Head Bolts -- Need Help
 

Can anyone suggest a method of removal of a head bolt with a rounded head. Murphy's Law once again had its way with me tonite. Wouldn't you know that when I got to the last bolt of the head, the socket snaps and with it went all six corners of the bolt. The bolt hasn't even broken loose yet. I've gone so far as to try one of those Gator Grip sockets (POS). If worst comes to worst, I guess I'll break out the dremmel tool and cut the head off...which means metal shavings everywhere. Can anyone suggest a method to remove this thing?

I've done this in the past in desperate situations...

If the bolt is metric then the closest SAE socket one size down (bigger than the next metric one size down). If SAE do the same only with a metric socket.

You then get to actually hammer the socket onto the bolt and hopefully get it out of there. Not pleasant, but possible.

If the edges are just rounded you can also try and see if you can get an impact socket to use. These are usually much tighter fitting than a regular socket. It will take some hammering to get it over the rounded edges, but impact sockets are much better at applying the force to the face of the bolts instead of the corners.

In the one very extreme case I used a large set of vice-grips and a small pipe over them for leverage. The design of the tool is such that as you apply force it tightens (you can also use a small pipe wrench).

All these methods trash the bolt head (of course) and require a bit of patience when you are doing it.

Good luck.

Thanks for the suggestions. I've already tried a 1/2" socket (which is the next SAE size down from 13mm and it just rounded it even more. The head of the bolt is almost round, literally. I've never seen corners so sheared before. I'll try the impact wrench route however...see how well that does. I wish i had a welder...I'd be able to weld a new bolt to the top of the head bolt and use it to try to get it loose.

Thx for the reply

okay...so this is a bit late....BUT....for the future....obtain a set of 6 POINT SOCKETS....they look just like the nut....I would be willing to bet the socket you broke was a 12 point.....I have NEVER EVER seen a nut/bolt round off using a 6 point socket...and I have been mechanicing for 30 years....both as a hobby and professionally.....I have twisted the head off....but not rounded one.

quality tools would help too.

:{D

I did not think to put that in my reply... good point Sir Nuke!

If there's enough room around the bolt, try cutting the bolt head off with a Dremel tool and a fiber-reinforced cutoff wheel. You may not be able to cut it off flush with the cylinder head, but if you cut it off really close, you should be able to chip the remaining bolt head away with a chisel. Once the bolt head is gone, lift the head off; the shaft of the bolt should be easy to twist out with a pair of pliers because the tension on the bolt has been released. If it's rusted into the block (possible if you've got a blown head gasket) use the biggest pair of Vice-Grips you can find. :D

Good luck! :D

Nuke, you hit it right on the money..i did use a 12 point....and i realized I shouldn't have afterwards, heh.

I finally got the bolt out. I borrowed a friends impact wrech and put a 1/2" (it WAS a 13mm bolt) socket on that and finally go it out, but just barely.

If you were taking your head bolts off and go to one that was not loosend from the beginning then I am gonna say you have a warped head now.
That's what the loosening and tightenting sequences are for. Get the head checked. Aluminum does wonders when not taken apart correctly.

I'm not at all worried about the head. I bought the motor for the short block only....it had a factory Ford head on it which will , with my luck, probably drop another valve seat 2000 miles later. I already have a rebuilt head ready to go on the motor. (if anyone's wondering, i'm trying to fix the Escort mentioned in my sig...the car the that P5 replaced, heh)

Can't get any better than Craftsman tools, especially since they replaced the busted one's free of charge. Twas my fault for using a 12-point on a high torque application...DOH

a couple of different brands will replace damged tools for free.

Most of my stuff is Cratfsman because of the convenience of the local Sears. But Husky (not great, but decent for the price) I can get at Home Depot and they will also replace (I am told). And of course as mentioned by TheMAN Snap-On also replaces stuff... I just need to find out where to find the dude in the truck :) Snap-on tools in my inventory are limited to some impact stuff (don't have an air impact wrench yet, just the sockets are a good tight fit and have a thicker wall) and some 3/4 drive things (like a 36" breaker bar and the 3/4 to 1/2 drive adapter so that I can use it on real stubborn bolts... specifially lug bolts on a 73 truck that I work on every now and then).

It's a Ford 1.9L out of an Escort. Yeah, I know, I posted on the Mazda board, but the bunch of ricers on the (un-named) Escort board wouldn't have a clue as to an anser.



I have a Home Depot not 60 seconds from my house. Husky brand isn't bad at all..at least they stay shiney, heh (who cares). Yes, I'm pretty sure they have a lifetime warrantee.

My experience with snap on is that they can be relatively expensive. I don't see paying the extra money for 'em when i can go to Sears and get a tool for less while still having the same replacment warrantee :).