originally Posted by zerocover
What the hell are you people taking about go read a book or something!
Look when you turn down your volume you are underpowering the speakers. The problem occors when you run your amp and head unit at max. The devices cant handel this; and the signal goes from looking like a sin wave to looking like a square wave. This means that the speaker pushed up and holds that way (extremly bad) If you run the amp at 1/2 and the headunit at half it doent matter if you have a 1 watt amp running the biggest dam sub around. Andy |
you guys are saying the same thing....
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