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open mouth....insert foot
i just realize he has a 1.6........sorry for the bad info |
Even on the 2.0L you need to shorten the tube for the bypass valve to fit. Once the bypass valve is in line, the total intake length will increase a couple of inches and this will prevent the intake from fitting down in the hole in front of the fender.
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Originally posted by tonkabui after reading through almost all the threads regarding the injen's placement in the little hole there, unless you drive through water that will completely submerge the intake, nothing will happen. also, on top of that, you will have to be on your throttle in order for there to be enough suction created to get the water up to the throttle body. when i get my intake put in, i will know exactly how deep the water can be before i am in trouble. even in tucson, where the roads are ridiculous after a rainstorm, i have rarely seen water go past the middle of my wheels, so unless the whole intake filter is lower than that, nothing will happen, i don't think. but don't take my word for it. i'm planning on getting a bypass valve for the summer. either that or i can gerry rig the cold air into a short ram just for the summer. who knows. i haven't decided yet since it's not even spring yet and i have no money left. hee hee. |
SO how much HP will I gain?? about 10 or so?
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thanks for the clarification installshield.
scarmiglio, wouldn't you, or couldn't you, just replace one of those red connecting rubber pieces with the bypass? i think sir nuke said you can do this, but i'm not sure. i know i'll be putting the bypass in for summer time cause it gets crazy here with the monsoons. thanks a lot. |
joe- are you asking about whp or flywheel hp? the whp on the 2.0 is roughly 4.5, i think the flywheel might show like 7-8, but the wheel is the important number.
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and the 4whp of power you get will be a mid-range "bump", the rest of the power will be close to stock
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I gained 5 hp and 6.2 lb-ft at the wheels. Power remained stock from idle to 2,500 rpm. From 2,500 rpm through redline, hp and torque were up with the biggest gains from 3,000-4,500 rpm and 5,500 rpm to the rev limiter. This was for the 1.8L. The 1.6L and 2.0L will react differently depending on their power curves.
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Originally posted by tonkabui thanks for the clarification installshield. scarmiglio, wouldn't you, or couldn't you, just replace one of those red connecting rubber pieces with the bypass? i think sir nuke said you can do this, but i'm not sure. i know i'll be putting the bypass in for summer time cause it gets crazy here with the monsoons. thanks a lot. You mean right next to the MAF? Just from looking I suppose it might be possible, but I think it's going to be a tight fit. The bypass valve is an inch or two longer than the injen clamp. Have you tried it? |
nope, haven't tried it. that's why i'm asking. i have no clue. i am going to have to get one of those things cause i think it's too much of a hassle to make it into a short ram. has ANYONE put a bypass valve on their CAI? and where does it go? i thought i knew, but now i have no clue.
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dude tonka i'll try it out tonight if i have a couple minutes. it *should* fit just fine, since the piece at the throttle body is rubber it will bend a bit and allow for a couple more inches. id almost be willing to be it would fit WITH the other piece in, but probably not. like i said, if i get a minute tonight i'll try it, but dont count on it being done, i have plans with my fiance, and she gets mad if i play with my car when i should be playing with her.....:rolleyes:
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Well Thanks guys I think in the next mouth I will buy this Igen intake:D and when my car hits 40,000 miles I am going toa dd spark plugs and wires...and headers and exhaust will be after that...then I should go Zoom Zoom haha:cool:
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joe: sounds like youve got it under control!
tonka: i didnt have time last night to try it....but i did this morning. i woke up a little early and was able to go play around before i left for work. heres what i did: i removed the second rubber hose (closer to the filter) and tried to put it on there, but i couldnt get the angles right without taking stuff apart, so then i took the MAF out and put the bypass in, and was eventually able to get the MAF back in. but it was a pain in the ass, but definetly possible. it took me about 10 minutes like i thought. biggest problem, it was roughly 15 degrees out, with a winds at 20mph, giving a wind chill of 0!! and of course my car is parked OUTSIDE! it seriously has taken 2 hrs for my hands to be functional again. moral of the story, always work in the garage, or in the summer (if you happen to live in ohio), but it fits, it IS possible to do it without cutting, it IS a pain in the ass, but still less than fucking with the filter. |
Damn Dude thats COLD:eek: It hasent been that Cold in Utah yet...well the part I live in other parts get to be like -10 In the mornings...I guess its true what they say about Ohio, cold and rainy all the time
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mp3wannabe,
thanks dude! so you just removed the rubber thing between the MAF and the pipe that goes to the filter, right? how's the performance as compared to no bypass? and also, if you can be the biggest pal in the world, can you at all drive through a very very large puddle to see if this bypass thing works? just kidding. thanks again wannabe. i'll be getting the valve closer to summer. i measured the distance between the filter and the ground. from the bottom of the filter to the ground is about 6 inches. from the top of the filter to the ground is almost 10.5 inches. there are definitely flash flood spots that get about 12" deep, so yeah... unless i want to not go home for a day, gotta get the valve. |
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