Synthetic Oil!!! WOW what a differance
 

I just started to use AMSOIL and man I found better HP. and about 5mpg on the gas. best of all I don't have to change if for 25k or one year. thats with one "filter" change in 6 months. here is a link you all need to try it!!:blue: http://www.jaspersynthetics.com

more HP?! You serious?

gotta raise it!!!:bsflag: .....25,000 miles on oil??? are you smoking crack??? more hp on oil :rolleyes: ..possibly more mpg..thats about it!

How many HP did you find?

Notice a similarity between this person's screen name and the website??? :spam: :eek:

I noticed the similiarity myself....but, I have read about Amsoil in the past with other cars and it, like a few others, is a pure synthetic. Yes, they say you can go 25K between oil changes. And yes, running synthetic fluids can net you a few HP. I would say that if you changed out all major fluids (Oil, Trans Oil, Transaxle Oil, etc.) with synthetic oils (Mobil1, Amsoil, Redline, Royal Purple) you might pick up about 5HP.
a. Everything will run smoother
b. Smoother means more power
c. Smoother means longevity

I know this sounds like an ad, but this post is about synthetic oils in general, not amsoil alone. I, for one, am going to be changing all my fluids in the very near future to sythetic. I would not go 25 between engine oil changes though, maybe 10K-15K max. I knew someone with a older toyota corolla that ran Mobil1 since first oil change and changed oil every 10K. Had over 250K on that car and never burned oil.

I would urge some caution with synthetic trans oil. I put Redline in my 97 Prelude 5-spd and it did quite well for about 15K miles, then began to develop a 2nd gear grind. Switching back to Honda MTF alieviated it mostly, but by 90K miles it was beginning to return. Personally I won't use synthetic in the trans of my daily driver.

Paul

Personally, I don't think synthetic oil makes a difference in the economy orientated and low compressions engines of ours.

okay, most here are uneducated about oil in general so im gonna expect quite a few arguments here but oh well....

The biggest advantage to a syn oil (a REAL syn oil like a group IV/V oil or a solid group V oil) is the extended drain intervals. However, just the oil being a syn alone is good enough to get it to do the long drain interval. The additive package is perhaps the most important part of a motor oil and in order to do a long drain one must watch for the additive level to drop. This can be done my doing an UOA and looking at the TBM of the used oil.

Now, for those of you running a syn oil like Mobil1 and change it after 3Kmiles-DONT!! Youre wasting good oil and using up a good supply!! Quit buying into the industry marketing and follow a drain interval according to a UOA (used oil analysis). unless your engine is an anomaly (i doubt it) or you let your car idle allot, then Mobil 1 can go at least 5K miles easy. use a good filter like a pure one.

Now for thoswe of you that refuse to run syn oils and like your regular dino oil then, fine. But please run oils that are at least a group II or group II+ oil. Some of these oils are: Pennzoil's Purebase oil brands ; Quaker State oils; Chevron's Isosyn oils; and even Texaco oil as its now really Chevron IsoSyn oil). All of these oils are group II or II+ and some contain group III (the oil in Castrol's Syntec brands except the new German made 0w-30. its Ester/PAO) oils and great additive packages. Mobil Drive Clean brand most of us still arent sure what theyr are using.

The only syn oil that is not a "true" synthetic oil that I would use, and have, is, Shell Rotella T syn. Its an oil that uses Shell's Slack Wax basestock. The Slack Wax basestock has equal properties to that of a PAO but a way cheaper cost. The end product is made in a way similar to the synthesis of PAO excpet instead of ethylene gas (where PAO comes from), SLack Wax is used and the oil from it, although not a PAO, is still just as good. This oil is not a group III oil or a group IV oil technically. Some may classify it as a group III or IV however, but not usually. This oil is sold at Wal-Marts but the idiot buyer at Wally World is discontinuing it.

Whew! Im tired now and gotta go to bed!

I have to agree with the use of Amsoil. I am now running the series 2000 0W-30, with synthetic power steering fluid (magnet inside reservoir as well), and Amsoil Synthetic GL4 for the tranny. I have to agree, the difference is there. I keep very good track of my mileage. I just took a recent trip to California (1200mi round trip), and checked my tires and changed all of the fluids to synthetic beforehand. I have taken this trip many times, and I average 32 to 33mpg. This time, I averaged a 4 mpg gain over the whole trip, up to 36.5 mpg. With gas prices the way they are, that justifies the premium cost of synthetics to me.

it's a trade off financially though, remember, you figure, $75 to $100 bucks for an oil change with filter every 25k, or $15 to $30 bucks every 3000 miles, you start to see the worth at that. i'm thinking of going synthetic on my car, despite what many might suggest, i'm just wondering what's needed to switch everything over to synthetic oil... do you need to flush out the engine, or what?
peace

No matter what you use in your engine, there will still be dirt entering via the air filter element... so you can keep your oil in longer, but it dosent mean it is staying cleaner longer.... 25 is waaaaaaaayyyyyyy too long for an oil change. Synthetic is just a better grade oil for breaking down.... dont think you can leave it in your car longer.

