Ouch dude, you got 2.3-2.4 60's with your RWD cars? Get back to the track!! :)

That's the problem with running 17" wheel/tires on street pressures.

NO HOOK UP! :rolleyes:

Needed a nice set of drag radials. :D

Don't be discouraged. A lightened flywheel is not the best mod for 1/4 mile racing, but you should be fine in other types of racing!

Not exactly right. A lighter flywheel will INCREASE torque because the rotational mass of the drivetrain will decrease, making it easier for the engine to turn. A lighter flywheel will increase torque and hp at the wheels at all rpm.

Unfortunately, this will also decrease inertia and make the car harder to launch. This is a little different than actually decreasing torque output. Here's what happens: when you launch the car, the engine's torque isn't the main thing that gets the car moving; what moves the car is the inertia of the spinning drivetrain. When you let the clutch out, the inertia is transferred to the whole car. Decrease the inertia, and it becomes harder to get the car moving. The car will require more rpm at launch to get the wheels spinning and keep the engine from bogging. Decrease rotational weight enough, and you'll have to start slipping the clutch when you launch to keep the engine rpm's up. This is why you often see 800+ hp Indy and F1 cars stall coming out of the pits... they have plenty of power, but very little rotational inertia.

This is probably why walight01's 60' times suck. :( Lightweight flywheels sometimes hurt a car in the 1/4 mile for this reason... particularly on a car with low torque and a flywheel that isn't that heavy to begin with, like a Protege.

Yes, I was only stating the difference between the FS-DE and ZE cams...And I thought it was only duration, meaning there is not much of a difference between the stock and ZE cams...

And the recommendation for ECU's is?

thanks :)

get something fully adjustable, not with preset values. Haltech E6K works with our cars and im pretty sure Tec2 and Tec3 also work.

Anyone know if Haltech has a knock timing retard feature that can pull back timing like the way the J&S does? I know TEC2 and 3 has it.

Nope, no knock control. A properly tuned ECU will not need it. It has been discussed numerous times on other boards. I generally tune within 4-6 degrees of knock and have no problems. You can always use a trim knob as a "retard" knob.

How hard is an engine mgmt system like the Haltech to use? I'm relatively new to the entire tuning scene and get apprehensive when dealing with items that could substantially improve/degrade the performance of my car. Would a relative layman with some study of associated materials be able to do a decent job of tuning the ECU?

I know it's a vague question but hopefully some of you more experienced people can offer some words of encouragement or advice.

thanks

Dave

Ya somethings definently wrong
I got a 2001 1.6L, ya ya the crappy little engine.... And i still ran a 17.8 @77 with some heavy 17's on there. I think theyre something like 49lbs each. When i ran last yr i had no engine mods. Hopefully i can hit the track this weekend with my intake/exhaust and see if they perform any better. I really dont feel any power difference, but my mind is just tricked into thinking its faster because its so god damn loud.
GL with the car though, somethings up...

49 pounds each rim? ..jesus

I had a friend with an Eclipse GS...He bought a used set of ghetto chromies for a couple hundred bucks...

Size: 17" diameter/ 7" wide...
Weight w/o tires: 82lbs each...

Holy shit! :eek:

Indeed...