Thanks hihoslva, Would drilling new holes into the door be a bad idea? Why hasn't this been recommended? Btw, are there any 6.5 midbass speakers?? Where can I find them?

Hey there Hihoslva! Glad to see you out and about!!
A few companies do in fact make component seperates in the off size of 5x7. I know for sure that Boston Acoustic and JL Audio makes them. Seems to me some others do also. While the 5.25 will fit with an adaptor, I have never found them to have much range. Always seemed to me like a three way set minus the largest driver! ;)
The 5x7 is marginally better sounding to me. There are however many less choices of component sets. :(
One evening I will try to do a search or two and see who else makes the elusive 5x7 in components!:D
You are right-If you can get a good fit the 6.5 is a far more common size that will allow a great range of products.

I work at Tweeter in Salem. However if you want a basic system my shop is good but if you want some crazy shit then head to the nashua store or the Braintree store. THe installers at both stores are top notch custome installers.

1st- how is line in NH these days, looked like you got a little snow...:p
How is tweeter to work for?
Just Curious..
Good to see ya!
dave

Drilling new holes simply for the purpose of installing 6.5s is not a good idea:

As a general rule, door speakers DO use the entire airspace within the door as a sort of "enclosure" - much like an "infinite baffle" or "free-air" setup. I know "free air" and "enclosure" seem like they shouldn't be used together, but I think you get what I mean.....

Anyway - to get the best sound from any speaker, you want to keep the sound from the rear of the speaker (rear "wave" - inside the door) and the front wave separated. If these two waves collide (and it's VERY easy for them to do so), you can have cancellations and your speakers may not sound as clear as they should. Second, you'd also like to keep the metal of the door from resonating as much as possible - the metal vibrations actually produce sound on their own, and this colors the speakers also - you'd like to have your speakers as "pure" and isolated as possible. This is why people spend thousands of dollars, weeks of labor, and add hundreds of pounds to their car in sound deadening material like Dynamat - to eliminate all sounds but the speakers themselves.

This may sound like audiophile bullshit, but it's actually very meaningful. A super-expensive system will sound like shit in a bad install, while a modest, budget-minded system can sound spectacular if installed well. I'm not saying you need Dynamat or something like it, but the little install details can make a big difference.

I feel I have setup a good adapter in my car for my 6.5 fronts. I used MDF adapter plates (I made them myself) like described earlier. Then, I used foam self-stick weatherstripping sandwiched between the adapter and the door metal to reduce unwanted resonances, and also some foam between the adapters and the speakers. This is VERY budget, but effective.

The idea is, if you're going to spend $1000 or so and some of your hard work to install a system, why skimp out on the details that: a) cost virtually nothing, and b) can really make a noticeable difference in your setup.

About the 6.5 midbass speakers - well, maybe. I'm not too much of a "product knowledge" guy - I basically learn from others and comment on what I've used myself. But - one idea would be to find a cheap set of component speakers - preferrably just the woofers. Then you could find a set of crossovers from a 3-way set, which will have outputs for a tweeter, mid, and woofer. Just hook up the woofers, and you have your midbass. I'm only assuming this would work, and it will require mixing and matching a bunch of stuff, which might not be your bag of tricks. Fact is, with a set of 6.5s up front, and that sweet Perfect thumping in back, you'll do very well. The Perfects have really great SQ, IMHO. I think you'll wind up happy, and the install would be simpler, too. Also, you wouldn't have to worry about a 4 channel amp if you only concentrate on the front stage - a 2 channel will be fine, and cheaper - leaving you more money to spend on the amp itself, and the speakers you will use with it.

I would always say that doing anything radical or powerful to the rear speakers in our cars is virtually worthless, and the money is better spent where it counts.

Sorry for the book......;)

And Dave - hello to you, too! Hope all is well.

~HH

Only about 9 inches, just another winter day in NH,
which is why I am getting the HELL OUT OF HERE!!!

Tweeter is a decent company to work for but to be honest I don't like alot of there policies. Like the installers get a budget based on the amount of install labor they do but if say the shop has busted up router bits, a dull saw and not alot of tools then you cant't possibly make the money you need to budget for the better stuff. It really sucks in some ways.

I am actualy a running joke there becuase I am now on the sales floor. Since they don't track my numbers at all I am self refered to as the Mobile Ficase. I basicly just hang around.

Sales can suck too. Which is why I am glad i am hourly. I don't honestly think Tweeter will be keeping mobile audio around to much longer. You just can't make money in it as a salesmen, atleast not like you can home audio.

Ok.. after a bunch of peer pressure (hehe), I've decided on 6.5" components in the front, and using the rears as midbass. Does anyone know if the rear doors can fit 6.75" speakers? I know they're 6.5 stock, but could 6.75" fit? If so, I'll get the Infinity Kappa 60.5's in the front, and Kicker 02RMB6 6.75" midbass speakers in the rear.

Anything can fit with a good imagination and a little tweaking ;).

Seriously though - 6.75s should fit just fine, but you may need to use adapter plates like the front. By bringing the face of the larger speaker out of the door by 3/4" or so, you effectively reduce the diameter of what IS inside the door. I don't think the 6.75s will directly bolt to the door, but you also never know. Wait for Sir Nuke to reply, or send him a PM - I think he may have installed an oversized set like that in his P5.

Whatever it is, be prepared to at least drill one or two holes in the metal for the screws. The stock speakers have an odd 3-screw pattern, and not too many aftermarket sets match up. But it's just a hole or two on each side, and is VERY simple.

Ahh, peer pressure. Wonderful stuff......;). You'll be glad you spent a few extra bucks on the front stage though - it's well worth it.

~HH

Thanks for the 411