Light socket Power?
 

I got my system all good to go. Im looking at putting a neon or strobe light in the rear to show it off. Is it possible to rig something up so that I can draw power from the light switch on the drivers side in the back there? I'd like to be able to throw that switch and power up the neon or what ever I buy.

I would think by adding diodes to isolate the 2 circuits by having that switch also flip a relay to turn on your neons, you'll get what you want.

Are you talking about the trunk light?

Thats what i thought he was talking about....

but thinking now, i think the switch is internal only, meaning it flips on that light and there's no output wire, as that light also comes on when the hatch is open, it's tied in with the pin switch. Sooooo, unless there is a way to solder a wire to the internal switch, my idea above will not work. This is probably possible, as it's most likely a mechanical switch.

Yeah its the light on the drivers side behind the rear seats. Hatch bay. The light doesn't come on automatically. I have to turn it on and off on my own.

Take a closer look. It comes off and on when you close and open the hatch. If you leave it on and then shut the hatch, it'll turn itself off. There's a pin built into the latch to control this. You could use that to trigger a relay that powers neons or strobes or something cool like that, and they'd only be on when the hatch is open.

Or just wire it to the trunk light and let the lights go on whenever your trunk is open. I did that with a blue strobe kit for my trunk to show off the system a littl ebetter,.

The thing is, I don't know how to wire it. Wouldn't the neon be too much voltage for the switch/wires.

i second that

Like I said, use a relay to power the aux. lighting, strobes, etc. and use that wire to trigger the relay.

Ok I'll look into it. Gotta hit Radio shack this week and see what they got/

the volatge will be fine and should be diode isolated for safety. Although if that light is strictly controlled by the pin switch or light switch, the diodes are not really necessary.

basically....(and i swear if written this before :))

1. cut wire at switch that is controled by the hatch pin switch, insert 2 diodes, cathode sides (grey stripe) get twisted together and connected to the pin switch side of the cut wire.

If not using diodes, then just tap onto the switched wire without cutting it.

2. one diode conects to the switch side of the wire and the other diode goes to your relay pin 85.

3. constant power 12v+ (fused with a 10 or 15amp fuse depending on the neon specs) goes to relay pins 86 and 87

4. output wire from relay pin 30 goes to the 12v+ on the neon and the neons ground goes to the chassis.

Jeez. How confusing. Diode anode cathode? Switches wires relays? I think I'll just let the professionals do this before I catch the car on fire. Thanks guys.

well, i never did mention anode, so you must have some knowledge of whats going on ;)