Changing spark plugs
 

Its about time I change these damed things.

Now I bought some of the NGK V powers they come gaped at .044 but the FSM wants it to be between .04 and .043. Do I need to gap these, or can I just throw them into the car. NGK recomends it gapped but what do they know.

Further more does anyone know what I should be torqueing these down to.
An err how do I get the rubber boot off the plug it seems to kind of be really attatched, should I just pull really hard.

Any tips?

yeah, the rubber boot can get touch, just pull it straight up. a slight twist would help too, but not too much.
Not sure about gapping. Sounds close enough to be dropped in straight, 1/100 on an inch may not make a big difference.

The gap is fine; .001" will not make a difference. Make sure you use spark plug anti-seize (such as Permatex brand) on the threads before you install the new plugs. Also, coat the inside of the spark plug boots with dielectric grease before attaching the plug wires. This will help prevent difficult removal and possible tearing of the boots on your next spark plug replacement.

The FSM specifies a tightening torque of 11-16 ft/lbs (15-22 N/m) for the spark plugs.

Good luck with your installation.

Re: Plug Gap
 

I had previously been running a gap of .042. The mpg was usually 25.
I just set the new platinum @ .044. The mpg went to 27+. It looks like .044 is okay for my stock '02 LX automatic. Draw your own conclusions from these numbers. BTW, minimum of highway driving. Mostly around town and between the towns type driving.

Good luck with the new set. Let us know how you make out.

I too had trouble with the boots 'catching' on the way up-n-out. Persistance pays off. They're only rubber (plastic!) after all.

Boots come off easier when they're hot.

Warning: DO NOT Change Plugs When Engine Block Is Warm!
 

DON'T try to change the spark plugs when the engine block is warm. The aluminum head tends to lose the threads when removing the plugs. I always let the car sit overnight & change the plugs first thing in the morning.

I saw this happen in a second gen 323. A friend's kid thought he was doing her a favor changing the plugs... A thread insert kit helped it get back on the road, but believe me you don't want to go this route unless you have to...

OK so I changed the plugs, very easy exept for getting the plug wire off cylinder 1 ( I thought I was gonna break it). Are these supposed to snap into place because only the plug things snapped the distributor ones just kind of sat on top.

I was alittle curious so I checked online to see if the engine was running properly by checking the old plugs.
There down to being normal and healthy or lead fouled.

The color is a nice tan, although it is turning green before my eyes. The electrode looks fine but the ceramic below the electrode which should be white is pink and has blotches of red. Is this common for our cars.