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-   -   Moving battery to the trunk? (https://www.mazda3club.com/exterior-interior-audio-4/moving-battery-trunk-27936/)

protegeboy78 June-29th-2003 04:57 PM

Moving battery to the trunk?
 
I want to move the battery to the trunk for a number of reasons... i've heard of this beeing done before but i want to know if this is some thing that will give me a bunch of drawbacks and just be a headache.... if this is a decent idea i would love some tips on what i can do to make this an easier job and some things i need to make sure to do... any help would be great

MageMinds July-3rd-2003 12:30 PM

Sure everything can be done ... but I think you will loose a lot of your battery performance especially if you run a big sound system...

The added lenght of wire comming from your alternator will create latency in your alternator response so dimming your headlight a lot. This will add a lot of noise on your ground unless you run the ground battery back in the front where is was connected.

The positive comming from your alternator is very noisy and generate a lot of noise around it's wire, so if you run RCA near that wire you will get noise in your sound system.

If your reason to move the battery is to improve the quality and proximity of "juice" for your amp, buy yourself a capacitor it will do the job just well.

If you want to save place under the hood ... buy two 6 volt battery and connect them in serial optima 6volt are small so you can put one in one place (original place) and the other in an other place, say near the radiator or any other place.

If you still want to move it, use 0 guage wire for the positive and use 0 guage wire to run the ground back in the front and by the way ground it too in the trunk this will kill a lot of noise ...

If you still have a lot of noise, try putting a capacitor right after your alternator this will regulate the current flow and avoid a bit of noise. You can use cheap oil capacitor for that I think 500 micro farad can do the job, but I'm not sure. To connect it you have to "tap" the positive pole to the wire that come out of your battery and the negative pole to your car body ground and use the shortest wire possible. I have done that on my old Honda Civic and it solve half the problem of noise.

Hope this help

MageMinds

Note: This message is only my opinion, I'm in no way an expert in moving battery, I base my opinion on my limitted connaissance of car electronic and physic of material (the wire length).

protegeboy78 July-3rd-2003 06:17 PM

thanks for the info... i'm mostly moving it cause i have some intake ideas for my pro.... and a little just cause it would be interesting having it in the backend... but yeah mostly for space and the intake idea i have.... there is no freakin room in the engine bay... it sucks

protegeboy78 July-4th-2003 10:06 PM

what i want to do is bring my intake strait out and do a 90 degree turn towards the front grill and run my intake straight to the left side of the grill... the batter and distributor keep me from doing that... but if i remove the battery i can do what i want...

akaveli July-10th-2003 08:48 PM

I have a ? what is the name of thoughs batteries that have a red top. They are special kind of batterys that I see in peoples cars. Also what is so special about them? What advantages do they have over a regular battery or a Diehard Battery?

mazdaspeedwest July-11th-2003 01:13 AM

Optima

Red top used as a main battery

Yellow Top used as a backup battery for prolonged use with key OFF

they are designed around audio system requirements, as much as the cars requirements. Many, many, many audio competitors use them and have for many years. They have been field tested and proven as a very good quality battery.

So design and contruction are what make them better...

akaveli July-11th-2003 11:48 AM

oh ok. I'm getting ready to get a sound system put into my car and I plan on upgrading my battery, would the Redtop be a better investment or the yellow top?

akaveli July-11th-2003 09:21 PM

Thanks for the Info:bt:

turbonium959 July-23rd-2003 08:05 AM

I guess I have the same problem as is protegeboy78. I just finished my cold-air intake. I ran into the bumper and secured very nice to the frame, but my only concern with it is where my intake connects to the engine. I have a 90 degree rubber elbow that I got at Home Depot that connects the intake manifold with my cai. Last year (end fall-winter) when I tried this for the first time, the elbow held up good, but now that its been pretty hot, I see that it begins to deform, thus preventing a smooth flow of air. The reason I could not replace it with anything else, is because the damn battery is in the way. That is why I want to move it to the trunk. I am not planning on having a huge audio system, I only replaced stock speakers with 4- and 3-ways. I have read all of the posts, so thanks for the help.

protegeboy78 July-23rd-2003 10:50 AM

here are the links that bruce gave me for info on battery placement and some kits you can buy...

http://www.ws6.com/batt-relocate.htm

ok on the Jegs Website they have a battery relocation kit that can be purchased for pretty cheap approx. 50 bucks ... the part number is 555-10262 and the link is here:
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...64&prmenbr=361

here is the summit one:

http://store.summitracing.com/produc...earchtype=ecat

i will probably start this in a few weeks after i finally get my new bumper and have it put on...


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