I'm putting a system together, need some advice....
 

Ok I have some stuff leftover from my old car wich I'm going to use on the pro. I have: JL XR525-CS components (for the front), JL 12" w0 sub and a 400w 4 chanel amp.
I'm getting a Phoenix Gold Tantrum 300.2 amp to run the JLs and Ill use the 4 chanel amp to run the sub and a set of speakers in the rear doors. I was thinkingabout getting a set of Infinity kappa 63.5i , what do you think?

Also, as far as the wiring goes, I wanted to use 4g power wire from the battery into a distribution block with two 8g outputs, is it enough? do I need a capacitor?

I'm also getting an Alpine 7995 HU. :dj:

you're gonna like the tantrum amps. retail, they require your soul on the dotted line, but if you can get them cheap, they are very good amps.

as for the infinity's, it depends on what you want from your system, and what you'll be running. if it's just sounds, rear fill is not necessary. multimedia? yeah, you might wanna have some back spkrs.

as for the wiring, yes, you should be fine (4g/8g, right?) and at this point, you do not need a cap. your 12w0 and tantrum amp shouldn't be pulling too much juice from your p5. but you could always get one anyways. :p

Well, it's not just the tantrum amp, I'm also runing a 100rms per chanel 4 chanel amp to power the sub and the rear speakers, I might replace it down the road with a better amp. The tantrum is just for the XRs.

BTW, I found a local audio shop that has it for 320$ (US), I think it's a pretty good deal considering my other option that is buying it online from a US Online shop, I might get it cheaper but if something doesn't work right it's going to be a pain in the ass to get it fixed since I don't live in the US.

And I want to get rear speakers because it feels more "complete" to me, and since I'm runing evolution XR components up front I want good quality rear speakers so that they wont mess up the sound.

well with that setup you probably won't need a capacitor. I have an alpine radio, audiobahn components all around, an audiobahn 4 channel w/ 120 watts per channel Rms. For the subs i have 4 audiobahn 12's and an audiobahn 1200 watt amp. I tried this setupp before getting my cap and it worked alright, but w/ the cap theres better peak sound and more volume. BTW your wiring should be fine

Thanx for the info Toad, one more thing, how many amperes is the P5 alternator? I think mine (1.6l) is 70.

i am not sure but check the owner's manual it has to say it there. THey probably have it in the FAQ's too but i dunno

The Pro5 has an 80 amp alt stock. Not bad at all! It'll juice your system just fine.

I would consider something other than the Kappas (or any other Infinity speaker) for the rear - but I DON'T hate Infinity's - I have good reasons!

They are great speakers - but Infinity is NOT know for good bass reproduction. Mids and highs are very good, but the bass/mid-bass is not too strong. Since you have a good front stage, you want the rear fill to add reinforcement to complement - not compete with - the front. Loud mids and highs from the rear will screw up your sound, IMO - you'd like more bass/midbass. Not to say you should try dedicated bass or midbass drivers, but possibly look into a speaker that has better bass properties. Bass travels better through the car - the Infinity's will probably add "mud" - the sound will compete with the front, and you won't hear them much due to the poor door placement in the P5. While something that adds a little more bass will complement the fronts nicely, and will add the warmth and "fullness" you're looking for.

I had Infinity reference 605cs components up front, and I swapped them (the woofers only) for Rockford Fosgate Fanatic Q's. I did this because I thought the Infinity's were damaged - NOT because I didn't like them! But - The RFs have MUCH more mid-bass (like say 80Hz to 300Hz) than the Infinity's - the midrange is almost as good, but not quite as defined. But I like the extra bass, and I'm satisfied with the Fanatics.

I'm not necessarily recommending RF's - only that you may want to consider speakers that have better bass qualities - as long as you are spending the ducats to change out the rears and amp them, might as well get something that will sound good while sitting in the driver's seat. Just my $1.02 (a post this long has gotta be more than just two cents ;))

Go audition!

~HH

JAC i hadnt noticed that you were from caracas. Im 16 and i left there 3 years ago. now i live in miami. Where in caracas do you live in?

-Toad, I currently live in El Cafetal, eres Venezolano?

-hihoslva: Thanks for the very informative reply, I apreciate it. Lemme check my car's manual to see how much amp the alternator has. Ill check out other speakers with better bass.

si yo vivia en santa fe

I think you should use a CAP. Your ALT is pushing 80 amps. Yeah thats fine for now, but it puts and unneeded load on the ALT wich makes it work harder and it will shorten the life by 50%. You should run atleast a .5 fard cap, but if you get the 1 fard cap you have room to expand. Just my 2 cents

Dude - this is not proper logic.

A cap only ADDS to the load on the alternator. Caps do NOTHING to save an alternator. It's like an extra "battery" that has to be charged - so now your alt has to run the system, and charge the cap at the same time. It's not a "magic power source". Caps (and extra batteries) are best suited for engine-off listening, and SPL competitors who need the extra stored juice for 1/4 second test-tone "burps" in competition. In daily driver vehicles playing actual music, they are useless. The only solution to an underpowered system is a bigger (or multiple) alternators.

Seriously - read up on how a cap works, and why it's useful (and why it's NOT useful in 95% of the installs that have them) before telling the guy he "needs" one to save his alternator!

~HH

Ok, I just checked, my alt is 70amp. I think it can take it.

The last two words being the most important "FOR COMPETITION" (where your SPL score is based on what amounts to the duration of a snare drum hit *BOOM* - that's it, cap's depleted, and now the alt has to recharge it).

Unless you compete, or only run your system in 1/4 second bursts, don't waste ANY money on a capacitor, deep cycle battery, or extra batteries. Your money is better spent (and much less of it) on upgrading the wiring connections of your stock alterator, making it able to work more efficiently. This simple upgrade usually solves 90% of power problems (dimming lights, etc.) in daily driver vehicles with powerful systems.

~HH

Rightnow I am running a 400/2 amp, one jl audio 12w3. I have upgrades wire and am running 4ga to my amps. Before I got mt cap, I was getting bad dimming of my lights. I went down and got a 1fard cap and problem solved. I Also have the yellow top Optima Batt. I am going to remove it saturday and re-install the stock Batt. to see how well it works. I hope you right. Because if it does work I will have a Batt for sale. I was not tring to give bad gouge, it comes from things I have learned in the stereo world.