How about longlife oils which are used in VWs. Oil change interval is 50,000km. 25k isn't waaayyy too much if that oil is good.

Hmmm, I have an "older" Toyota, 200K miles and it doesn't burn oil, either. BUT, I've never used synthetic in it (I do in the Pro, though). In the Corolla, it's been nothing but 20-50 Castrol since first change. I attribute the lack of oil consumption to sensible start-up habits, not the oil, per se.

I guess that it would be reasonable if that were the case. The catch is that if you have a warantee problem with your engine. When they ask when you changed the oil last (and they can ask for proof of changes and maintenance) and you say "hmmm... 16,000 miles ago" I am sure that they are just going to tell you to get going and not do work under warantee on the motor.

Sorry, save some bucks after the car is out of warantee.... until then it gets changes every 5,000 at the least (and also likely after I am past the warantee period on my car).

WOW! You actually pay someone to do your oil changes? I do a full synthetic change every 5k for under $25 with filter.

If I were using regular oil, I could do it under $10.

Try doing it yourself, you'll save a ton of money. It really isn't that difficult.

And I thought I was lazy......

European ACEA A5 and B5-02 are standards much like our API and ILSAC classifications. Almost all synthetics and some dino oils in the US meet that specification. It is Europe's specification for what we would consider extended drain intervals. The spec calls for 10,000+ mile service life. So if some oils meet the standard like Mobil1, why are they still trying to push the 5K oil change? Answer - Money makes the world go round. If they can pull more money out of your pocket, they will.
Dirt entering the engine is not the reason you would need to change your oil before 25K. Even most dino oils could support that. The real reason is gasoline entering the crankcase via blow-by, coolant entering from small leaks, and water from condensation and blow-by as a combustion by-product. These combine in the crankcase to dilute the oil, and create acids that break down the additive package. Oxidation of smaller oil molecules also creates problems as well.
Oil should be change when it needs it. Some advanced vehicles have oil change sensors in them, some so advanced they actually sample the oil for temperature and chemical content, apply the results to a logarithm establish by the manufacturer, and tell you when it nees to be changed.

I've been using Amsoil 5-30 full synthetic and after 4K miles it needs a change, engine becomes noisier and less smooth even my auto tranny shifts less smooth! Along with a PureOne oil filter, I will switch bo a bigger V6 filter maybe it will be good enough for 5K.

Don't belive in 25K miles, our cars take only 3.25 quart @ $5.40 per quart with a $5 oil filter that's very cheap!!!

I using Mobil 1 ATF in my tranny and Waterwetter as a coolant.
Mobil1 ATF in power steering and Valvoilne Synthetic DOT3/4 braking fluid.

So far 33K of trouble free miles on my 2002 P5

Mobil 1 used to be advertised as the 'once-a-year-oil-change'. They would say in advertising that you change once, then replace the filter and add a quart every 3K miles. I agree w/ those here who suggest longer intervals. Oil companies and dealerships will try to convince you to change every 3K miles. Mazda says you only need to change every 5K miles under severe conditions.

I live in FL (high humidity/high heat) so I follow that schedule with dino oil.

3K mile oil changes were a good idea back in 1962, but w/ modern engines/manufacturing tolerances/oil additive packages they are a waste IMO.

Paul

You are still getting sand/debris in your engine... the oil itself may last longer, but there is still particles getting into your engine that wear away at the internals... the longer you keep that ouil inthere, the more sand accumulates and becomes hard on your engine. Maybe if they have better internal engine parts, then they can withstand more than other engines. Yes, i agree that changing every 3K is too much, but no way should ANYONE be changing past 10K miles. I wouldnt recommend it.

Oh my Lord youre kidding right? What do you think the oil filter is for? And remember what I said about having a UOA done? It tells you how much silicon is in your oil and that tells you whether you have a leak or not. ANd BTW, the amount of dirt (silicon) that gets past your air filter (a stock element) is neglible unless of course you have a K&N. DOnt believe me? The UOA's speak for themselves.

i still use dino oil every 5k miles. When i drain it i let it filter through a fine filter (looks alot like filter paper but bigger pores) and if it is loaded with garbage i shorten the next interval and change out the air filter cuz there is sooo much dust here. My next carwill prolly get the synthetic treatment though.

