Brake pad reccomendations please
 

I've got a very slight vibration during braking lately - especially at highway speeds. I'm swapping wheels soon, and want to take care of this while my wheels are off the car, and before it gets really cold outside.

Is it an okay idea to have the rotors cut? Should this eliminate the vibration?

I figure even if my pads are still good, with 35,000 miles, it can't hurt to change them before winter really sets in. Genuine Mazda brake pads are CRAZY EXPENSIVE (about $90 per PAIR last I checked). I'm looking for cheaper alternatives. Nothing fancy - just a good value and like-stock performance is fine. Reccomendations?

And is there anything to be careful of when removing my pads and calipers? I remember my Miata had an Allen-style screw to back the piston up - I didn't find that until about a hour of trying to use a C-clamp to push them back (dumbass). Any tips or warnings on doing a brake job on my P5?

In summary: 1) Vibration, 2) Pad recommendations, 3) Brake job tips.

Thanks for any and all advice.

~HH

Thanks, MAN. ;)

I'm not that interested in reusing the pads. I got plenty of miles out of them, so while I've got the calipers off and all, I figure I'll just change them - better now than later - preventative maintenance of-a-sort.

~HH

For a daily driver there are three pads you can try:

Hawk HPS. Tripoint Engineering quoted me $55 for the front. It's not available for the back yet.

KVR Performance carbon fibre pads. $70 available on their site (www.kvrperformance.com). Also front only.

EBC Green. Although I had bad experience with them. Had a set on my 94 Altima and they glazed after 5000km.

Edit: let me chip in about the rotor.

IMO it's not worth to turn the rotors. The stock rotor on the Ps are thin. While you're braking the rotor has to convert your car's kinetic engery into heat. With a thicker rotor (hence more material) they can absorb more heat before they expand. After you've turned them they'll be thinner, less material for heat absorbtion and more prone to warp again. If you have to pay to get them machined I think you're better off with new ones.

Well - those pads aren't TOO expensive - but I really would like to do a four-wheel job and get it over with. Thanks for the info tho. Are these really the ONLY aftermarket pads for the Pro? Doesn't at least Raybestos make something? Hmmm....the hunt continues.

And about the rotors - I'm pretty sure poor torquing of the lugs and/or a few curb taps is what warped them - not really the heat - I'm fairly easy on my car, and try to avoid unnecessarily heating the brakes. It's definitely only one or both fronts - no problems with the rear (I stopped my car using only the E-brake earlier today, just to see if I get any shimmy - nadda) - so I'll only need the fronts (or maybe just one) turned.

Rotors are meant to be cut - they have a certain amount of meat on them so they can be resurfaced - many cars two or more times. I will do it once, and that's it - new rotors will be the next time (maybe even a set of Brembo cross-drilled for looks, I love 'em!) The vibration is VERY slight - so any warpage is also very slight - I won't have to have much taken off of them at all. I'm not worried at all about losing rigidity from turning them. And it'll only cost me $10-$15 each to spin 'em, as opposed to $60+++(each) for new ones. Worth the cut to me.

Thanks for the heads-up though - I know they're thin, but they have to have at least one cut in them, and mine will be a thin slice.

~HH

i have always had good luck with NAPA brake parts. they may not be "performance" but they last a long time and stop well for everyday driving. also i'd get the rotors turned. you are only taking about taking a small amount of metal off of them, it's not like you are cutting them in half.

Have you thought about Midas? I remember they have some special deal where you pay a one time fee and they'll replace the pads for as long as you own the car. Not sure about the details but I remember seeing their promos some time ago.

Edit: I always forgot to comment about your rotors.

The reason I said that is because I measured the rotor thickness with a measuring caliper while I did my snow tire swap. What I find is the front rotors are thinner compare to other cars I've owned with more mileage. Just looking at the measurements I wonder how much room we have for machining before they become too thin. I'm sure the minimum thickness is stamped on the rotor somewhere...just ask the guy how much room you have when you get them machined.

Thanks for the ideas guys. I considered Midas - but I'd really like to do the brake job myself (other than the rotor cut). I will still look into buying the pads from them, as well as Napa.

And I will of course check the thickness ratings of the rotors, too.

Muchas Gracias!

~HH

BTW what torque is used for tightening lug nuts?
Pampusik

I think the spec is 69-85 ft-lb. I torque mine to 80 ft-lb.

For the 1st gen pro, the rotor thickness is carved onto the brake caliper itself. The JDM 1st gen rotor thickness is 22mm. Some enthusiast here swap the rotors for Eclipse rotors as they are thicker with same diameter. Double check on that, I may be wrong.
I've had all the problems you guys encounterd. So I mod in RX-7 FC model 4 piston calipers and custom slotted Honda Oddessy rotors. Pad wise am using SM. All these coupled with SS brake lines, the stopping power and feel increased tremendously! After the SM pads are used up, I'm switching to EBC Green stuff. Got a friend selling it. Check out my ride in page 6.

i have at extremely good experience with carquest gold pads there pretty touchy and they hardly wear. now the rotor deals i used to work at napa auto parts and still get my discount there because i am cool with everyone there if any1 need new rotors i can get them for about 15 a piece maybe less. since the discoutn i get is napa cost plus 10%