Enlink's keyed bolt f**ked up, now what?
 

In the process of trying to install my new Spool springs, I stripped the inside of the endlink bolt (the hex-shaped key that keeps the bolt itself from spinning freely.) When I started, the bolt was pretty much rusted tight, but I got it to rotate with a long bar. The bolt is now loose enough to rotate, but I can't unscrew the nut because the center hex key is essentially now a circle and the nut is still rusted solid to the bolt.

http://said.uc.edu/students/morrisnr/endlink.jpg

Unable to come up with any other way to proceed, I put everything back together. And now I have an angry metallic clunk coming from the back end, which I can only assume is the endlink because it's now able to move a little.

Is there anything I can or should do, short of taking it to a qualified mechanic? And assuming that the loose endlink is causing the clunk, should it be safe to drive on for the next week until I have time to leave my car with someone?

Anyone else have this much trouble with the danged endlink?

Well, since the club went down shortly after I posted this, I figured I might as well bump it back up.

I bought a new endlink from a local dealer ($27.10) but haven't had time to put it on. I've been driving around on it, and it's been fine, just the clunk. Next week I should have help putting my springs in so I'll swap them out at that time.

I'd still welcome any comments or suggestions for making the other side go more easily. Thanks!

Sorry to hear about that, as I am very surprised to see a bolt freeze, when the car is not even 2 years old. I got a tip for you, that my boss told me at my shop. Before you put the bolt back in place, put some synthetic grease (black color grease) on it, to prevent the same situation from happening again. I also had trouble taking the bolts that hold my struts in place on my 97 DX, I just lowered with H&R, and I put grease all around to make sure that this won't happen ever again. Though, I guess new end link was not really expensive, but it is a lesson learned. My boss always says that whenever some one screws up at work, "You live and learn." Good luck putting everything back.

I say sray that mofo with WD-40 or Liquid-wrench or some kind of penetrating oil.

But to be on the safe side you might want to pick up another endlink just incase.

As for the one that wont come off. I say cut it off. Use a dremel or something but be careful not to damage the mounting bracket.

Unfortunately, I did this and it didn't help
I only found one endlink in stock at the 4 dealers within driving distance of me, but I have them order one for me...
Interesting idea

Sorry to hear that, I can't believe the nut is actually rusted so bad it won't spin off. I think most people have had to f**k with these end links ( mine came apart and I had to hammer the blue part back down into the end link) but I would have been screwed if the nut wouldn't have come off. Have you tried taking the other end off and just leaving the end link attached to the strut? That is what I had to do on my front. The top bolt wouldn't come loose, so I used the bottom one ( or vice versa) and then I just dealt with the end link hanging from the strut the whole time. Worked better than nothing. Good luck. I am going to take the spools out of the rear of my P5 this weekend and cut a top dead coil out and see if I can't get another inch drop. Hope I don't have to deal with end link probs, but I am sure I will:rolleyes:

Everyone has this problem, it is very common with our cars. I had to dremel off them and put on the new ones, that shit was so rusted shut. My only advise to people that haven't done it and plan to, start WD-40ing it a couple days before you do it, and it shouldn't be a problem. I installed mine with 24000 miles and it was still rusted beyond belief.

Nate,

If you're having trouble finding another endlink and you don't want AWR ones(I love mine, but they DO clunk a little), PM me and maybe I can hook you up with one of my old stock ones. :) (I'm pretty sure that the ES and P5 have the same endlinks.)

Yeah, I also heard the horror stories about rusty and frozen bolts before I got my AWR swaybar and endlinks, so I WD-40'd the shit out of everything about an hour before I started working. I had no problems!

for those of you taking off the endlink for the first time, try a
open wrench on the nut and a 32oz mallet. i didn't have to
use an allen key when i did mine.

I got the whole nut/bolt assembly to turn using a socket and breaker bar. It turns freely though, and that's a bad thing because the bolt turns and turns with the nut.

nate0123:

All of my endlinks did this. What I did, was loosen them up as much as I could using that little hex hole. Once it rounded out and became useless I took some vicegrips and gripped the flat disc that is on the other side of the endlink tab on the strut. Its not a washer, its a part of the endlink and will get you some good grip. I took the vise grips on that disc and a BIG ratchet on the nut and did my best. It worked good for me.

Unfortunately I ripped one the little rubber boots that protects the endlinks from dirt, but I fixed that problems by getting an AWR 21.5mm rear swaybar with adjustable endlinks. I made sure to grease that one up, cause I don't want to replace it.