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-   3rd Gen Protege/MazdaSpeed/P5/MP3 (https://www.mazda3club.com/3rd-gen-protege-mazdaspeed-p5-mp3-26/)
-   -   Possible Fix for Engine Light and Rough Idle (https://www.mazda3club.com/3rd-gen-protege-mazdaspeed-p5-mp3-26/possible-fix-engine-light-rough-idle-36725/)

Britanicus October-1st-2004 05:20 PM

Possible Fix for Engine Light and Rough Idle
 
Hello,

I came across this site last night as I was searching for info about my Engine Light Rough Idle problem.

I found that the information was varied and I felt that after having had the problem fixed very cheaply today I felt that I should share my insights.

If you start out with a rough idle that seems to go away when warm then after a while seems not to go away thend then your check engine light comes one it is very probably the EGR valve.

Don't be scared. As some of you may know and what I found out today there is a world wide shortage of these valves and that by itself indicates something.

I spoke to my personal mechanic and I spoke to Mazda. I was told that you can remove the egr valve and clean it with carb cleaner. It would seem that this may likely solve your problem. The Mazda service guy told me that it could last for 50 KM or it could last for 50000 KM. They quoted a new EGR valve at about 200 bucks and 1 hour to Re and Re.



I went back to my Mechanic and informed him of this and he agreed to take the egr off the car and clean it out ensuring that the plunger moves freely. He did this for 60 dollars Canadian or about 45 cents USD (hehe).

I immediately noticed all kinds of extra kick in the car. I didn't notice the lack of power before because the egr grows dirty and sticks open slowly robbing your car of power very slowly over time.

So my suggestion is that if you experience similar symptoms then you should get your egr cleaned before you pay to get the codes read.
Like others have said in here, reset the ECU by disconnecting the negative terminal while the engine is shut off and then press on the brakes for about a minute, reconnect the terminal and see if that helps. I was told by Mazdz that 80 to 90 percent of idle problems are due to this.

I hope this helps.

Chris

2002 P5, 2 inch lower and RActive CAI :bt:

kargoboy October-1st-2004 06:44 PM

Yup, the Proteges have a history of EGR valve problems.

supa saiyan pr5 October-1st-2004 07:10 PM

O.k weird question where is the EGR valve located......I have had all kind of mix info...My car is currently idling up and then down and then up again.....


Jeremy

kargoboy October-2nd-2004 10:00 AM


Originally Posted by supa saiyan pr5
O.k weird question where is the EGR valve located......I have had all kind of mix info...My car is currently idling up and then down and then up again.....


Jeremy

If your car is completely stock, I can tell you that the idling up & down is normal when:

Your a/c compressor is running. Note that the compressor is on when you have any combination or floor/defroster setting on. It will idle at about 750-800 rpm, then dip to @500 and back up again.

supa saiyan pr5 October-2nd-2004 08:57 PM

Thats not whats happening on my car...I have erratic idle...I cnat even get the car to run without it happening...


Jeremy

chuck October-3rd-2004 03:55 PM

Has anyone cleaned EGR by themselves?
 
Has anyone cleaned EGR by themselves?

Use CARB cleaner?

Do you have to clean tube also?

Do you have to replace gasket?


I am 100% sure I can do it myself but would like to know if gasket has to be replaced?

supa saiyan pr5 October-3rd-2004 04:09 PM

I would like to know where it's located and what does it look like...I see something that looks like a blow off valve...well plastic one...that has 4 screws is this it???????????



Jeremy

CDNeh October-3rd-2004 10:00 PM


Originally Posted by chuck
Has anyone cleaned EGR by themselves?

Use CARB cleaner?

Do you have to clean tube also?

Do you have to replace gasket?


I am 100% sure I can do it myself but would like to know if gasket has to be replaced?

I was there when the Mazda Tech did it to my car... All he did was take it off.. clean it to get everything moving free used Brake fluid to free up the spring and spray to get the oil off... then used all the same parts and screwed it back it.. took him 1 min to take out, 10 to free up the spring and 2 min to put back in.. and i was rolling

CDNeh October-3rd-2004 10:03 PM


Originally Posted by supa saiyan pr5
I would like to know where it's located and what does it look like...I see something that looks like a blow off valve...well plastic one...that has 4 screws is this it???????????



Jeremy

At the Back of the engine, off centre to the right. DOWN.. like 2 bolts to take it off, then unscrew the plastic part.. there is 4 screws.. Make sure to lube it up or you could break the screw.. Whoohoo!! not fun to fix(been there dont that). Lube up the cylinder till it moves freely back out. De-grease.. reinstall.

Good luck!

I can try to take some pics if needed..

Britanicus October-4th-2004 08:08 AM

I think that if you are carefull you should be able to reuse the gasket. They are about 7 bucks Canadian so if you are going to do this maybe have a gasket ready just incase and if you don't require it then you can keep it for the next time (there will likely be a next time) or take it back. At least that way you don't have to walk to get one if you have the egr off and find you need one.

DumpsterDiver October-4th-2004 01:55 PM

My EGR valve was just replaced...All covered under warranty! They even washed my car and vacuumed the interior!!

chuck October-4th-2004 03:46 PM

Even if I needed EGR valve, it is not covered by my warranty
 
Even if I needed EGR valve, it is not covered by my warranty.

And I was thinking about taking it off and checking it because I have 49000 km / 3 years and 5 months of city driving.

The key is CITY DRIVING which is the worst for EGR.

http://members.rogers.com/cetheringt...missions-1.jpg

http://members.rogers.com/cetheringt...missions-2.jpg

mazdaseniortech October-4th-2004 08:46 PM

you are all saying egr valve but dont forget about the intake gaskets on all the 2.0l engines are blowing at about 45k miles and suck air in at the top of the intake to head area at #2 and #3 cyndr.it will run lean and idle bad but run ok and good off idle.to cheak spray gumcutter or silicone in a can with the straw on it to the area.if it idles up its junk.only 13 bucks for the gasket at mazda but a pain in the ass to change.iv done about 30 of them way more than egr valves

linodavid October-4th-2004 08:58 PM

pics, pls
 

Originally Posted by CDNeh
At the Back of the engine, off centre to the right. DOWN.. like 2 bolts to take it off, then unscrew the plastic part.. there is 4 screws.. Make sure to lube it up or you could break the screw.. Whoohoo!! not fun to fix(been there dont that). Lube up the cylinder till it moves freely back out. De-grease.. reinstall.

Good luck!

I can try to take some pics if needed..


It would help me a great deal if you do take those pics. Thanks a lot in advance.

Da P-Funk! October-5th-2004 06:37 AM

Hey Mazdaseniortech! I want to swap my intake manifold-to-head gasket!

*How do i remove the three (specifically the the two outboard) bolts? I can't even see them! What are you removing for access or special tool combo works?

*How are getting the exhaust pipe off the intake manifold? Open end wrench? Crowsfoot? It seems pretty tight on there!

Thank you so much! If the mazda repair manual goes in to sufficient detail - let me know and i will get one. Usually they say "remove intake manifild bolts'... thanks. what a help.


And... how do i rig the throttle? I need to make it longer (outlaw engineering spacers...)


Thank you!Thank you!Thank you!Thank you!Thank you!


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