By the way, there's actually a lot of HP in oil. If you drain the oil out of your engine, your car will lay down more horsepower on a dyno. Your Crank Shaft spins around and keeps smacking into the oil (thus splashing it all over your engine - which is necessary), but every time the crank hits the oil you're losing power. If you use a lighter weight oil, there's less resistance on the crank and you will get more power. Advanced sports cars (and those who install conversions) have systems don't have a traditional oil pan and instead spray oil on to the crank to reduce oil drag.

I thought I would pip in here and let you know something I researched about Amsoil.

My sponsor has been using Amsoil for years now in his truck. Back of the bottle says 35,000 mile oil changes can be done, you just have to change the oil filter every 3000 miles or so. He left his Amsoil in for 40,000 miles and then took about 1 ounce out to get it tested by http://www.titanracinglab.com/ The results came back that his oil was still good for use.

I started using Amsoil in my Civic and notice better mpg, acceleration and smoother idle. And most companies will tell you to change your oil at 3000-5000 miles because heck they're making more money. Even Mobil 1 Trisynethic you don't have to change every 3000-5000 miles. Talking to many racers some say wait til 7000-10000 miles - just making sure you change the oil filter.

I pay thirty bucks a change to have a Mazda OEM filter installed and 3.75 or whatever quarts of Mobil1 added, they even wash the car while it is there. I do this every 3750 miles for one reason, that is the same interval as the tire rotations (and my tires look brand new even with 20k on them). It is a little more money, but an oil change is good for your car no matter what interval you do them and it is convenient to have it done when the vehicle needs to be serviced anyway. Besides the fact that I usually run relatively high RPM's most of the time (can't find the off-button for my right foot yet). I generally shift around 4k (gas mileage is shit by the way) and I like the added degree of protection a synthetic provides against me wearing out the motor. I also run a synthetic transmission fluid, but only because Mazda told the dealer to put it in when I was having synchro issues in second gear. I felt better power from both, and the engine definitely runs smoother.

Relax, I am not disagreeing with your previous essay. But you do realize there are limits to both filters. And if you think that it is negligible, then leave your oil in your car for as many miles as you want. If you feel 25K or 50K intervals are good, then do it. But apparently you are saying that there should be no difference in changing your engine oil whether you drive on gravel roads everyday or just city streets. Its up to you. I'm done with this thread.
Thanks.

Heat as a variable
 

What about living in an extremely hot climate? PHX AZ here. I just had synthetic put in my car. Most mechanics here say that cuz of the extreme heat, plus all the dust we get here, its wise to change oil frequently. Anyone know if that is still a worry with synthetic?

Couldn't help chuckling at this. When I had my Prelude (97) I would normally shift around 6K ( tho I'd go up to 7100 when racing)...

Paul

the amount of crap that gets into your engine and stays in there is dependent on the airfilter and oilfilter. Synthetic should be fine in extreme climates b/c that is what it is designed for.

I find that if I lay off and let it rev only to 3-3.5k I get much much better gas mileage. But right foot will not comply, unless I look at the gas gauge and it is almost empty.

But with a Prelude you also have to rev the hell out of it to get any power, the Pro has pretty useable power after about 3,500.

Not really - the 2.2 VTEC has good, linear torque all the way thru the power band - the fun just really starts at 5700.

Paul

I guess, but with the butt dyno it feels very weak before the VTEC kicks in. But I imagine since it is much more powerful to begin with it is probably able to keep enough torque available in the lower RPM's to be comparable to the 2.0L in the Pro.

here's my situation...this whole syn stuff sounds cool to me b/c i drive 'bout 3k a month and i would love to same some $$ on oil changes and save my motor (in a ways)...the mazda dealership told me i should get an oil change every 5k...whats the deal? holla!!
what would you have to do to change your fluids to syn? flush everything out??

:angel:

Synthetic oils are just drop in, you don't have to do anything special.

alrighty then...
thx for the heads up.

:angel:

Just out of curiosity, have you ever driven a Prelude VTEC? I had one for about 2 years, and I can tell you that that engine was much torqueier than teh 2.0 in the Pro. I promise you it would kill a Pro accelerating from 45 mph in 5th gear.

I'm not meaning this as a dis to the Pro, it's a fine car, but the 2.2 in the 'lude had plenty of torque - it is/was pretty much unique among Honda 4-cyls that way, as it had FAR more than the 1.6 or 1.8 VTEC motors.

Paul

I'll have to agree with that. The 2.2L VTEC is one of the few Hondas that will slam you back in your seat, whereas all the other Hondas have high redlines and loved to be revved.