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-   -   Back speakers (https://www.mazda3club.com/exterior-interior-audio-4/back-speakers-22881/)

speedy_sara March-24th-2003 02:23 PM

Back speakers
 
Okay, does any one know what size the back speakers are for a 94 pro sedan? So many people have told me so many different sizes. Right now, I have speakers that don't really fit, their only screwed in by two screws. Please help!!!

vimo19 March-26th-2003 03:55 PM

I had a 93' Protege, I think the are 5 1\4" But I put 6 1\2", they fit perfect.

beachnut March-26th-2003 04:23 PM

Mine has Pioneer 6.5" from the prev owner, they look like they fit perfectly, but they're crap. I would like to put 6x9s in, but it looks like I would have to do a lot of metal cutting - anybody else done this?

DeaDLy93PRoTeGe March-27th-2003 09:53 AM

93's are 6.5s. They are an odd shaped 6.5, but you can get alpines that fit perfect.

:firehair:

TheLastMarauder March-30th-2003 12:17 PM

Or you could do what I did, which is put in some Pioneer 6x8s and just mount them under the holes.... kinda ghetto but it sounds fine. Doesn't rattle like you'd think it would. In fact it doesn't rattle at all.

DeaDLy93PRoTeGe March-31st-2003 04:27 PM

Alpine 6.5's fit perfect, just let the people know where ever you buy them that you have a 93 Mazda Protege, and they are an odd-shaped 6.5. Also let them know that the alpines are supposed to fit perfect, save you from a headache, and assloads of money you don't absolutely need to spend.

Just A Thought.......

Maz94Protege March-31st-2003 07:13 PM

i have 5.25's in my rear deck board. they are kenwood 2ways. better off with 3ways, but oh well. and yes 6.5'' speakers are best alla round in the car. more bass, better sounding, i have the speakr grilles on my front speakers so they stick out. its hard to roll down the windows sometimes. it rubs but on the LX u cant put the grilles on, unless u have a 90lx.

But other than that. 6.5s are way to go!

demoninvictus March-31st-2003 11:26 PM

this was a long while ago when i destroyed my back dash and got rid of my rears, but after ripping out the old 5 1/4 speakers, i got some kenwood 5 1/4's with grills, didn't sound right and wasn't an ideal fit, but the carboard was enough to hold some screws in. then i got sick of them and threw some 6 1/2 pioneers in there. to fit 6 1/2's, the metal is cut wide enough to fit it, but the particle board dash plate is less than ideal, what i did was take a razor knife and kept cutting away at the particle board till the speaker sat in right, with the outter metal portion of my pioneers resting directly on the particle board. then marked out the holes where the scews would set in, drilled straight down into the metal panel of the dash and sunk sheet metal screws straight in. got sick of them, and with no modifications besides screw holes, sunk my pair of boston acoustic 2 ways in and blasted away. nothing rattles as i've sheet screwed the whole particle panel to the back dash and have the 3rd brake light weather stripped, but surface mounting speakers should work fine. i never have anything on my back dash, and even with this past harsh summer and our cold ass fuckin winter and all the sun beating down on the speakers, they handle just as they did when i first installed them, and even better than the one's wall mounted in tweeter's show room. you really shouldn't worry about a 'perfect' fit, cause mounting depth is virtually not an issue unless you were mounting serious subs in the back dash... but have yet to hear any person that does that. as far as mounting 6x9's in the rear dash, i can't begin to fathom the guage of the steel used, but i would imagine that even with the confined space of mounting and fitting tools to work on the back dash, picking up a brand new pair of craftsman or husky left, center, and right cut tin snips would work to get a fairly ROUGH opening cut out. after destroying those tools and cutting that steel, you can return the tools and get some new ones (as they do have a lifetime warranty) and save them for a rainy day sheet metal project :). my tin snips cut up to 16 guage tin, and even tougher 12 gauge steel casings on heaters. it's all matter of leverage more or less and the right tools... and i don't think metal snips would be ideal, but for the home mechanic, probably the only resort. either that or if you can find a dremel or roto-zip that can plunge cut steel, lol, i wouldn't know what to recommend. i'm not that ambitious to find out either, sorry.
peace

DeaDLy93PRoTeGe April-1st-2003 08:34 AM

You wouldn't have had to cut all that shit away if you would've installed them right :)


All you gotta do is take the back panel out, its not hard, just take out your 3rd brake light, simple as that.


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